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Cost of sand blasting?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jersey Joe 67, Apr 11, 2009.

  1. Jersey Joe 67
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 427

    Jersey Joe 67
    Member
    from J Town

    Thinking of having the frame and body of my 31 TUDOR blasted. Anyone have a reference as to prices?
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2009
  2. bubba67
    Joined: Nov 26, 2008
    Posts: 1,798

    bubba67
    Member
    from NJ

    Just had my 33 pickup done in Toms River. I think it was $ 1000-1200. for the interior and exterior of the cab, bed, 4 fenders, running boards and complete rolling chassis.
     
  3. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,227

    19Fordy
    Member

    Be careful! Lots of body panels have been warped by sand blasting because the guy doing the work didn't know the correct procedure.
     
  4. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,426

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    i had my frame done for 125 last fall..model A
     

  5. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    I just had my two piece hood done for $80. Thought it was a little high, but the owner guaranteed me that he would do the work to make sure it didn't get warped. Told him that I only had one 37 hood, so it couldn't be screwed up. It turned out great and if I did pay a little too much, it was worth the quality work.
     
  6. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    We have a local industrial shop do blasting for us. We had the Track Car's frame, 47-48 Ford front end, early Olds rearend, driveshaft, an 8inch Ford rearend, and some other oods and ends done a couple years ago for $275.
     
  7. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,426

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    the guy that did my frame said hes done many ..many bodies with out ever warping one of them..he even showed me pictures of a Mecedes 300 he did..so if that gives you any indication how much trust the owner had in his abilities to get it done with out fucking it up..The guy is like in his mid 60's and has been doing this his entire life..Think he knows how to get it done.
     
  8. Ol Deuce
    Joined: May 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,188

    Ol Deuce
    Member
    from Mt. U.S.A.

    The blaster we use charges $75 pr. hr.
     
  9. Jersey Joe 67
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 427

    Jersey Joe 67
    Member
    from J Town

    The whole warping thing gives me 2nd thoughts.

    Think i should just take mine down to metal with a sander and some good old fashioned elbow grease?
     
  10. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    down here its $80 a hour
     
  11. superputz
    Joined: Jul 22, 2008
    Posts: 6

    superputz
    Member
    from wisconsin

  12. If you have the time and space, just go buy a blaster and do it yourself. You can read till your eye's bleed about the proper technique on the interweb. It's a dirty, gritty, agrivating job but it ain't rocket surgery, besides learning something new is fun.
     
  13. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 6,877

    Special Ed
    Member

    We had a perfect 1964 GTO body that a very reputable blaster got carried away on. Lots of additional bodywork to straighten that puppy out. Beware.
     
  14. mottsrods
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 742

    mottsrods
    Member

    Old tin, ie; model a's and such, should not be sand blasted. They should be media balsted. Make sure if you're gonna pay someone else to do it, that they have the knowledge of the different media materials to do old tin.
     
  15. Gene Winfield Rod&Custom
    Joined: Mar 31, 2009
    Posts: 135

    Gene Winfield Rod&Custom
    Member
    from Mojave,Ca

    BE VERY VERY CAREFULL on WHO BLAST YOUR CAR BODY. The frame is not so critical and will not warp like your body. You would be better off to have the BODY dipped and would be well worth the extra money. It would probally only be a couple of hundred dollars difference. Dipping is so much cleaner and will not warp your body at all. Very few people can blast a car correctly. Blasting usually cost about 1200.00-1600.00 depending on how much material is on the car. Soda blasting would be safer than sand, then have the rust spots sand blasted. To dip a whole car you have to have everything removed including pot metal parts, because they will be eaten by the chemicals. Dipping is about $1800.-$2000.00. Make sure you have the body epoxy primed as soon as you get it back, or it will flash rust and make a huge mess to clean up.
    I had a customer a few years back bring me a mini cooper body. He wanted to save money to and against my wishes had it blasted. The car was basicly ruined by the blaster.
     
  16. LarzBahrs
    Joined: Apr 11, 2009
    Posts: 759

    LarzBahrs
    Member
    from Sacramento

    Honestly it would be a whole lot cheaper and more efficent to buy a portable sand blaster and a couple bags of abrasive and diy. Would cost a whole hell of a lot less.
     
  17. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,471

    ryno
    Member

    i just got a 64 riviera done. outside body only with soda and media blasting ran me 800 dollars, no damage was done. as soon as he hit filler of any kind, bondo or lead he stopped on that spot and then i ran over it with a 2" rool lock to see what was there instead of blasting away.
     
