Register now to get rid of these ads!

Dec Banger meet.... Christmas on all four

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bluto, Dec 1, 2011.

  1. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    OK Here is:
     
  2. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,134

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Thanks Jim,


    Here is the banger link list .


    For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

    Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



    Banger basics. another info link list:

    http://www.fordgarage.com/

    http://www.billsbangers.com

    http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

    Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

    Model B rod bearing insert numbers
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


    Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
    http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

    Adjusting dual Strombergs:
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

    Helpful Model A tools and tips:

    http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

    Elrod's stuck head tech:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

    Model A generator to alternator conversion:

    http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

    Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

    http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


    Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

    Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

    http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


    Chevy Banger Stuff

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

    Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

    Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

    If anyone knows of more, please post them.
     
  3. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,925

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    thank you jim !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! .... steve
     
  4. bab59
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 564

    bab59
    Member

    Dont mean to hijack.
    Just putting this out there I have several Ford Model A transmissions, pressure plates, clutch disc, rear end parts, Lots of pistons A557 castings and more over size bores,NOS piston rings, A rods, crankshafts, intake and exhaust manifolds. If anyone is needing any of this stuff PM Me. Also have alot of A bone brake parts
     
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Please put an ad in parts also :)
     
  6. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,592

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    28 deg. This morning but I still jumped in the A and took the long way to work (30 miles out of the way) and went to A&L and picked up a pile of intake gaskets. Now with a little luck I can get some time to work on the Tudor
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Was going to post this in the week but thought I'd wait till December in case I did something else. Turns out I didn't. A little progress since August... So - when am I going to start it? Last Sunday it seems... Doesn't look too much different but here y'go. Had to make some special washers to suit this mismatched pair of manifolds.

    [​IMG]

    Jury rigged an ignition switch on, fitted an SU electric fuel pump which still needs a spot of adjustment to the points to make it work continuously. Fired up almost instantly. Ran like a bag of crap. Knackered condenser and a mile wide points diagnosed. Still running badly - reckon that'll improve once the rust is off the valve seats. Probably. So - time to drive it out of the garage? Nope. Stuck clutch.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Still, fading light, cleared the drive and went for a quick charge down the road. Clutch freed off and driven back in the garage. Still popping and banging, big backfire when I turned it off (yup - checked the timing...) but - Brilliant!!!!!

    Ultimately the running won't be a problem as I'll probably swap the diamond B from the Fordor in there until I've rebuilt my spare one.

    Need to make a hood next - about 3-1/2" longer than a stock T one. Then lower it, fit some shocks. I run hens teth '39 shocks on the front of the Fordor and MGB ones on the rear and would like to find something similar for this. Then one last test drive before stripping the tub back off for some rot removal and a skim of paint. Need to get a wiggle on as I'm booked to take the singer in our band to his wedding in the spring.
     
  8. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 6,978

    noboD
    Member

    MB, looks pretty good the way it is to me.
     
  9. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,662

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Keen. It looks like a '26 Mercury might have.

    -Dave
     
  10. This is one of the best threads. Thanks for posting the link.
     
  11. BHT8BALL
    Joined: Aug 22, 2010
    Posts: 262

    BHT8BALL
    Member

    I still have the rock I used to keep the SU pump working on my 140 Jag, if you would like it let me know, Pat
     
  12. I think that is a "bitchen" car .
     
  13. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,283

    The37Kid
    Member

    WOW! I need to vist here more often, what a great looking car! You've combined some of the nicest parts Henry ever produced and put them in one great looking package. [​IMG]
     
  14. Cheers Pat - I've mounted it inside the firewall within kickin' distance just like I did on my T-modified...
     
  15. Well December is for Christmas and Christmas came early for me! So, with a 6:1 Snyder head what carburetion do y'all like?
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Bodger45
    Joined: Jun 25, 2009
    Posts: 371

    Bodger45
    Member

    monkeybiker, that car is bitchin'!
     
  17. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,592

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Took the A to a small indoor swap meet today
    On the way home I pushed on the little banger a little and got a new top speed. I was about 45 mins from home at that time I am very glade every thing stayed in the oil pan.

    27 mph more and I will be happy
    I need a OD
     

    Attached Files:

  18. BHT8BALL
    Joined: Aug 22, 2010
    Posts: 262

    BHT8BALL
    Member

    Equal parts more money & heat will get you there! With 28" tire & 3.78 gear that is only 4,600 rpm. A pressure oil system would be nice. Pat
     
  19. Great car monkey biker! Cheers!
     
  20. Guys,

    Just got the engine and gearbox installed in my chassis. I already had the gearbox mounted but decided i needed the engine in too, so i had to pull half the chassis apart and put it back together.

    My dilemma was that the original setup with the gearbox mounts is quite frankly, a fucking pain in the ass. For whatever stupid reason, the stock gearbox mounts are about 2.5mm too long on each, equating to one side will go down into the mount and the other is 5mm too far out. I had to cut 4mm out of one mount and re weld it and even then it wasn't a nice slide in fit.

    I'm contemplating fabricating my own rear mounts using the same basic plate and holes on each end, just a cooler looking middle piece and making each about 3mm shorter so the engine and box just drops in nicely instead of having to belt the shit out of it to get it to fit.

    I am aware of frame spreaders and all that, but my chassis is boxed, and reinforced with a fabbed K member and it doesn't exactly want to spread. It shouldn't have to either.

    What do you fellas do when it comes to all this??
     
  21. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,592

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    I get the equal parts and the more money but what do you mean by HEAT

    :D this is a very low buck engine the head cost more them the hole engine even with the new cam and lifters
    the rear tires are 750-16 I think they are 30.5 tall now

    does any one know what the max RPM a B cam will do (I made .312 spacers for the springs)
    Not that this engine is going to do 100 mph but it would be fun to see if I can get the Max out of it

    I don't think it has much left. It held 70-71 for about a 1/2 mile and then I gave it one last try from 67 to 73 then it was time to get off the high way
     
  22. BHT8BALL
    Joined: Aug 22, 2010
    Posts: 262

    BHT8BALL
    Member

    I should have printed: equal parts of more money & heat. heat, as in more heat in the chamber makes more pressure which makes more torque & hp. heres a scan of George Riley's book from 1931. Pat
     
  23. BHT8BALL
    Joined: Aug 22, 2010
    Posts: 262

    BHT8BALL
    Member

    I'll try the scan again, Pat
     

    Attached Files:

  24. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,592

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Thanks Pat...
     
  25. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    About heat........

    If you run an Alloy cylinder head you loose heat faster than iron.

    The trick is to pour ''Irontite'' into the casting let it sit and pour it out .... do this over and over. Each time the ''Irontite'' will deposit a layer inside
    This trick insulates the head so it retains more heat.

    It is basically a low cost more HP trick. :)
     
  26. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,134

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Your talking about the water jacket, not the combustion chamber right bluto? :D
     
  27. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Yes

    Blank off all the water out/inlets and fill the head thru one only

    A piece of metal or wood clamped in place will work OK

    Water pump hole works fine Stand the head on end
     
  28. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,592

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    This stuff
     

    Attached Files:

  29. I went to look at a 1927 Model T tonight and saw this. He's had the car for around 12 years, but has never tried to run it. He said the motor was all redone with new babbit when he bought it.

    I don't know alot about Model T's, but I'm learning!
     

    Attached Files:

  30. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,134

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Cool stuff there for a relativity stock T. It should run as is, but you will need to pressurize the tank to run after the tank is less then about half full.


    .
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2011

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.