Hot Rods Coupe door jamb finish

Okay still trying to find out how the door jamb of the model a coupe should be finished. As you can see by these pics, when i got the car they had been spot welded in a few places. For them to be finished properly, are they meant to be finish welded all the way? i see the holes for the nails to go to the wood. Were they meant to be welded at all? Looked online a bunch looking for pics to see how they are usually done but havent found anything at this point. Some guidance would be great. thanks

 

My coupe didn't have any welds on it. I put a couple of spot welds on it and ground them down after I put in all new nails. There are no rules with a hot rod and you can finish it any way you would like!

 

x2

 

As you can see all those small holes were for nails, but as mentioned above your choice as to how you finish it.
There was wood in the pillar which from memory served as a base for nailing the panel and also the trim.
Show us what you chose to do...

 

interesting. i am assuming the nails go through both pieces then tying them together to finish? thinking i like the idea of welding it in place. clean up the weld flat and then put the nails in. Any pics of how guys have finished this area would be great. thanks

 

If it was mine I'd weld all the joint and the nail holes. I would put a few screws from the other side of the pillar into the wood to hold it in place. If the wood is currently in the post, weld slowly and shortly, and keep a squirt bottle of water nearby in case of fire.

 

They weren't welded at all. That should hold together, just file it flat and paint it.

 

Just my opinion, but I like to see the nails. When they're fully welded and smoothed out it looks like a fiberglass body.


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You have to have wood in the posts for the nails, easier to finish and paint if you weld up the nail holes and use steel in the post instead of wood. Put several spot welded on the long seam and grind them so they don't show

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I welded the jambs since I replaced wood with steel.

 

A guy in the neighboring town welded 'em up...then after the wood fire, removed the body and cut away the subrails, and extracted the burnt wood.
He shaped some more wood, (soft pine!) and pounded it back in, giving him the 'peace of mind' that the nails would now hold, and cure rattles.
I wasn't gonna mention the town, but...It's Winton!
Still hasn't gotten it running...

 

Thanks for the info guys. I want to keep the wood for sure and plan on using the nails. Anyone have pics of that area finished with the nails installed?

 

Here's my 31 coupe

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Thank you sir. that gives me a better idea of the finished product.

 

Now I need to start making some progress on mine too.

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Quick tip- pre drill a small pilot hole then hold the nails with a pair of needle nose pliers and use a tack hammer. If you have big hands like I do, it will save you from bending nails half way in and beating the crap out of your fingertips. There's LOTS of nails to put in!
Good Luck
MB

 

The '30 Plymouth I'm restoring for a customer is all sheet metal nailed to a full wood structure, and the wood that I didn't have to redo is hard as hell - I used my pneumatic rivet gun with the teasing throttle to drive the new nails in, easy as can be. Got the correct nails from Restoration Supply.

 

Nice looking job on that jamb....i have steel with welds, blended in. Nail holes are epoxied and flushed...

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The Model A's had ash in them which is a hard wood- good re-pop wood kits are the same material.

Another tip- hang your doors BEFORE you nail/ weld that in- sometimes being able to adjust the position in or out will make the reveal where the door hits the body better.