  18. 29paul
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 267

    29paul
    Member

    [​IMG]3M bristle discs work good
     
  19. enginebloch
    Joined: Feb 23, 2006
    Posts: 114

    enginebloch
    Member
    from norfolk va

    I specialize in blasting autos. It is very important to check out your blaster to see if they are capable of doing a quality job.
    Heres what you need to ask them-
    Have they done thin auto sheetmetal before?
    Do they have references?
    How long has the blaster been doing auto sheetmetal?
    What media do they use? Black Beauty is too coarse, regular sand is too soft and will warp panels EASIER than a proper one like starlite or olivine.
    If they specialize in blasting industrial parts (thick and heavy) ask if they do anything different when they blast sheetmetal. They should answer that they lower the blast pressure and use a less abrasive media.

    Soda, walnut, and plastic blasting is good for panels that have no rust. They are also safer to use on old sheetmetal than an abrasive. The downsides to these medias are that they will not remove rust and they will slightly polish the metal so the panels will need to be scuffed or etched before priming.

    For reference, I charge $100 an hour.
    A model A in good shape (no excessive rust, bondo, paint layers or undercoat) usually runs right at $1000. To break it down I would charge about 75-100 for the frame, 75-100 for all the axles, springs and bars, 500-650 for the body and doors, 150 for the fenders, 50-85 for the stock style hood. If there was any glass, chrome, stainless, or interior that needed to be masked off I would charge extra. To put primer on all the parts I would charge about 350 plus materials.
     
  20. bobj49f2
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,837

    bobj49f2
    Member

    I worked in a truck body shop for about four years and did a lot of blasting. IMO it's not worth doing the large items yourself, have some one who knows what they're doing do it. I have a 6'X6' blast cabinet I do smaller stuff in but I farm out the big stuff. It's a messy job, takes a lot of time if you don't have the proper equipment and you have to have a place to do it. The media will get all over and if you do in your back yard or garage you will have media every where and will find it hiding in places years from now.

    I had my panel truck done about five years ago, inside and out and epoxy primed for $600. I had a 8N tractor, just the main part, engine,frame and both axles blasted and primed for $500 about three years ago. You have to shop around. I found price differences of $400-500. It all depends on how much the place wants your work.
     
  21. Jersey Joe 67
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 427

    Jersey Joe 67
    Member
    from J Town

    Hey Paul, i think i'm going your route. The only thing i'm going to look into blasting may be the frame.Thanks to you and everyone else for all the advice. :)
     
  22. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,361

    Koz
    Member

    I just had two wheels done this week by a shop that blasts trucks. It cost me $60.00 and the wheels were pretty much ruined. I need to find others. In the shop here, if I want the best job possible I chemically strip the sheet metal and clean up with red scotchbrite wheels. This is somewhat labor intensive but most cars run in at about $1,200.00, labor and material. Not bad for absolutly no chance of warping.
     
  23. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    Very cool. What grit of the 3m bristle disc do you recommend to remove paint only?
     
  24. Jersey Joe 67
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 427

    Jersey Joe 67
    Member
    from J Town

    Seems soda blasting is the way to go. I hear warpage is not an issue.
     
  25. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,580

    73RR
    Member

    For all of the DIY types, the first piece of equipmet you MUST buy is a proper respirator. Don't fool around with your health, ask anyone with any form of COPD how well they get along in life.

    Youngins tend to take too many chances.....

    .
     
  26. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,188

    -Brent-
    Member

    Just paid $150 to get my car professionally media blasted. Came out really well. We disassembled it prior to blasting, made everything easier on the (and us).
     
  27. Jersey Joe 67
    Joined: Jun 12, 2008
    Posts: 427

    Jersey Joe 67
    Member
    from J Town

    Well i decided to just go out and buy a nice palm sander and some 80 grit paper and do it myself.
    Screw the blasting and havin someone else do it. I figured you buy the tool and you add it to your box and you get the satisfaction of doing things yourself.
    My 31 is pretty straight with no rot at all. Seems the previous owner just sprayed the body with paint and didn't prime or prep her right. Just some surface rust and chipping paint so i figure i'll just make it my summer project to take her down to metal and put a nice coat of primer on her until the funds allow her to get a fresh coat of paint.
    Any suggestions on a good primer to use or any sanding tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm assuming i'll go section by section and prime as i go.
     
  28. Xdrag48
    Joined: Mar 1, 2009
    Posts: 470

    Xdrag48
    Member

    I had mine soda blasted for $750.....he said $150 an hr.
     
  29. ntxcustoms
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 910

    ntxcustoms
    Member
    from dfw

    Use epoxy primer after stripping. If you are using a DA to strip the car keep the moisture to a minimum as your compressor heats up. Sucks to get the car all the way down and fling water droplets all over it.:rolleyes:
    A lock off DA helps, but be careful, you can warp a panel with a da to...
     
  30. officerfalfa
    Joined: Oct 21, 2005
    Posts: 232

    officerfalfa
    Member

    I had my '30 A coupe body blasted, prepped, and etch primed for like $950 a few years ago. Came out great and nothing got warped!
     

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