This is secluded to be started in the fall just gathering parts for now Went to Wisconsin to buy the body ones with no rust through, solid metal and not all banged up are getting hard to find I ordered a 4" drop axle kit with new split wish bones from Speedway Motors cheep and easy and all new parts $649. Will be running Buick Aluminum drums up fount and possible on the rear. currently looking for these. Have a 9" Ford rear end but looking a Winter nostalgia V-8 Quick-Change from speedway just don't know about the $3100 price tag. I do not want a run of the mill engine set up (small block Chevy ,302 Ford, Flathead Ford, Chry Hemi etc. ) I have a 292 Chevy 6 with: Offenhauser 3 carb intake , finned valve cover and side cover. Propane pistons (higher compression) and lump ported head. or I have a lead on a early 346 Cadillac Flathead V-8 with 3 speed LaSalle trans. Have not decide on the frame rails yet stock model A, 32 Ford , or 2X4 tubing ( would need the extra length for the six ) I do not think I will chop it Will lose the fenders and running boards Defiantly get lowered And will probably keep the fabric top Rims thinking about a set of wires ? Truck arm rear suspension ? Still floating ideals around in my head
just see them out there If you go to a larger show 150 plus cars you usaley see a couple of both around, I will agree not near as many as small block Chevy's but still 2 or 3 of each. Also seen lots in Magazines. I have see a couple with Buick straight 8s and know of 2 with Cummins diesel and several flat head Ford 4 cly I am just looking for a motor that is deferent cant remember seeing any with full dressed Chevy 6, Ford Flathead 6 or V-8 flat head Cadillac ( have seen several OHV Cadillac's thought)
Seems nuts live in Texas and drive all the way to Wisconsin to find a car in my price range not rusted out All I could find in north Texas were $4000-6000 rust buckets missing most of the interior trim or hacked to death. This one is all there including most of the wood (it will need to be replaced but still there) never cut on and solid metal, 4 new Vintec wheels with caps and 9" rear end for $2800 While I was there I also picked up a like new Consew 226 walking foot sewing machine for $300 around here they ask $600 for worn out junk I know I have been looking for a year. and 2 f-1 axles 1 complete 1 just the axle $40 for both looks like I will be shopping up there again
Gathering parts so far 4"drop axle, drop spring, new spindles, new split bones, and steering arms. Wanted 45 fine Buick drums Wow are thy getting pricy so will use 90 fin found 2 new ones and 4 old so CHEEP so will have 90 fin drums fount and rear. (I like the look of the Watson backing plates and if I find some 45 fin drums priced right will splurge and go that way) can always sell the 90 fin kits. But for now hubs are cut for drums and backing plates are 40 model? and when bolted up to spindles all clears and turns right just need to figure out which shoes and wheel cylinder to use to make self energize and self adjusting. Motor choice is still up in the air: Had a flat head Cadillac v8 located but found a bad crack in block so still not sure where to go for the drive train 1:I have a 355 Chevy that rebuilt TRW forged pistons, Howard cam kit the good heads, roller rockers, finned valve covers, oil pan, timing cover and air cleaner looks great and would run great to, and setting on stand ready to go, this would be the quickest and easiest all ready built (was going to put in my 53 Ford but it got a 500 Cadillac instead) and a 700r4 trans. 2: A full dressed 292 Chevy 6 cylinder 3-1 barrels Fenton valve cover and side cover, Howard cam kit, propane pistons (higher compression the stock dished type) lump ported milled head just need to bore block and assemble. would require extending the frame (more work but a different look) 3: A HEMI would be nice but would have to start from scratch for that and a ton of money. 4: A Nail Head would be nice also but would have to start from scratch for that and a ton of money to. 5: also have a very low mile 318 dodge which makes no sense Right now I am looking for a good wood kit for the car! I see that will be another $600 down the drain.
well looks like it will be a 331 hemi going on road trip Wednesday to get it if nothing happens More then I wanted to pay but all new parts and good quality Ross pistons, cran cam and a lot of hotheads parts :intake, timing cover for chev pump, headers, adapter gear reduction starter ect. machine work is done .
