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Copper from Lowes for fuel line?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Stevie Nash, Nov 6, 2013.

  1. big vic
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 400

    big vic
    from cary il

    I used it 7 years ago and took it apart this summer and found no etching atcall and no cracking
  2. dorf
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,087

    from ohio

    why would you use copper when u can use aluminum from summit ? its got to be cheaper.
  3. I have an old Mac flare kit. I have double flared steel and copper for many years. Works every time.
  4. prpmmp
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,078


    I think it's the color he is after!! Pete
  5. Mudslinger
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,964


    I don't believe the cracking problems. A long time ago I thought maybe but after repairing 2 old craftsman air compressors that used copper lines from the sixties with no visible cracks or problems I see no reason they should fail. Hell new ones use aluminum. They quit using copper for something cheaper that will fatigue even faster.

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  6. Thumper
    Joined: Mar 7, 2005
    Posts: 1,610


    You could always tape off the fittings and paint the steel lines copper.....just an idea...:)
  7. gas pumper
    Joined: Aug 13, 2007
    Posts: 2,956

    gas pumper

    For semi-permanent and permanent solder. For removable single flare. And I think 45* But always with long nuts, I assume to better support the tube. This was a long time ago. I don't know about modern.
  8. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 34,483


    What is your issue when doing Double flares? You do chamfer the outside first, right? Like Gimpy said, should be easy peasy.
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,326


    I've taken apart quite a few chevy trucks from the 50s, only seen steel on them...except where someone added an auxiliary tank....
  10. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em

    I use a fine tooth hacksaw to cut any tubing I am going to double flare. I square it up with a file and chamfer the inside with a drill bit a few sizes bigger than the the I.D. Of the tube. I chamfer the outside with a file, and finish it all off with a thorough de-blurring on a bench mounted wire wheel.
  11. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,615


    Copper isn't legal for brake lines due to the pressure. Many of us feel that it isn't "advisable" for fuel lines due to it's tendency to work harden if it isn't supported properly. That would meaning adding extra clips or brackets and not having long unsupported runs.

    Personally I don't like to use copper tubing on automotive applications at all outside of oil pressure lines and I have had plenty of them crack right at the fitting due to vibration over the past 50 years. I'd suggest learning to bend steel tubing right and going from there. That coated green/brown tubing that the parts houses sells now doesn't bend for squat as far as I am concerned though.
  12. Diavolo
    Joined: Apr 1, 2009
    Posts: 815



    This is the thing I've only seen mentioned in this entire thread 1 time and it's something any builder should consider. When/if it splits or cracks and it catches fire or it inadvertently causes a wreck... what will your insurance do? If you built it with material that is not approved by the DOT, I can guarantee you will be left flapping in the breeze when it comes to paying for any claims from injuries or damages, not to mention lawsuits. You can also kiss goodbye any personal claim you try to apply for to fix your car.

    Go ahead and use copper. I want to see how much you like it when it fails and it burns down your car, your house, the other driver if it splits during a collision...
  13. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,275

    1. Early Hemi Tech


    Guys, get copper out of your heads. The original question was about NiCopp. We all know regular copper is a big no-no.

    Just get a good flare tool & practice. I also get better flares if I use a hacksaw ISO of tube cutter - at least the POS cutter I have. It thins out the cutting end too much & makes it split
  14. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,275

    1. Early Hemi Tech

    oh, ok.

    Yeah the Nicopp or Cunifer is expensive
  15. HellsHotRods
    Joined: Jul 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,352


    I use stainless steel half the time for fuel and brake lines. Bending and double-flaring is never a problem.... It shouldn't be if you have the right equipment. I use a mastercool hydraulic flare tool
  16. 1964countrysedan
    Joined: Apr 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,131

    from Texas

    Great,very clear,specific question but after reading all of the responses...hell I am afraid to even go near my home made copper sneak a toke now. Any suggestions?

    Like someone posted, "properly..."

    This would have made good poll thread; yes, no, don't know, don't care.
  17. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,409

    blue 49
    from Iowa

    A friend of mine has several small airplanes from the 40's that all use copper for fuel lines, most of them are probably original. Good enough for the FAA.

  18. fuchster
    Joined: May 2, 2006
    Posts: 18

    from San Diego

    Make sure is not made in China. I hate Lowes and HD for that.

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  19. 270dodge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2012
    Posts: 742

    from Ohio

    Way back when in the days of Ram chargers and the hemi Mother Mopar advised us to not ever use copper for fuel lines. The trouble is not with bending or flaring but the ability of copper to conduct heat which would cause vapor lock. Steel was and has been the choice of manufacturers . We could learn from that.
  20. NiCopp Nickel Copper Alloy Brake Line Coil - 3/8" x 25'

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