The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bluto, Dec 1, 2011.
OK Here is:
Here is the banger link list .
For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:
Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:
Banger basics. another info link list:
Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
Model B rod bearing insert numbers
Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
Adjusting dual Strombergs:
Helpful Model A tools and tips:
Elrod's stuck head tech:
Model A generator to alternator conversion:
Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
Chevy Banger Stuff
Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.
If anyone knows of more, please post them.
thank you jim !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! .... steve
Dont mean to hijack.
Just putting this out there I have several Ford Model A transmissions, pressure plates, clutch disc, rear end parts, Lots of pistons A557 castings and more over size bores,NOS piston rings, A rods, crankshafts, intake and exhaust manifolds. If anyone is needing any of this stuff PM Me. Also have alot of A bone brake parts
Please put an ad in parts also
28 deg. This morning but I still jumped in the A and took the long way to work (30 miles out of the way) and went to A&L and picked up a pile of intake gaskets. Now with a little luck I can get some time to work on the Tudor
Was going to post this in the week but thought I'd wait till December in case I did something else. Turns out I didn't. A little progress since August... So - when am I going to start it? Last Sunday it seems... Doesn't look too much different but here y'go. Had to make some special washers to suit this mismatched pair of manifolds.
Jury rigged an ignition switch on, fitted an SU electric fuel pump which still needs a spot of adjustment to the points to make it work continuously. Fired up almost instantly. Ran like a bag of crap. Knackered condenser and a mile wide points diagnosed. Still running badly - reckon that'll improve once the rust is off the valve seats. Probably. So - time to drive it out of the garage? Nope. Stuck clutch.
Still, fading light, cleared the drive and went for a quick charge down the road. Clutch freed off and driven back in the garage. Still popping and banging, big backfire when I turned it off (yup - checked the timing...) but - Brilliant!!!!!
Ultimately the running won't be a problem as I'll probably swap the diamond B from the Fordor in there until I've rebuilt my spare one.
Need to make a hood next - about 3-1/2" longer than a stock T one. Then lower it, fit some shocks. I run hens teth '39 shocks on the front of the Fordor and MGB ones on the rear and would like to find something similar for this. Then one last test drive before stripping the tub back off for some rot removal and a skim of paint. Need to get a wiggle on as I'm booked to take the singer in our band to his wedding in the spring.
MB, looks pretty good the way it is to me.
Keen. It looks like a '26 Mercury might have.
This is one of the best threads. Thanks for posting the link.
I still have the rock I used to keep the SU pump working on my 140 Jag, if you would like it let me know, Pat
I think that is a "bitchen" car .
WOW! I need to vist here more often, what a great looking car! You've combined some of the nicest parts Henry ever produced and put them in one great looking package.
Cheers Pat - I've mounted it inside the firewall within kickin' distance just like I did on my T-modified...
Well December is for Christmas and Christmas came early for me! So, with a 6:1 Snyder head what carburetion do y'all like?
monkeybiker, that car is bitchin'!
Took the A to a small indoor swap meet today
On the way home I pushed on the little banger a little and got a new top speed. I was about 45 mins from home at that time I am very glade every thing stayed in the oil pan.
27 mph more and I will be happy
I need a OD
Equal parts more money & heat will get you there! With 28" tire & 3.78 gear that is only 4,600 rpm. A pressure oil system would be nice. Pat
Great car monkey biker! Cheers!
Just got the engine and gearbox installed in my chassis. I already had the gearbox mounted but decided i needed the engine in too, so i had to pull half the chassis apart and put it back together.
My dilemma was that the original setup with the gearbox mounts is quite frankly, a fucking pain in the ass. For whatever stupid reason, the stock gearbox mounts are about 2.5mm too long on each, equating to one side will go down into the mount and the other is 5mm too far out. I had to cut 4mm out of one mount and re weld it and even then it wasn't a nice slide in fit.
I'm contemplating fabricating my own rear mounts using the same basic plate and holes on each end, just a cooler looking middle piece and making each about 3mm shorter so the engine and box just drops in nicely instead of having to belt the shit out of it to get it to fit.
I am aware of frame spreaders and all that, but my chassis is boxed, and reinforced with a fabbed K member and it doesn't exactly want to spread. It shouldn't have to either.
What do you fellas do when it comes to all this??
I get the equal parts and the more money but what do you mean by HEAT
this is a very low buck engine the head cost more them the hole engine even with the new cam and lifters
the rear tires are 750-16 I think they are 30.5 tall now
does any one know what the max RPM a B cam will do (I made .312 spacers for the springs)
Not that this engine is going to do 100 mph but it would be fun to see if I can get the Max out of it
I don't think it has much left. It held 70-71 for about a 1/2 mile and then I gave it one last try from 67 to 73 then it was time to get off the high way
I should have printed: equal parts of more money & heat. heat, as in more heat in the chamber makes more pressure which makes more torque & hp. heres a scan of George Riley's book from 1931. Pat
I'll try the scan again, Pat
If you run an Alloy cylinder head you loose heat faster than iron.
The trick is to pour ''Irontite'' into the casting let it sit and pour it out .... do this over and over. Each time the ''Irontite'' will deposit a layer inside
This trick insulates the head so it retains more heat.
It is basically a low cost more HP trick.
Your talking about the water jacket, not the combustion chamber right bluto?
Blank off all the water out/inlets and fill the head thru one only
A piece of metal or wood clamped in place will work OK
Water pump hole works fine Stand the head on end
I went to look at a 1927 Model T tonight and saw this. He's had the car for around 12 years, but has never tried to run it. He said the motor was all redone with new babbit when he bought it.
I don't know alot about Model T's, but I'm learning!
Cool stuff there for a relativity stock T. It should run as is, but you will need to pressurize the tank to run after the tank is less then about half full.
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