well the hemi is here pickup in Greenville GA. yea! Also picked up a frame in Fredericksburg, VA from a H.A.M.B. (ClutchDumpinDan) thanks again
Well picked up a 331 Hemi kit $2700 Here is what I got Most part were bought through Hot Heads A short bell housing 331 Industrial engine ser # IND-24-21883. The block had $856.69 worth of work done: magna fluxed, lined honed mains, square decked the block then bored 0.030 over tanked and cam bearings installed. Was in a 54 Chrysler Crankshaft # 1409421 was Maga fluxed oil hole chamfered and polished Pistons are Ross Pistons JC129285 10.0 to 1 bore 3.843 dome height .332 net dome .36 Rods # 132422/308DF47 were resized and new bushing installed They reused old rod bolt I will install new ARP bolts (should not throw the balance off) The bottom end was balanced The heads are #14868331 they were magna fluxed new hard seats installed valve job done 2 valves were replaced I will do a mild port job, port match the heads install new stainless valves and do a 3 angel valve job. Rocker arm shafts rebuilt New Rockers and Shafts Rings are Grant C2339.30 Main bearing from King MB5217AM /916M std Rod bearings brand unknown MOR354 std Cam kit is a Iskenderian 300171 Hyd. complete Cam, Springs, Keepers, lifters 270 Megacam Set of adjustable push rods # 21053.5 Hot Head timing cover set up for Chevy. water pump Timing chain and gears are Melling Select roller #40202 new balancer 3 TF-07-08 Weiand aluminum water pump Billet crank and water pump pulley Billet alt bracket High volume dodge 340 oil pump and screen with Hot Heads oil pump adapter Hot heads oil filter adapter Hot Head oil bypass piston Hot Head dip stick Taylor plug wires #75089 Hot Head 727 Torquflight Transmission adapter ,flywheel, and gear reduction starter. MSD Distributor # MSD8381 and blaster 2 coil MSD8203 Hot Heads 4 barrel Aluminum intake manifold Holley 4160C (600CFM) will replace with 750 or log type setup A set of block huger headers Stainless steal bolt kit Edelbrock 14"air filter #BK7353554 Parts I need to buy Head bolt or stud kit Main bolt or stud kit Rod bolts 16 stainless valves master gasket kit Oil pan Cam thrust plate and bolts so should have a properly rebuilt Hemi for under $4000. you can build 3 nice small block Chevy's for that but looks cost
Also picked up a frame for the SDN in Fredericksburg, VA from fellow H.A.M.B. it included the frame and complete front axel 4"drop disk brake from hub to hub and 4 lic and spring shocks I will be using split bones and Buick drums what ever is left will be used on the RPU Rat Rod opps cant say that here
It's probably too late, but it'd be awesome if you keep the fenders on it! Regardless, good luck with your project. Malcolm
It is a long term project and buy the time I get around to the act build It could wind up looking completely stock on the out side At present fender less would be easer but not getting ride of any parts because thing's change
still gathering parts got some 40 finned drums last year and now some Wilson finned aluminum backing plates to match the drums also picked up a Edmond 2x4 intake with the thermoset housing built in to it looks like new old stock rebuilt a 47rh dodge automatic with over drive about all I need yet is a Quick-change rear end (that's $3500) and I am looking for a set or PSI rear radius rods may have to use 36 ford or build a set from scratch hopefully it will get built this fall. Right now doing a 59 ford custom 300 for the summer
Got tired of seeing part lining around and do not really have the time right now, but thought I would start putting together the front axle before I lost some of the parts Drilled the Axle with 1" bit 16 holes , smoothed it up some and shot it Red and Black for now. I thought about taking the Axle, Bones, spindles and steering arm out and have them powder coated chrome ( cost prohibitive to do actual chrome.) not sure of the Red and Black. might look better with a pine strip to separate the 2 colors.
I cam across these """1932 Ford Stamped Frame Rails chassis model hot rod flathead traditional coupe NEW DIE LETS US STAMP 7 GAUGE STEEL W PERFECT FLAT TOP""" and at the price $479 total shipped to the house (EBay #272437332853) and could not pass them up. How bad can they be??? I figured at $479 I would give it a shot. So I guise the A is going on 32 rails, instead of the A frame I got a copal years ago (its now for sale) and if nothing else I can use the Model A frame under the RPU. The sedan with the hemi will look better on 32 rail anyway. hopefully I will find the rest of the parts before Christmas so I can get going on it.
