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Technical Crank Seal Swap - What Does It Take?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by brett4christ, Feb 1, 2018.

  1. I have a '57 283 that has a rope rear main seal (the last year), and I'm building it mildly (read "near stock") for my Tudor A. I know this type of seal is tough to install without it leaking (not impossible I assume), but Chevrolet would not have changed the seal design in '58 if there was not a better way.

    So, my question is, can an early '60's crank be installed in a early block, and what has to be done to the block/rear cap to accept the 2-piece rear seal? And I guess more importantly, is it even worthwhile to consider the swap in the first place?

    EDDIT: Yep, I realize now that a crank swap is not necessary. Just looking for seal options....
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2018
  2. Not an expert, but I don't see a problem with a crank swap. Changing to a different rear main would not be something you could do. At least not without major work on the block.
     
  3. Speed Gems
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 6,433

    Speed Gems
    Member

    Small block Chevys were all small journal (2.30) blocks until '68 so you shouldn't have a problem with the crank swap. As far as the seal i don't know but i don't think there should be any issues.
     
  4. little howard
    Joined: Mar 13, 2005
    Posts: 84

    little howard
    Member
    from kcmo

    Egge makes a replacement lip seal for your application. Fairly easy to do, pull rear main cap, pull out the rope seal, lube up the new seal and slide them in. Make sure to use the Egge one, the one from the other guys are crap. I've heard there is a Teflon rope seal that works, but I went with the Egge lip seal. I just did this on my 265 . Just make sure you get the lip facing the right way.
     
    lothiandon1940 and brett4christ like this.

  5. Thanks @little howard ! I was hoping that there was a simple solution!!
     

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