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cowl welding help/suggestions...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by north coast greaser, Dec 25, 2006.

  1. i got a really nice mid-late 20s buick cowl that doesnt have any inner structure in it at all. my question is, how do i attach tube steel as an inner structure to the sheet metal cowl? i dont want to run bolts or rivets through the outside of the cowl. will spot welding it work or will it warp the sheet metal?

    also, for a welder, all we got is a small wirefeed without gas. will this work? or do i need something bigger?

    is there a recommended tube wall thickness or will whatever i can get work?

    also, if anyone has pics of what they did for a cowl inner structure or body inner structure, please feel free to post 'em here as it may aid in someone elses project as well as mine.


    thanks
    ncg
     
  2. rodrelic
    Joined: Mar 7, 2002
    Posts: 466

    rodrelic
    Member

    The A cowl has the gas tank, junk but sturdy enough for reinforcement if some is left when the bottom is cut out. If your's is otherwise I would use some 16 GA to make a rib for the top about 2" that will do the same. Then do some channel of the same stuff. Determine the curve of the body sides if any and grind the channel to make the sides conform.

    I would, did, use flux core mig, Actually I spotted everything together with that, worked great. Clean wire with gas wouldn't do rusty, just new like the floor joints and subframe attachment to the new parts. Wouldn't do a reliable bead on rusty, maybe someone else could. But the majority was gas welded, what I really can depend on.

    I only used tubing for the subfrane to tie the body together.
    Between the patch panels and screwed glued wood frame it make's an amazingly strong body, bolt in aluminum dash could be a structural enhancement, but not nessecary in this case.

    some pics of the body construction

    http://www.directimagehost.com/pf.php?fid=7372
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Kustm52
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 1,981

    Kustm52
    Member

  4. rodrelic
    Joined: Mar 7, 2002
    Posts: 466

    rodrelic
    Member

    Nice job with the tubing. Surprising how the raggedy old stuff firm's up with a little carefully placed fab.
    In the end you say
    "next time I could start with new stuff and make it all from scratch"
    but then it has nothing original, no soul
     

  5. Very interesting website - I enjoyed watching the body being brought together. Liked the use of whatever's on hand rather than spending on super-desirable parts - that's the way it was done then.

    Did you know that the 3/4" square tube bends really well if you use a hardwood plank with a 7/8" round hole drilled in it. Just put the plank in a vice and the tube through the hole and you will be able to be bend all sorts of curves in it without collapsing or crimping the tube. Saves making lots of relief cuts, welds and grinding.
     
  6. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,267

    rodknocker

    DON'T WELD IT! make your structure to go under the hood and use body cement.The shop i work at uses body cement sealer to attach all of its "non bolt on metal" like quarters. I didn't believe it myself until i saw it. this stuff is amazing in strength.I recommend checking it out to see if it would work for your application.of course i'm sure sure if this method is "hotrodder" approved and you may catch some shit for doing it this way, but hell it cuts down on warpage
     
  7. I used 1 1/4" tubing. See red thread below.

    P.S. I used a 220 mig with gas, I have no experience with flux-core. How about fitting your tubing, using the flux-core to tack in palce, and find a friend who is a good welder to finish it up for you? Or try cement, like Rodknocker suggested.
     

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