Rails made it in still cant believe $479 for the with the shipping, They do not look half bad. Finley found an oil pan for the 331 hemi more then I wanted to pay $276 but it is a nos PAW pan so cant complain. Guise over Christmas I will get the Hemi assembled, I have trial fit everything and check clearances just need to do the heads clean everything up and pu it back to gather the last time.
gearheadqce: what price ? looking for a set up with ford bells preferable 1940 with the spring hanger intake
Just like your underwear, "It Depends". With that Hemi you are going to want the Champ size center section. We can adapt '40 trumpets to that but would have to shorten them up, or it will probably be too wide. It can be done using the original forgings but would be less expensive to use aftermarket brackets. PM me and I can work up a price for you.
Mocked up the engine and checked the clearances. So now I can start the assemble. started by washing the block and running bottle brush in all the galleys one more time. Crank polished up standard and chamfered the holes. I am assembling it with Lucas assemble lube also installed the oil bypass from Hot Heads Will be filling the 3.870 bores with ross 10.5 to 1 forged pistons . The rods had ARP rod bolts installed and the small end got new bushing big end was resized. Complete rotating assembly has been balanced,and held in place with ARP main bolts from TR Walters. Cam kit is a Iskenderian 300171 Hyd. complete Cam, Springs, Keepers, lifters 270 Megacam. Also got the brass thrust plate from Hot Heads Heads will be held down with ARP head studs, dam popups look great compared to the 7.5 to 1 flat tops from the factory Installed race duty swirl polished stainless steel valves 1.75 exhaust and 2.0 intake . replace the exhaust seat with hardened ones mild port work got as far as bolting the heads on with felpro gaskets have to stop here till the pan and timing gasket get here installed a Melling Select roller #40202 timing chain and degreed it. shot some color on it decided on red like I used on the front axle Friday I will see if I can finish it up
Got a little more done seam 1 step forward 10 back finely found the oil ??slinger?? that went under the timing chain so I could finish the front cover FYI the timing marks point at each other ( cam gear down and crank gear up) in this position you are on #6 cly point the cam gear dot and your on #1 Put timing cover on the last time ,pressed the new balancer on Double check the rod and main bolt torque 1 more time. There have been comments about the 340 oil pumps Poor fight , some had bolts fall out some had bolts sheering off so went to grade 8 bolts with lock washer and also used Loctite. Small Block Chevrolet water pump some billet pulleys (yuck) alt bracket and GM 70 amp alternator using what cam with the engine for now and a fl1a oil filter here is an example of 1 step forward and 10 back I went with a set of Hot Heads Stainless steel freeze plugs they seal with O-rings problem is they wont seat because the inter ledge of the block is to big. I used a sharpie with the tip cut down to give a reference on how fare to grind Make sure all hole in block are plugged exhaust intake oil passages ect it is a pain to get it as round as possible do not take off any more then needed the seal sets here and do not drop this pc in the block it is not magnetic and is a pain to get back out 3 hr of my life lost because I had it a little to lose when installing it freeze plugs look good when done at a cost of $90 I think thy are worth it time will tell. I have tried the brass type that tighten with a nut did not like the way they sealed. Right side of the block is done I think the header will have to go to close to the bulge on the oil pan Next problem is the PCV valve I am trying to decide weather to use the stock valley pan it has a baffle , a fill tube (that would need to be turned to clear the intake ) and a hole at the rear for the PCV valve Or cut the top off the stock valley pan and use the bottom under the finned one I have from O-brian and add a PCV hole in it. Also adjusted the Valve Lifter preload. The balancer is marked every 90 Deg so that helped put on #1 (dot on cam chain up) adjusted lifter preload intake and exhaust #1 tightened 1 and 1/2 turns about .050-.060. Turned crank 90 Deg clock wise and done #8 the same way. Then same thing for the rest #4-3-6-5-7-2 just like small block chevy
some things have changed it’s getting a Y-Block with Manuel 3 speed overdrive but it still getting done. You can see all the info on Facebook at river oaks Gearheads Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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