The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rockable, Jun 24, 2020.
Blue Ones are nice.
Love the 2x4 cribbing.
12 inches high and very stable.
As others have stated, perfect for panel replacement and fitment as the suspension is loaded.
I always used large heavy duty jack stands, but I get a little nervous after laying under a car for hours and thinking about getting squished like roadkill.
Mine were free to build as the lumber and deck screws were given me.
Don't have a picture, but we have some 12" long chunks of 8" tall I-beam cut to set cars on. Gets it just high enough to comfortably "creep" under the vehicle, and they won't colapse anytime soon. There are some angle iron pieces on the ends to keep tires from rolling off.
I'm using two free sets of rims stacked two high at each corner. 15" laying flat on the slab, on their sides with a 14" laying flat on it's side on top of the base 15's. The 14's tuck inside the 15 lips so they won't slide off.
Raises the vehicle about 12". Stack them behind the garage when not in use.
I made timber cribbing boxes similar to #1 picture out of scrap timber 6" and 10" high. Prefer to use them rather than jacks when possible. These are the floor jack extensions I made up 4"and 6"high and stackable on on top of the other, there is a pin at the bottom that locates them.
the ones blue made are great as they stack and take up little space in the shop when not in use
but they are the same design as forklift stands
I got mine for nothing as the engineering tag came off and the customer that had them did could not use them anymore according to there in-house safety committee.
About $400 a set up here
I also have a set of heavy duty stands
the cropping works very well when it’s built correctly like in the OP’s first post.
blocks stacks up, cinder blocks , and crap like that work too, but it’s just asking for trouble.
That’s sketchy looking.
Even with the jack stands I wouldn’t be comfortable under that car.
Hope that J Hansen doesn’t find out the hard way.
That looks a little scary Danny, I wouldn’t have crawled under the wagons body sitting like that.
The ones rockable made and showed (see below) look very good to me. I made similar ones but being the scaredy cat I am I included side-to-side 2x4's in all the lower openings also. That way the entire weight of the car is being transferred directly to the floor without relying on the 2x4 strength in the span. I wouldn't hesitate to drive a bulldozer over mine. I actually have two sets of 4 each. One set was built in the early 70's and still function perfectly. The other set is approximately 20 years old. They have always been indoors and never been wet; b-t-w.
rockable: ya done good son. Thanx for showing us. I think I've perused all the other threads on here about cribbing (at one time or another) and I like yours as well as anyone's.
Note: I'm making NO reference to any other than wooden ones. If I had blue one's skill set I might try some steel ones. However, I'll NEVER crawl under anything I would weld up. I'm not that good of a welder. Like they say: "just because you have a welder does not mean you are a welder."
I like the idea of the 2x4 cribbing. I can easily do that--being '6 5" and old, I can't work bent over like I used to be able to do. Will definitely do this when I get going on my '55 Ford. You couldn't pay me enough to crawl under a car on concrete blocks, even with the blocks sitting on a very level concrete floor. When I was about 15, my '38 Ford pickup rolled off of concrete blocks stacked 3 high--seconds after I had crawled out from under it. Close call. Around that same time, a man my father worked with at the Atlanta Ford plant got crushed to death when a Model A he was working on fell off of concrete blocks.
All you have to do to prove a point of how cinder blocks are not good for health , is take a block and hit it with a hammer and they will crack and break apart . Now imagine a cars weight on a block.
I use jackstands and ramps but I always throw a spare wheel and tyre under the car when I need to work under it
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Mine are made of 2x4 internal construction, with studs and plates like you would frame a house, and then wrapped in AdvanTech with 2 layers at the load bearing platform. I raised the sides to capture the car, and made them fairly wide for lateral stability, but can als add on some outriggers that I made if needed. All glued and screwed. I use them with the 2 post so I can load the suspension, so most of the time the lift is also there to support the car.
I ran a set of calculations on them and one box will support much more load than the entire car can apply if I could balance it on there. Lateral stability is also well within the design calcs, but there is still more risk there than gravity. Outriggers are ideal if you are not supplementing with a secondary device like a lift. Stability is similar to working on a car properly supported on a 2 post lift. If you really, really wailed on something you could start to move this around, but you would have to want to really bad.
Don't mind the dust... it get's pretty dirty in the shop, so we have to wash the cars every so often while we are working on them.
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