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cracked off the nipple on the bleeder screw

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by greg_usa, Jul 31, 2011.

  1. greg_usa
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 25

    from New York

    Hey Fellas - trying to get the wheel cylinder off my 51 plymouth. Was trying to get the bleeder screw out so that I'd be able to turn the cylinder itself so i can get it disconnected off the brake line of the other side of the backing plate.

    Anyway - the nipple cracked off and I'm having a really hard time now getting a grip on it to get it off. Any reccomendations on what to try here?

    Drill it? Heat it up? One thing I was thinking... there is a notch through the backplate that the bleeder screw goes through. If I drilled that notch a little bigger I can probably get the wheel cylinder off and have a lot more room to get at the bleeder screw. Is that a bad idea?

    Once again... bear with me and any stupid questions as a I'm a newbie. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks fellas!
  2. boldventure
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 1,766


  3. propwash
    Joined: Jul 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,858

    from Las Vegas

    are the flats still on the nut? If so, there is a broached EZ out tapered with machined cutting/snagging edges on all four sides that may fit in the remnants of the bleeder screw. Other option is to drill it out a little bit and try that EZ out or one of the reverse threaded type. You can always just grind off the part of the bleeder screw that is apparently not allowing you to remove that cylinder and then take off the two mounting bolts. Keep in mind that if you do any drilling or grinding, you'll have to completely clean and rebuild that cylinder.

    Good luck...these sort of problems are what separate the complacent mechanic from the one that teaches everyone within earshot new and disgusting words.

  4. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,531


    What condition is the cylinder in? If it needs replaceing anyway just do what you need to do to get it off. If you are doing a complete brake job just cut the flex hose and take the backing plate off and work on the bench.

  5. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,188

    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    If it's that corroded, you probably need new cyls as well as update the steel brake lines. Hell, just go for it, then you have reliable brakes and more enjoyment driving your car.
  6. greg_usa
    Joined: Jul 25, 2008
    Posts: 25

    from New York

    got the hose through the backplate by peeling away the copper bushing. So was able to get the cyliner off and then get the screw out on the bench. Thanks for the help fellas! I'm inspecting the cylinder - I think you guys are right - probably smarter just to replace.

    Thanks for all the help fellas!
  7. Unless brand new wheel cylinders are ridiculously expensive, replace them. If they're pricey look into a rebuild kit. But don't re-use them as is.
  8. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478


    always the best way of getting a usefull responce is to post pictures, so you have a
    steel line going to the wheel cylinder? if so just cut it off.
  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 18,146


    $30-$50 depending on front or rear. There are two in each front, upper and lower.
  10. 28chevrat
    Joined: Oct 11, 2005
    Posts: 322


    New ones the are way to go. Only way I've ever freed any stuck bleeder screws is to use some good penatrating oil (I mean good, WD40 is not the best stuff out there) let it soak for a day or two days and should break loose !!
  11. alex211
    Joined: May 20, 2010
    Posts: 39

    from NW PA

    I always heat the bleeder with a torch a little before trying to remove them if they are stuck, always has worked for me.

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