Put 350 sbc on TDC, Then pointed the rotor toward number 1 cylinder, plug wires are right sequence. When I turn it over it seems to want to start with the advance turned all the way to where its hitting the intake manifold. No backfire, Do you think its too far retarded and I need to put number ONE wire counter clockwise 1 notch. Appreciate any input, Stan
"it seems to want to start with the advance turned all the way to where its hitting the intake manifold" Are you turning the distributor "counter clockwise" to hit the intake? If you are, then you need to move the dist gear one tooth clockwise.
you are just guessing , you may have to re-stab the distributor to get it right when i drop one in a SBC , i turn the crankshaft up to about 10 degrees before TDC on the firing stroke of #1 cylinder. drop in the distributor , set the timing with an ohmmeter so the points are just opening as you rotate it counterclockwise with the rotor pointing at #1. you may have to try a tooth either way to get it positioned where you want. i've done it this way for many years , i am always within a degree or two after i fire the motor and time it with a light
ya, im turning the distributor vacuum till it hits the intake, that's where it seems to want to run, don't know how to do the ohm meter thing, not that savy, would restabbing the distributor a notch clockwise be advancing?
would restabbing the distributor a notch clockwise be advancing? Yes. I would normally suggest a person start from scratch by finding TDC #1 comp stroke, then going from there.... BUT, you sound pretty confident that it is very close to starting., So in this case, I'd say it's worth a "time saving" gamble to go one tooth clockwise (which means your rotor will be more clockwise).
My reference books show the rotor pointing to #2 cylinder at top dead center.. I know you can put #1 anywhere on cap, just make sure wires coincide with #1 where you put it on the cap...
thaks guys, i'll go a notch clockwise and try er again, still interested in the ohm meter thing though, I have a plug and play summit 3 wire distributor, red orange, and black grd the coil is separate, how would you do the ohm meter test?
Set balancer timing mark at 8-10* BTDC on compression of course, align rotor pointing at # 1 . You should have a fair enough sweep with the canister.(put it in the middle of it's sweep) if not,and still hit's, you should see which way you have to go. Move a tooth,and try again. Sometime's, and I'm sure your distributor will have to make a few revolutions to drop in. Re- check tdc,and start again at the 8-10.........I'ts a PIA, but you'll get it.........Once set,your done.
are you using the TDC on the balancer? if so it may not be correct, probably need to pull a plug and find real TDC.
try to line up oil pump tang it helps.I use a big long screwdriver.something else to try to see if off a tooth is to move plug wires one at time clockwise or counter clockwise as on distributor cap each plug is 15 degrees apart on cap.
yes, I used the dead stop tool, spinning the engine til it hit the piston, marked the balancer at o and then spun the motor 360 the other way and when it hit the piston I marked it at o, then I split the distance from the both o's. that gives me TDC. I have number 1 plug wire set at the cap the second plug wire hole from where the cap screw mounts to the distributor body. rotor pointing to number one cylinder. sounds like a slam dunk, but the some in a gun aint cooperatin
Read a trick to find TDC on another thread: Put a small rolled up piece of paper in the spark plug hole and crank over til it pops out with compression, then roll up to timing mark. Drop in dizzy with rotor towards #2, then put #1 wire in that hole and wire cap from there according to firing order.
the job is made a lot easier with a remote starter as you can make it a one man job.when you try dropping distributor in due to the cut of the gear on distributor and cam if you put in distributor with rotor pointing at where #2 would be on cap as gear starts to mesh.when you hold distributor with downward pressure you will find as gear meshes with cam when you bump the start button it will end up pointing at #1.as stated by others this only applies if at close to TDC.to start with.you will need to keep pressure on distributor while bumping motor until oil pump tang allows distributor to drop fully in.then bump 2 revolutions (putting clamp on snug will free up your hand) to assure that rotor is pointing at #1 or very close.it will be within a few degrees which you can turn distributor once started one important thing make sure you put clamp on base snug but not tight to allow turning when setting timing.do not skip the 2 full revolutions as 1 will have rotor pointing 180 out when you think it is right WRONG.I have done it so many times I know where oil pump slot should point making it a little easier to drop in without bumping but not needed just makes it quicker.this may seem easy for any of us that have done it many times if I forgot anything someone will fill in blanks
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