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Projects Dads 32 tudor build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by FlyingRN, Nov 29, 2018.

  1. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    Finished boxing the JW frame rails today, checked to make sure that the frame rails are square and level, (they are) next will be the model A crossmember. Yeah, I know I should be using a frame jig, but I don't have one. But I do have a perfectly level garage floor (which is really annoying when I wash the floor) and I know how to read a rule and work a level. Between the frame measurements, the original frame, and the original body I'm pretty sure we'll get it right. Best part is, dad and I are having a blast together! 20190120_180005.jpeg

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  2. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    I've spent the past 4 hours on this site looking for some guidance on the Model A front cross member but haven't found what I'm looking for yet. I've seen recommendations for installing it with 5-7 degrees of caster, but what is that measured from? Is it from the bottom of the frame rails when they are level? TIA!
     
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,585

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The caster angle is from the ground to the axle. You should either know your desired rake angle, or mock it up with jack stands. I ran into the same problem as you might find. The chassis I'm working on had the A crossmember welded in (before we got the chassis) square to the chassis. But that was about 7 degrees less than I needed for my caster.

    You should probably try to tilt that crossmember back as much as possible, until the radiator mounting pads start looking goofy even.

    If you can find a car with the exact same stance as you want your car to have, measure the distance from ground to the frame and replicate that with your jack stands. Then place the crossmember and try to hit 5 degrees if possible.
     
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  4. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    That makes sense, thanks for you input!

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  5. RockyMtnWay
    Joined: Jan 6, 2015
    Posts: 106

    RockyMtnWay
    Member

    FWIW, I’ve always liked the look of a fairly level 32 frame based on the topside of the frame rails. (See avatar for example. I think the roadster has finally settled out at less than 1 degree nose down.)
    If you’re not 100% on where your ride height, tire combo, etc is gonna land, I would still suggest the model A crossmember go in with the spring seat at 7 degrees from upper frame rail.
    ***Food for thought, if you start at 7 degrees with the frame rails level, you can add some rake (up to two degrees) and your caster will still be reasonable. One to two degrees of rake on a 106” wheelbase will be lotsa rear end elevation.
    If you do the math, or be simple like me and set your frame on jack stands at level, then raise the rear to get 2 degrees of additional rake, I think you’ll see around four inches of lift. Lots ta play with.
    Cheers.
     
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  6. Following your build
     
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  7. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    I found the perfect frame jig! The factory frame along with a level and a tape measure. Works great! Thanks for JW garage for making quality parts. Just a few tweaks and it's right on the money! 20190122_180856.jpeg

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  8. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    Sure do wish someone I knew had a frame table... sure would be easier! Alas, the factory frame will have to suffice. After two days of measuring, checking, adjusting one thing (that affects seven other things,) I think I'm getting close! I'll check everything 10 more times before I set the front crossmember though! I'm sure a $10000 frame would have been easier (or maybe not) but at least I'll have the satisfaction of knowing it's square (and safe) when I'm done. 20190124_114952.jpeg

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  9. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    BTW, shoutout to RockyMtnWay for his suggestions! He's a great guy!

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  10. I've had buddies who doubled up (2) 3/4" x 4'x 8' plywood sheets to make a jig base for doing a frame. Seemed to work out good for them for what they needed.
     
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  11. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    Sad, sad day. I was going to start assembling our new 4" drop front end and when I began to unwrap my shiny chrome parts, I found these very sad freckles. Unfortunately there's a 2 week wait on a new one. Weekend goals busted! With a full fendered car, should I run a 46" or 47" front end? 20190125_155124.jpeg 20190125_155003.jpeg

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  12. johnold1938
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 404

    johnold1938
    Member
    from indiana

    there is a frame jig on eat it bay don't know what state though. YES you need to secure the perimeter before any welding or you will go one step forward and six steps BACK!!
     
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  13. johnold1938
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 404

    johnold1938
    Member
    from indiana

    I used pete & jakes I-beam axle 46 inch and the 15 inch wheel package fit great no rub!
     
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  14. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    Yes, I figured that out when I set my new frame rails on top of my originals, the new ones were a bit "thick" through the middle. I was able to get it right, but would have been a lot futher ahead if I had a frame table.... oh well, that's how we learn, right? Thanks for your suggestion, I'll do a search.

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  15. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

  16. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,229

    clem
    Member

    Nice project.
    It’s nice to be a father and son project also.

    As for all the comments about needing a frame jig; yes it would help, but I’m one who never used one, and with a bit of care, you can build a perfectly good frame without a jig.

    Keep at it !

    .
     
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  17. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 3,229

    clem
    Member

    I am curious about the axle, was it an original that you had chromed, or a new one ?
    I had similar outcome with a windscreen/windshield frame that was new.
    I had it chromed and the acid wash wasn’t cleaned off correctly, and 6 months later, same look as your axle. 2 years later it had completely rusted out, and I threw it out. At least you can save that axle if you take the chrome off it now and clean it up.
     
  18. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    This was a new axle I purchased at the Turkey Run in Daytona this past Thanksgiving. The company I purchased it from is sending me a new one. A 46" Superbell this time.

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  19. Ron Emerson
    Joined: Feb 1, 2017
    Posts: 173

    Ron Emerson

    In response to my Dad had tags for it. I just went through titling my 35 from a different state and according to Florida the tag agency needs a verification from a notary or a police officer or any law enforcement officer to verify the v.i.n number and mileage. Just saying. Your doing a very nice job. I wish I could of did a project with my Dad. Cherish every moment. I enjoy my sons helping me out when they can.
    Thanks Ron
     
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  20. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    Yes, its a simple procedure, I just had it done with a motorhome that I purchased that didn't run. I simply called the county, asked for a deputy to come to the campground where it was parked. He showed up, wrote down the vin and mileage on the form and said "here you go". I went to the DMV and got the title. Easy. I asked about the 32 and he said it would be the same procedure. Mileage would just state "error, unknown mileage" Or I could title as "custom built vehicle". Here's the link for that form:
    http://www.flhsmv.gov/dmv/forms/BTR/83045.pdf

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  21. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,585

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes it does sound like a simple procedure. The cop will come out to your place, look for the VIN on the new frame, and.....what?

    Better make sure you don't need that inspection. If Dad can go down and get new plates now, he'd better do so. You could even drop the body back on the original frame if the inspection is needed. But I don't know what you plan on doing when the thing needs inspected again on the new frame.

    What does a "custom built vehicle" mean in Florida? Does it mean the thing is titled as a 2019? Does it require you to equip it with all kinds of safety and emissions garbage?
     
  22. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,585

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I just read your state form. It still requires a serial number (which you won't have when the cop comes to inspect it on the new chassis), and it requires the car to be for exhibition only and not general transportation. I wouldn't want my own car to have those restrictions.
     
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  23. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

    Dad and I got the main crossmember and slick pedal assembly installed today. Everything is coming together nicely. It's all very square and true, very happy with our progress!

    Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  24. FlyingRN
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 49

    FlyingRN
    Member

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