Register now to get rid of these ads!

cowl notch? spaced wishbone?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Danburnsart, Nov 29, 2011.

  1. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    Hello,
    Finally got my T Coupe project home and got to tinkering. I've decided that it needs channeled a little....about half the heighth of the frame rails, or 2 inches. The problem you'll see from the photos is that if I drop the front that far down I'll be into the wishbone and rod-end. I can think of 2 measures to fix this. Splaying the bottoms of the cowl and tucking the wishbone and rod-end up inside....not appealing. The other idea I had was to notch the cowl a little to provide clearance. Even better, I considered spacing the rod-end out about 1.5 inches so that my notch would only need to be big enough to slip around the "sleeve" or spacer that the rod-end bolt goes through. It would change the geometry of the split bones a bit, putting them closer to parallel, but still well-angled.

    Thoughts? Hope my pics work....if not I'll post in my album. Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Zombie Hot Rod
    Joined: Oct 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,451

    Zombie Hot Rod
    Member
    from New York

    You could also move them lower on the frame, then pie cut the front of the wishbone (right before the cast end) to put the right amount of caster back into the front axle.

    While you're at it you can weld a taped mount on, switch over to a regular Ford tie rod end, and scrap that heim joint.
     
  3. A9X
    Joined: Nov 1, 2006
    Posts: 13

    A9X
    Member
    from Australia

    You could make a nice little aluminium scoop to neaten up a notch out of the cowl
     
  4. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,482

    striper
    Member

    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,544

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.

    In some cases,bringing out from frame may make the bone interfear with front tire turning[check that before hand].
    I like Zombie's way best as long as ya got ground clear OK.
     
  6. 32 hudson
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 693

    32 hudson
    Member

    I like the notch Idea. Gives a unique touch to your car and not shoddy workmanship or any thing like that. Mayby reinforce the the back side of the noitch with a 1/4" rod welded around the edge. I have done that on alate model where the the fender wheel well lip was trimed inside for tire clearance on a drag car. MOH
     
  7. porknbeaner
    Joined: Sep 12, 2003
    Posts: 41,121

    porknbeaner
    Member

    Notch the cowl, keep it simple.
     
  8. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 948

    mlagusis
    Member

    I like what Zombie Hot Rod suggested. A notch in the body would look out of place. Or you can do what Striper suggested by tapering the bottom of the body up.
     
  9. mlagusis
    Joined: Oct 11, 2009
    Posts: 948

    mlagusis
    Member

    After looking at the last picture you posted I would like to retract my comment about lowering the mount for your wishbone...if you lowered the mount the wishbone looks like it would be angled downward and that might look funny.
     
  10. banginona40
    Joined: Mar 5, 2007
    Posts: 752

    banginona40
    Member

    Here is how I did my '33. I welded a nut to a crush sleeve and welded it through the frame for a simple bolt through assembly.

    I have since lowered the grille.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    Thanks for the responses guys. I'm thinking very much like what banginona40's pics look like. The rod-end mount isnt going anywhere as far as up or down...I'm leaving it where it is. I like what Striper did alot....really smooth looking, and that was my original "mental image", but the more I looked at it I thought, "why dont I just space the rod-end mount out a bit, to clear, then make a little "C" notch in the bottom edge of the cowl to slip down over the mount?" I think thats what I'll do....thanks for the help!
     
  12. Zombie Hot Rod
    Joined: Oct 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,451

    Zombie Hot Rod
    Member
    from New York

    It's sort of hard to tell. They're angles downward in the pictures above, but frame looks like it's on jack stands with the axle hanging down in the front.

    I like my wish bones to be level with the car's body. . . if that makes any sense.
     
  13. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,098

    Tin Can
    Member

    I cut a small notch in my cowl so the body slid over the boss on the frame that the wishbone attached to. Not sure if this would be an option
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,511

    Crankhole
    Member

    Not for the wishbone, but for the channel. Nice lookin notch.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    Okay, here is what I did. Removed alot of structure on the inside where the firewall ties to the cowl and lower front quarter area, but I'll reinforce all that. If I pinch the bottom edges of my notch in to the subrails and fill the rest of it with a strip of sheetmetal, I think it'll look good. I like the "custom-fit" look of it, and it got the body down where I wanted it. Dont mind the rough cuts in the cowl....both lower edges need replaced, so I'll make the same mods with precision to the patch sections.
    I did also space the mounting location of the rod ends out, about 1.25 inches on each side. I did, as zombie said, slightly decrease my turning radius, but by a pretty insignificant amount. I'll play with seeing how far back toward the body I can go with that too...I think I can come back in 1/2-3/4s of an inch.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. 28dreyer
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,106

    28dreyer
    Member
    from Minnesota

    How would this look to finish your 180 degree notch?
     

