Dec Banger meet.... Christmas on all four

Take the vaporiser plate off and make up a flange for a header pipe would be cool.

 

Just picked up a Mallory distributor from a Model A engine used for a Gleaner combine (?)- any ideas on where to find parts for a rebuild/switch it over to dual point?

 

You gonna run that on your Chevy? Or are you switching over to the dark side, Mac?

-Dave

 

I'm hoping to modify it... and stay in the light, Dave

 

Guys, wish me luck - on Aussie ebay at present there is a complete early A ?AR chassis that I'm bidding on. it ran last year. i will drop my coupe body on it and off I go.

Juice brakes, dropped axle and T 5 later.

 

Looks like a great start and a good price, hope you get it
Brendan

 

Take a look at the cast drums and full floaters. I just rode and drove a '29 with them in it. They are amazing!

Ron

 

I run ' 32 front brakes and Ted's floaters on my '30 two door. Works so well that I haven't yet bothered to install the rear floaters.

No reason at all to go hydraulic. You have to adjust mechanicals more often, but on a car that is not driven high annual mileage- it isn't that often Never had a car with mechanicals that had leaking problems--even with once a year use

Granted, when I drove an A as a regular driver 50 years ago, I converted them to hydraulics. Back then, working with junkyard parts, and hard linings meant for juice brakes, stopping was a major problem. Now that we understand what is important to get mechanicals to work properly- the problem is solved.

Herb

 

I have a couple early Malory distributors that I won't ever use.

PM me for info.

Herb

 

'zat me you're talking to Herb???

PM sent

 

You don't think single points on a mallory aren't enough of a problem??

 

NAPA Has the cap in their user's guide

My copy is in Poland sorry

 

Ok guys I have a question for you.
Where do I hook up the power wire to my B dist.
I looked in my books and it only talks about the A

As always thanks

 

Bluto, do you remember what number they had the cap under?

 

I am thinking the power wire is here

 

"Bluto, do you remember what number they had the cap under?"


No I don't keep part numbers in my head for things I will NEVER use

Go to NAPA and get a users guide. It's even got photos.

NAPA has several guides like this ....... they are free and everyone building stuff should have a set of these guides.

There are folks on Egay selling NAPA stuff out of these guides as NOS!!

 

Same screw as the condenser in the photo.

 

Thanks Bill

 

I just thought I'd inform you guys that I won the Auction on fleebay so I will be busy in 2012 getting my coupe on the road as a "stocker", then as finances allow, it will receive some hopping up. Juice brakes, dropped axle and a Jeep T5.

I needed something to motivate me to work on the coupe

 

I've been checking in on the banger meets for a while but this is my first post. Working on a model b with 2, 81 carbs. To any of you guys with 81's on your banger my question is, what size jets are you running?

 

I am curious as to how you fit rhe "T" radiator to the "A" front crossmember. I'm planing to start a t speedster on an "A" frame in the spring. Trying to get some of the parts lined up before it gets warm.

Thanks
Jerry

 

Hi Jerry - the radiator is a special build. Model A bottom tank, T top tank with a scallop out to miss the fan and an offset top hose. The bottom plate is wider than the A one to match the T grill shell. I re-drilled the front cross member to suit. I'll try and sort out some pictures maybe tomorrow - I'm having a go at making a 4-piece hood.

 

Mark... nice chassis!


Finally!!!!!

 

At last a Dodge Bros. update. After only 11 months and better than $1100 I have timing gears.

 

I like the holes. I put holes in my alum. gear. But its a ford and I only paid $50
Did they come with Straight cut gears?
How many sets did you get for your $1100

 

Hi Rich: Here is a Morton & Brett flyer for Dodge.

Gary in MN

 

Congrats Mark, Stay focussed. This should be a fun build for you.

 

Nice Morton & Brett ad. Thanks. The Dodge Bros, gears were Hypoid. But no longer fit after line boring the Dodge block. So that meant three new gears for the new centers. I will agree that $1300 is way high compared to what I paid for my Plymouth cam gear. And 11 months is so long to wait if I was the gear cutter I wouldn't have the balls to charge at all. But I did hear some interesting excuses. I don't want to bad mouth Dan publicly. So anybody who wants to know the name of someone I would never consider for any thing I needed, PM me.

 

At shop rate today. That is not a bad price for one off gears. My bosses would have been a lot more. A lot faster but a lot more money.
Did you move the crank to make room for more stroke or less? Is your cam centerline in the same spot?

 

I asked my local NAPA store about the guides....I dunno was the answer...any part number or suggestion?