Projects Dagel's 29 Model A SDN from junk and castoffs

So I don't screw it up the brass collard pc in the gas tank does it screw in. If so right hand or left Han treads???

 

Yes it screws in, right hand threads. There is a wrench that fits it but CAREFUL channel locks will remove it as well.
The inner 8 pointed piece unscrews from the outer. It holds the glass and a seal you'll need to replace.

 

Thanks

 

WOW looks like a killer project. You have also given me hope to try and start my RPU project.

 

Nothing done to day spent the morning cleaning 2 work bench I haven't seen the top of the white one for about 10 years



The metal one I saw last year LOL

 

I'm kicking around the ideal of anchoring the frount spring to the wish bone . The ones I got from speedway have a hole for just that.
If I put the cross member for the spring in the stock location it would increase the wheel base by about 4" not a problem. And drop it another 3-4".

The frame will be stretched from fire wall to radiator also for engine clearance (running a Y-Block) and want a metal fan blade not an electric fan.

So what to do about a stearing box .
Cowl mount? Vega? Corvare?

 

Nice job on the front of the frame, exactly what I did, I welded a piece of pipe to form a nice rounded end. Everything else looks awesome, have fun.

 

Jonnymac1 like the shock/headlight mount.the rest of the fram looks great to

 

So now the decision start.
I have 3front cross member to chose from.
The closest come with a set of 32 rails that go under a 28sdn I plan to start next year.
The middle one was bought for a rat rod.
The black one is a speedway model A cross members that I don't remember buying.
I am leaning to the 1that came with the 32 rails but then I have to order another one next year

 

I have a 22 foot long frame table I could use but it is stored above the paint room.



And a model a frame is not rocket science. It just needs to be square and level. If you wanted it could be done anywhere you could clamp it down so it does not twist and warp. Me being the lazy person I am decided to do it clamped the my walker muffler lift made in the 1930 seams only fit



The trick is Everthing must be level I put stands under the lift and shined till level




I scribe lines in 3 spots frount edge of cross member .
I use a thin cut off blade to do this no deaper then1/6" just enough that you don't mistake it for scratches.

On this frame it was 10.5" to frount edge of spring cross member.
next line is edge of fire wall 47.5"
and last one rear of cab 95.5" all from frount fram horn.
This also gives me fixed points to square the frame.



Chech for level in every possible direction



Repeat check level and square. Over and over the closer you are the better it will be. It took 5he to get it square and level.

 

I don't have the sub frame for the body and plans are to stretch the cab anyway I decided to do a parral lader frame



It will be 26" wide.

 

Added 5 set positive caster to the front spring cross members. Everthing is level and square will check 1 last time in the morning then weld it.

 

the gas gauge wrench pictured above is the outer, there is a wrench with a star shape on the outside...
that is the wrench that fits inside the star shaped fitting... memory says you need both... be very careful as everything strips easy, brass fitting and the aluminum wrenches...
also, some A gas gauges have a magnifying glass lens... very handy.
I do have one out back...

 

When I get it out I will have to find a way to buff the lens. Did not know it was there and it got lightly bead blaster. Live and lurn LOL

 

Checked for square and level 1 last time and then the fun begins no changing my mind now Most important part now welded in

 

That's my 2hr for today.
Like I said in the begin of this build I would do 2hr Mon-Fri and 5hr Sat-Sun.
The frount cross members is done. Tomorrow I will set the radiator and engine assembly in place so I can get the center cross member located in the right place



I used some 2X3X3/16 tubing to make the corner gust and angelded them 5 deg just like the cross member.



Did some clean up to remove the splater.




And shot a light coat of weld through primer so it doesn't rust.

 

This goes in tomarow once I get it dug out



My $100 radiator from eBay 2 years ago



The completely rebuilt engine and trans. I tried up around$3800 in parts and machine work .



Hopping the .40 over 272 won't need the 3rd Stromberg carburetor I had to mortgage the house just to buy 2 of them LOL.

 

Trial fit of the Y-Block gave me the location of the center K-member. It also let me know I needed 3 more inches between the fire wall and radiator.
Now pull it back apart

 

It's been a ruff couple of days. Had to decide where to flair the frame.



Incressing the distance from the radiator to the fire wall made it interesting where the body bolts would fall thank God for a flat wall and masking tape.
Would up 10" back from the crosmember.



I don't have a full subframe the frount 15" are missing from this one. The first 3 body bolts fall in center of main rails

 

I put a Y block in a '30 tudor and had to stretch the frame 5.5", I'm sure you could get by with less but I did not want to cut the firewall. Stock type belt driven fan. My motor sits a lot lower in the frame than what you have yours sitting. looks good so far!

 

Before we had nutserts we drilled large holes and welded in nuts.

Now we install these.


You use this tool.




Drill the hole stick the nutsert in and squeeze



And now I have my cowl mounted located.

 

Go, man, go!

Rich

 

The drive shaft will wind up 4" above the frame




I believe I have room at the in side edge at the bottom to build an X-Member. At the side edge top of frame I will do the same then cut the center of the X out and join the sides with parall pc. And a drive shaft loop front and rear. This will also help support the floor.

I have run a center line check for square and level.
Only decision is to make it out of 1×3×11ga or 1×2×11ga?

 

You are ready to weld when you have at least 70% of your clamps out.



Checked everything 1 last time now install X-Member.

 

The bottom X is in and welded on 3 sides



Now doing the top X. The top one will get the center cut our and 2 loop installed for the drive shaft tunnel



It is easier to make and weld in 2 X's and make them match and then cut the top center out. Then to do the bottom one put in the loops and try to make the reast of the X match

 

That's the 2 X-Member in and welded on 3 sides. Let everything cool down and unclamp the fame in the morning and see if it's still square. If so flip it over clamp it down weld the bottom side.

Frame should be solid. No flex or twist.

 

Bottom of frame trying to keep the welding splater cleaned up as I go so it won't be a week long job in the end.


Flipped frame back over

Next get the enging and trans located cut the top X-Member. And build engine and trans mounts







If your wondering why I haven't done the rear frame yet. Well I don't know where to make the kick up if I build the body stretch as planed it would be in one place. I have not made that decision yet I may put my 2dr sedan on this frame or poss a roaster body the first 3/4 of the frame will work for any of them so I will build it out till I decide for sure

 

Got the engine mounts figure out



Cut some 3/16 plate nothing fancy just strong.



There not much to look at now but I will cap them later.



Started knocking up frount end. To anchor the spring in the bone I would have to cut the frame horns off.so for now doing it more conventional.

 

Most of you modify the ford hubs to work with the 45 fin aluminum Buick drums.
There was a kit to use the Buick drum and hub assembly with cheep easy to get berrings.
I bought 2 of the kits years ago and here is one.



The kit has 2 bushing that are a tight machine fit. I heat them with a heat gun and tap them on











A set of Wilison backing plates.



They come loaded and are self adjusting

And the 45 fin Buick drums.