The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by cgc1958, Oct 22, 2015.
Welding in the catwalk with a slight reverse curve.
The 40-48 Plymouth 2 & 4 door sedans and the 5 passenger coupes (the ones with the rear seats) have a curved rear glass. The business coupe is the only body with a flat rear glass. Gene
Yeah, we are switching out the flat glass with curved glass. In this case we think it will keep with the flow of the chop.
Patiently waiting and taking notes. I got a 41 i'll be chopping in the next year. Thanks for your posts. Some of the best chops and threads here on the HAMB.
Thank you, that's really nice of you to say! We are looking forward to getting back on the 40. It's a great car & we want to take each aspect of it a step further. Hopefully we can achieve that!
Here are some more progress pics:
Are you shaving the gutters off it permanently?
Thanks, yes we are leaving them off on this one.
Here is the finished fuel filler delete & the beginning of the driver's side sail panel.
Great craftsmanship! Looks like a very difficult and complex project that few could pull off as well as you are doing.
I believe it's pronounced DANG!.....
I'm out of posts?????? I feel like a junky that has run out of stash!!!
Still working toward that! Thank you!
Thanks, thats nice of you to say!
That's funny! Here's more on the 40 and I just posted more on the 38 Plymouth. More on the chop, windshield wiper delete & air vent delete.
Inspiring. Great job. Keep the updates coming.
superb work, car is looking amazing!
Thank you so much!
Here are pics of the passenger side etc.
Amazing project ! What would you say, as to how many labor hours were involved in this project ?
Thanks for updating this thread. Your eye for good flow and welding skills are both amazing.
Because I'm pretty stupid, and its hard to tell in some of the pictures, let me ask, are you tig welding all these joints? And, are all of the joints butt welded, or are some lap welded? If they are all butt welded, how are you cutting the extra material off once it has been tacked to other metal, like that last roof section picture?
I hope to bring myself up to the crude level, by your standard, someday. Besides the shrinker/stretcher (which I hope to invest in) and the English wheel (which probably won't happen in this life), what other tools would be minimum requirements? Gene
Such an awesome build!
Lots!! It's not done yet!
Thanks! Clark's welding is much better than mine.
The sheet metal is Tig welded. It is butt welded. The extra is cut off with tin snips, a thin cut off wheel, or an air saw.
You can use whatever works best for you. You can always start off with the cheap stuff, then as you get better build your own or invest more money into them. As far as what tools you need, that depends on what you want to do. You can just buy as you go. Unless you're rich then I'd say BUY IT ALL!!
Thanks, it's fun!
Here are some pics:
We are doing other things while doing the chop, trying to have this done for Santa Maria at the end of May. (When I say done, I mean the metal work done and driving. It won't be painted yet.)
Getting the frame sandblasted etc.
Great work!! The TIG welding looks really nice. What size filler rod do you typically use? Also what do you guys do about stretching the weld area back out in the areas where you can't reach the back side easily (like the door pillars)? Just curious.
Thanks Chris! In general, the thinner the better. Well, you really want to get to the back of it whenever possible. If you can't then light a candle, wave a dead chicken over your head, and if it's really bad you may have to sacrifice a virgin (which is very hard to find in California)!! I joke I joke, about the sacrifice....not the virgin!!
Hahaha i don't think it'll be easy to find a virgin in Massachusetts either! Looks like the dead chicken and candle will have to do.
Is that all tig welded?
Yes, the sheet metal is all tig welded.
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