Technical cutting a two piece drive shaft help

Recently read a very good post on cutting your own drive shaft. Of course it seemed to be directed to one piece shafts. I'm needing to shorten the shaft in my 63 Belair which is a two piece shaft...??
Looking at it I'm thinking the rear shaft pretty much needs to stay the length it is as the carrier bearing to the rear measurement stays constant. So I'm assuming the front shaft needs to be cut...but where???? Do I cut it at the trans end or take the carrier off and cut it there??
Anybody have experience with a two piece shaft????

 

Go to Inland Empire Driveline. They will provide you with everything you need to know about a two piece drive shaft and where to take measurements and where to cut. I've used their carrier bearing and two piece drive shaft with slip joint.

Gary

 

Take it apart and it wil become two one piece shafts. You probably will want to shorten the front shaft at the front, and make sure you keep the yokes in phase. I think I read that the Chevy front shaft is clocked 90 degrees but not positive

 

Show a picture of Miraculous Mother to the shaft and it will shrink in length. Just kidding. Dunno how to help.

 

I would separate the drive shaft and cut the front shaft as others have said..
Check the positions of the universals, some GM models have them 1/2 turn out of phase..
Mark a permanent line down the entire shaft including the front and rear yokes, with a permanent felt marker pen, so when it's cut, you can get it back in the same position.
Check the universal joint/s are good we still need these in the shaft..
Get your angle grinder with a cutoff disc, and cut thru the middle of the weld (either front or rear yoke, don't make much difference, to a depth of 1/8'' to 3/16'' right around the shaft.
Once cut, get a hammer and tap the yoke NOT the shaft, it should come apart.
Now fit the front yoke into the gearbox if that's the one you cut off (bottom it out, and draw it out 3/8'' to 1/2'') measure what length you need from the cut edge to a reference point at the rear (center hanger bearing mount hole) This is where you cut the shaft to this length..
DON'T CUT YET... DO double check of your measurement by mounting the rear bearing in the car with the as yet uncut shaft, and hold the front up to approximately check the mark you have made against the front yoke..
If all looks good you can now CUT THE SHAFT, tap the yoke back into the cut shaft, aligning the permanent marker line, to get the U/Joints in the same plane, and give it a tack weld (not too big as it may need to move)
Fit the shaft into the car and secure the bearing at the the rear, turn the shaft to check and remove any run-out by tapping the solid yoke, NOT the shaft..
If it wont straighten up, it could be the welded side needs to move, this will mean cutting the weld and starting again..
Once your happy with the run-out do a couple more tack welds while still in the car and again, recheck run-out,
If your happy with the run-out ( Try and get it down to a minimum, a few thou is good, but a secondhand shaft could be a challenge)..
Now you can remove the shaft and completely weld it..
refit and do a quick run-out check, hopefully the weld heat hasn't effected it..
Hope this is of use, I have done many like this and have always had success..

 

This is Hardy Spicer diagram to show phasing of a 2 piece shaft. The centre bearing would remain where it came from the factory, the front is shortened accordingly to suit your transmission.
http://www.iedls.com/Center-Support-Bearings/1958-64-Chevrolet-Cars.asp

 

I'll be using a 2-piece shaft out of an s10 for my t5 swap. The front shaft is much shorter (about 1/2) than the rear shaft. I see you guys are all saying cut the front shaft but, I'll be ok to cut the rear shaft, right? I figure with the front shaft acting as an extension of the trans, cutting the rear would essentially be like cutting a 1-piece shaft. Am I correct in my thinking or no?

 

To over simplify, the mid bearing is a loaction to keep, it supports the shaft that drives the axle. The front shaft should be the only one to change and could be considered a "fixed" portion of the drive regardless of the required length. Replies 5 and 6 are right on...