    Attached Files:

  17. I can't remember where I saw it, but someone on here cut a sideways V-shaped notch in the outer frame rail, bent it inward, and capped the three open sections allowing the radius arm to be countersunk into the frame rail.
     
  18. US_Marshall
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 85

    US_Marshall
    Member

    What about cutting your radius arms shorter so the pivot is in front of the body? I doubt the car is going to have the same amount of suspension travel as it did originally so the tighter arc of the front axle shouldn't effect the dynamics too much.
     
  19. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    like this texashardcore? kinda a rough, quick drawing, but I think I see where you're going...basically a recess in the frame rail to allow the rod to tuck in better? I like it....

    As far along as I am with the frame construction, I dont really wanna mess with moving the suspension components around....I like the look it has and would rather modify the body to fit the frame rather than the other way around.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    28dreyer, what you have going on there is gorgeous....not quite my taste or where I wanna go with this little beast, but very nice work!
     
  21. AAFD
    Joined: Apr 13, 2010
    Posts: 585

    AAFD
    Member
    from US of A

  22. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    Yes, that is what I was thinking. Very cool. Too "clean" I think for my little coupe, but very cool.
    I think my spacer idea will work fine, and I already have the perfect spacers. They provide a large area to weld to the frame, and I think that when done will maintain an oldish look too....I think they'll look like something that would have been done back in the 40's or 50's.
     
  23. iammarvin
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,198

    iammarvin
    BANNED
    from Tulare, Ca


    There is a half assed thread on how I did this somewhereon here.
     

    Attached Files:

    • 001.JPG
      001.JPG
      File size:
      142.6 KB
      Views:
      66
    • 002.jpg
      002.jpg
      File size:
      497 KB
      Views:
      51
    • 003.jpg
      003.jpg
      File size:
      506 KB
      Views:
      72
  24. iammarvin
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,198

    iammarvin
    BANNED
    from Tulare, Ca

    I am way to slow.............
     
  25. 28dreyer
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,106

    28dreyer
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Remember to give some thought about how this will come apart. Good reason for the Heim joint but if using a tie rod end. You need to be able to get a pickle fork on it or access to the tapered bung body to bang it with a heavy brass punch.
     
  26. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    good thinking 28dreyer....hadnt thought of that, but in truth I'm planning on sticking with the heim joint anyway. I dont see any reason not too, other than wanting a more traditional look. I do like the looks of tie rod ends, but it's not that important to me. Even if I did use them, I think there will be plenty of room for access, especially from beneath. I think the setup I have is gonna work and look just how I want. Thanks for the advice!
     
  27. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    i am curious as to the real advantage of the use of a tie rod end over a heim joint though
     
  28. 28dreyer
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,106

    28dreyer
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Heim joints have advantages but they are newer technology and not the look or era some people want.

    Cost is also a factor, don't believe they are being used on many if any, current production cars or trucks. So I suspect the real advantage is mainly cost although the tapered pin maybe a stronger and more solid connection than a bolt and nut.
     
  29. Danburnsart
    Joined: Jul 27, 2010
    Posts: 118

    Danburnsart
    Member
    from 59044

    cool...thanks for the info. It is about as I thought....I do like the more "traditional" look of the tie rod ends, but for me the simplicity of the heim joint ends works. I'm trying to be picky about keeping the car looking pretty traditional, but also utilizing some more modern pieces where they dont compromise the look too much, and add to the ease of maintenance, etc.

    Heres a couple pics...just finished dropping the body about 2.5 inches. I dont know if I'd say it's "channeled....I just brought the sill plates down so they are level with the tops of the frame rails. It covers some of the frame, and gets the body more down where I wanted it. Hope you all like it!
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.