The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kiwi Kev, Nov 25, 2006.
Here's what mine look like.
Here is a look at the panels I made for the Jr after the paint was applied.
Here's a new firewall for Evil Step Dads 5w
Still have to finish the bottom section but I couldnt wait!
This is a bead roller I made to do some embossing on hoods or to peak fenders. I was inspired by Jim Baille on MSA it is 42" deep 36" high
the top shaft moves up and down the bottom roller moves in/out and up and down. It is powered by a 90volt DC gearmotor and controller.forward/reverse/variable speed with foot pedal. I plan to make a removable table to bead flat panels also.
Love the firewall
That firewall is cool.
This is some AWSOME work. Really a nice collection of talent out there.
got the bottom finished today!!
How much $$ for custom door panels like the ones in this thread?
Tony, you'll probably get a more accurate response if you PM the guys individually and give more details on the size of the panels you need and what design you want rolled on them.
Speaking for myself, mine start at $175 for a pair with some basic rolling such as flames or something of similar complexity. The ones with diamonds or pleats are more, and the ones with logos and/or text are the highest priced.
same here, depends a lot on what your wanting
Really nice work on that firewall Jay. Is that 18-ga material?
yeppers and its plenty stiff too.
Thanks for posting the pics of your stuff so I could steal it!!!
Nice Jay, freakin awesome in fact.
Question for the bead rollers... How fast dose the metal travel through the die? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to going very slowly?
Some beautiful work shown on this thread.
Slow is good!
Its like racing a road course, fast as you can on the straights, slow down for corners!
That is way too nice to carpet... I'm assuming this will be all welded and painted to match? Please post finished pictures when done. I can't wait to see it.
It will get painted to match, but it all screws in using oval headed countersunk screws, each screw gets a flare around it. Having a custom tool made to do it.
The car has a nice paint job and is not get a repaint, so I kinda had to work around that.
Here's what it started with, notice how large the tunnel is, and the odd angle of steering column. The foot box was tiny, and the notch was way too deep.
(These were taken during deconstruction so wires and stuff are just hanging.)
There was almost 4" of space between the motor and the firewall. The new one is a lot closer but still doesnt crowd anything and I gained 3" of leg room, and the foot box is 4" wider.
Before I cut the old one out (it was made out of 1/8" plate)the car was very cramped and panic stops where impossible as the brake pedal would bottom out on the steering column before the tires would lockup. Now theres plenty of room and its as comfy a car as you could ever have.
The brake pedal is also 3" further away from the seat and doesnt bottom out on anything.
There are going to be panels to match the firewall inset into the tuck and roll for the door panels and headliner.
Amazing work and awesome pic's. I just bought a bead roller and I have never used one before. After seeing this thread.....Looks like I bought a new toy!!!
wow you are an artist
Custom cabinet end for a buddy! (Still has plastic covering on it.)
just love this thread.
This is one of the best tech threads in my eyes.
i still can't get over this thread.
Here's some new stuff and some not-so-new stuff to keep this thread going.
Grey Matter door panels
'66 door panel
Skull door panel
door panel with slightly modified Black Label Skateboards logo
UltimateAircooled.com Driver of the Year award for 2009
thats amazing just amazing.....
Just a dumb question fellas,when doing the quilt or pleats with a border or design what order do you do them in. Pleats first then border ,lettering ? I will post some of my stuff when the HAMB has a Comedy week, but I am improving.
I do pleats first, then border. Since the pleats are so shallow compared to the border stip, by doing pleats first, you can get the pleat all the way to the border without running into the step like you would if you did the step first.
I use that same pricipal for all the inner work too, like on the brain. I did all the inner lines (wrinkles?) first, then ran the step around the brain perimeter to define the edge.
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