Cracked Model A front crossmember, what to do?

I just picked my frame up from the 'blasters today and found quite the hairy situation on the front crossmember. While I have welded a few frame cracks before, the orientation, and number of cracks present makes me want to seek suggestions.

If this was your frame, would you:

1) Stop drill, V-notch, weld the cracks, inside and out, call it a day?
2) Cut out affected area, scab in a patch.
3) Replace the entire crossmember.

Thanks fellas

 

I would cut out the area and replace (not scab) it. I would use 1/4"or 3/16" steel and T.I.G. weld it.

 

I'd cut the center out or entire member.
That metal must be very fatigued to fracture like that

 

I am not sure on Model A's how thick the crossmember is, guessing 10 ga.,If mine I would cut out the cracked section and bend up and weld in a replacement piece. Look at it like a body patch panel only thicker. Good luck

 

I'd cut the center out or entire member.
That metal must be very fatigued to fracture like that


awe its soul is broken

 

That looks much like the crossmember on the frame I have. I hoped to V-notch and weld them up. Maybe that isn't such a good idea??

 

The repro cross members are inexpensive,,I'd replace it. HRP

 

Don't be a crack whore. Cut it out. You'll feel much better.

 

Drill, V notch, weld. Then worry forever about the rest cracking . With the way the fatique cracks look in the pictures I would replace the complete crossmember and move on.

 

Repop crossmember,cheap insurance.

 

Alright guys, looks like I'll be hunting for a new crossmember. I know they make the "hot rod" style without the motor mount, but since the banger is going back in the car, can a stock appearing/ functioning crossmember be purchased new?

Thanks for confirming my suspicions, HAMB to the rescue!

 

Not sure if it matters in the OP's case, but are there any repro front crossmembers that have the rear 'shelf' where the stock A motor mount goes? I've never seen one. I'd repair it or look for another original.


EDIT: You posted your reply while I was typing mine.

 

i would weld it up, maybe a piece on top for reinforcment too. only cuz i like the look of the factory rivets...and im cheap.

 

V it, weld it, weld a piece of plate across the whole flat area and bend up the ends so the plate extends up the angled portions a ways. I did this to mine, used a stick welder and it's as strong as a strong thing.

 

I know Precision Coachworks of Billerica, Massachusetts has stock replacement crossmembers for V8 Fords, since I put one in a '36 3W I had. I'm not sure about Model A's, though.

 

Replace it? Lots of work to remove all the rivets, would you put rivets back or weld? I like the origonal look, remove the bad area and weld in a new piece. When a repair is done, it should look like it was never repaired.

 

Haha, yup for sure need that shelf for the motor mount. I suppose I'd be in the market for a good old crossmember if someone has one laying around.

 

Thanks a lot! I'll check them out for sure!

I would rather the rivets, but it's going on a full fendered car, so I suppose it doesn't really matter as it'll never be seen as easily as it would if it were fenderless.

 

For a Banger powerplant, I'd just "V" it and weld it up with an arc welder, then grind it smooth. It'll outlast you on today's smooth roads. The cracks are the result of driving down washboard roads!

 

When I did mine, they had an option of using special "button-head" (allen) bolts that fit very snuggly into the holes in the frame and crossmember. You used red or green Loctite and tightened the shit out of them. I went that way and never had a problem the 8 years I had the car. When you're done, some filler in the socket head and a little sanding, and they looked just like rivets after paint. Worked for me!

 

much like an iceberg, for every crack you see, there are more that you cant see yet.

REPLACE

(my suggestion)

 

While the roads back when are certainly a factor, I also believe loose and worn parts left unfixed are a big factor in why so many original crossmembers cracked.
Loose u-bolts, sloppy wishbone ball connections, etc.
If all of the original rivets for the crossmember are tight and in good shape, I'd certainly consider repairing it in place. If there are issues with the rivets, start looking for a replacement. Good uncracked, unrepaired originals are not that easy to come by.
I would try to get ahold of a good replacement before removing yours.
Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app

 

Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it. I have one rivet that has worked loose, but the rest are nice and tight. I'll keep an eye open for a good original crossmember, and in the meantime I'll work on other parts of the car. Thanks once again to all who responded.

 

I've got a crossmember with a huge ranch inspired welded repair patch that looks like it would fix those cracks! Common issue?

 

You said the banger was going back in. Then I would just V it out and either mig or tig weld the cracks.

 

The cracks are telling you it's fatigued metal. Welding it back up doesn't address the fatigue issue.

The only two "reliable" opions are:

1.0 Replace it with an aftermarket crossmember, or
2.0 Remove the OEM crossmember, weld repair it, radiograph it to ensure the cracking is gone and then send it out for stress relieving.

 

Just to make you really sick, I can remember when I bought NOS "A" front crossmembers for $12 ea. and thought I was paying too much! I agree with all those who vote for replacing the crossmember completely. I think you will chase the cracks and fatigued metal much longer than it's worth. It's not a very hard job to replace it.

 

I'd weld it up and probably bend a piece of 3/16 or so to weld on the inside, pretty common crack, ive seen a ton of them

 

V it, weld it and fix the rivet issues! The coupe in my avatar was cracked like this and did that repair to it and the car has been fine for 7 years now of alot of street use and occasional track use with either a wild SBC or mild BBC. A banger isn't gonna hurt it unless you're offroad racing it! Lol

 

I would Replace the front Crossmember