The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sconnors, Aug 23, 2010.
definatly replace all welsh (freez) plugs afterall they are likely to all be the same age
Here's your best answer. ^^^^
If it were me I'd pull the engine and do all the freeze plugs and a reseal.
And unless you find someone that doesn't realize the complexity of the job but stands behind their estimate or doesn't want to earn a living turning wrenches, 3-4hrs labor is a pipe dream.
One more thing I forgot to mention.. This motor has a chicken/egg problem that's no fun to work around. This is true for a manual car, not sure about the automatic trans setup.
You can't remove the bellhousing with the flywheel in place and you can't remove the flywheel with the bellhousing on the engine.
The flywheel has to come of first as there are bolts behind it that hold the bellhousing on. The only way to take the flywheel of is while it's attached to the crankshaft. So, you have to pull the crankshaft/flywheel assembly (2 man job!!) before you pull the bellhousing and can get to the plug.
Replacing that freeze plug requires you to take the whole engine apart.
Also, if you are leaking coolant it's not the freeze plug at the back of the engine, that only hold in engine oil.
That simplified things. Hope for a head gasket over a cracked block.
Pressurize the cooling system, see where it comes out! A head gasket would be great news.
rschilp, is right on. I just went out and looked at an old block, and there's only one plug [cam plug]on the back of the block. The one that usually goes is the back plug on the head, so first make sure where its leaking, makes a big difference. I have seen old straight 8 buicks with many a hole in the firewall made with punches, chisels, to hole saws.
A lot of posts before the truth comes,no rear block plug for coolant.Remind myself never to buy a straight eight Buick car
That was the bell that rang with me! Apprenticed in '57, did many big jobs on Buick straight 8s, couldn't recall any welch plugs in rear of engine block, only in head.
Agree removing engine is best: However, I'd do the hole saw in the firewall trick, we did many of those on the old Chevys then.
BUT!!! Don't forget these cars were much newer then, so take the advise from above and plan on removing the engine in the near future. (oil pan and side cover gaskets, rocker cover gasket, water pump and thermostat housing gaskets; front and rear main (crankshaft) seals as well)
Motor's manual will call this an engine 'reseal', a must when preparing it for some future usage.
Hope this helps.
wow guys a lot of very informative input. thanks for all the input and i hope to keep receiving more. since i have limited space to work it's going to the mechanics on monday so i'm hoping it's NOT the freeze plug! i'll keep everyone posted and thank you all for your help.
So is a thousand dollars or less a realistic price or am I looking at more? Just trying to figure out what to do...maybe sell the car???
Man after reading all of this I would be inclined to take it someplace and tell them to call when it's fixed.
That and clean up/paint the engine compartment, chrome polish all the hard to reach chrome stuff, degrease everything, wire-wheel rusty bolts etc.
if you gotta pull the motor, might as well spruce it up in there..
Sell the car because fluid is leaking? In case you didn't notice this is the H.A.M.B.
""The Jalopy Journal was formed just a few years later to spread the gospel of traditional Hot Rods and Kustoms to hoodlums worldwide… We wanted to be the voice of the working man, a tool in the toolbox of the guy that does it himself, ..........."". ...etc,etc.
It was my attmept at humor after I looked at the balance of my checking account!!! LOL
Well guys I put the Buick up on ramps this morning. Wiped everything clean, spread newspapers underneath and let her sit. No leaks. Then I started her up and let her run for awhile and get up to temperature and then shut her off and watched for leaks. I think I found the leak! It appears to have been coming from a new frost plug that was put in. It seems that the nut on the end had loosened a bit and anti freeze was running down the block, onto the oil pan and dripping beneath the car. I've attached some pics.
Let's hope that's it!
Thanks for everyone's help and input it was as always greatly appreciated
You guys are the best
It doesn't pay to panic or think the worst case. It always pays to look at it yourself and ask questions. Good for you. This is a good post to add this:
K&W has a product called "PERMANENT BLOCK AND HEAD SEALER" that comes in a neon green bottle. It's $20 and comes with a double your money back guarantee if it doesn't work. On an older car here that would've required a very costly radiator re-core (that came with NO warrantee) we chose to try this 1st. Let's see here, $20 or $1500 and an "if"? Followed the directions to the letter and actually watched the 3 leaks stop. It took about an hour. That was last year and still no issues. Something to consider. I'm not a fan of "bottled magic" but in this case it's worth it.
Next time investigate, then if necessary shit yourself.
AMEN to that brother! I need to take this experience as a life lesson learned!!
Here is a cutaway of a buick 8. It appears that there is no freeze plug on the back of the block, altough there is one one the back of the cylinder head.
pull the engine & tranny. Put a 283 with a turbo 350 in it
That's a good thing!.
See, I knew you could get to the bottom of it, literally. Slide under, take a look and you found it.
12-Pack if you have the right friends...
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