Register now to get rid of these ads!

Hot Rods Crate engine

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by hawkerdriver, Apr 25, 2018.

  1. Hombre: What a solid dude you are! If I was anywhere near Gary (Krylon32), I'd contribute to this effort and get him on his way with a great solution.

    Gary: If you decide you need help or want to explore other options, be happy to donate time/work to help you out. If you decide you want to build another/different engine - be happy to help you (starting with what you have or another block/option - whatever works). I love building engines -- from vintage flatheads/Arduns, to early Hemi stuff, to late BBC/SBC, small block Fords, FE Fords, Olds, Pontiac . . . you name it . . . every one has something special to offer and I like them all. What I've not built is a small block Mopar -- that doesn't appear to be in my future.
     
    TagMan likes this.
  2. DFT
    Joined: May 27, 2018
    Posts: 1

    DFT
    Member

    Danny's Phone - 7-13-15 097.jpg View attachment 3913951 View attachment 3913951 View attachment 3913956 View attachment 3913956
    I ordered a 383 Stroker/TH350 combo deal from Jegs. Engine built by Blueprint was "dressed". Came with 4 bolt main, Holley 750 vac sec, aluminum intake, flat tappet cam/cast iron vortec heads w/plugs & wires, HEI dist, water & fuel pumps, steel crank, harmonic balancer, oil pan, & timing chain cover. 9.0 or 9.5 (forged) compression, supposedly 420hp/465tq (I have not dyno'd it, but it feels like it). Transmission built by TCI. Came with TCI stall converter & flex plate, & ARP bolts. Everything else I had from the leaky 350/TH350 I transplanted. A wire wheel and a couple of rattle cans and you can't tell what is old.They included Royal Purple break in oil & TCI transmission break in fluid. 4 bolt block was not new, but magna fluxed, line honed, etc. Everything else was new. I didn't have the time or means to build my own like I did with my Sportster. So for under $5500, shipped to my house, I think it was a hell of a deal. So far no leaks. Starts up & hauls ass everytime.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 28, 2018
    Shamus likes this.
  3. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Thanks to Zora's (Arkus Duntov) vision!
     
  4. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,377

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    CRATE ENGINE UPDATE. I'm back after having my computers zapped by the Chinese. Was burned so bad either one of them couldn't be repaired. It's a long story. Back to the motor. We removed the Zips kit and installed a Smith stock style short pump with the bypass plugged and ran the engine with a box fan in front of the radiator and all 4 sides of the motor ran virtually the same temperature. We installed a Cooling Components fan and shroud and now going down the road the temp reads about 185 and in town with the fan circulating the temp goes to about 200 and on a 95 degree day creeps to 210. Some of this is the temp sender installed in the rear corner of the right head which is a SBC hot spot. I've driven the car about 400 miles and things seem fine? I have no idea why the Zips riser with the high performance pump didn't work in the coupe while the same setup works fine in my deuce pu. Thanks for all the feedback from the HAMB. We're down the road until something else goes wrong?
     
  5. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    Thx for coming back and filling us in. Sorta tells me I need to at least use an infra red temp gun and check mine on both sides. When I get to the shop, I'll check, for temp sender location, but IIRC mine is also in rear of right head.
     
  6. Never would have seen that one.
     
  7. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,708

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Proves once again that you should never go by assumptions, good to check it out completely and not assume that because it has worked in other cases it will work every time.
     
  8. Sheep Dip
    Joined: Dec 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,572

    Sheep Dip
    Member
    from Central Ca

    You'd get $5 from me....great run of the mill cruising motors. Put a Pace Performance Connect and Cruise 260 HP/TH350 motor/trans package in my 40 coupe. Less than $5k to my door, includes from air cleaner to pan and water pump to trans output yoke.
    It does not get any easier than that.
    I did have a 67-327 I originally planned to rebuild, but the cost for just a rotating assembly at the machine shop was $2500.
     
  9. They are made in Mexico and are still cheap.
    I'm Not sure how the new trade tariffs will effect the prices. I'm sure the prices will go up soon if they didn't already. Get one now if you want it.
     
    pat59 likes this.
  10. Well, it is great that you solved it . . . but now I'm worried that when I put the new high horsepower 383 stroker in my 32 (that currently has a 200 hp smog motor and a Zips kit), that I'll have your problems! Guess we will find out and I'll report back to this post as to what I find. Is interesting that the same/similar setup worked in other configurations, just not this one. For some reason it was NOT pushing the same amount/volume of water through the engine. Gary - thanks for the update!
     
  11. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,213

    sunbeam
    Member

    Dirty old man Is referring to the loss of the coolant passage in later blocks. The extra hole where the pump bolts on the right side is not there on late models. This allowed the pump the circulate water in the block when the thermostat is closed this is why you need a bypass hose on these engines. Turning on the heater allows the coolant circulate acts as a bypass.
     
  12. dirty old man
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 8,910

    dirty old man
    Member Emeritus

    Yes, that is one of the times when you lose the bypass, the other is when you install a Zip's riser, as there isn't a hole in the riser to allow bypass when the thermostat is closed. This lack of circulation during periods of closed thermostat because of extreme low temps or just started up can result in a "deadhead" and or pump cavitation.
    The instructions on a new Zip's riser caution you that you need either a heater or a bypass hose to allow circulation, advising that use of one or the other full time is necessary to get proper operation.
    I'm using a 5/8"heater hose from a hole between #6 & #8 on right head to the water pump on the suction side. And since the heads are the same side to side, only reversed, the same hole on the left is between #1 & #3 and is where I have the water temp sensor. In an earlier post I was mistaken on the location of the temp sender.
    Right now the car is down and I'm trying to sort out some unrelated problems when life allows me time and energy. But when it's back together, I intend to make a good, hard run, maybe in 3rd gear so as not to get too fast and get the cops angry, then pull over and check all four corners of my Trick Flow heads for temp with my infra red gun.
     
  13. Shamus
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,247

    Shamus
    Member
    from NC

    Hard to beat at that price.
     
  14. Shamus
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,247

    Shamus
    Member
    from NC

    Gary, Will you have your car at L'ville in August?
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.