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Cooler (Temperature) Tail/Stop Bulbs

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by blown240, Aug 13, 2011.

  1. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    I keep having to replace my taillight lenses because the bulbs are melting them. Currently I have a single 1157 bulb in each light. The problem is that there is just barely enough room to get a bulb in the housing that I built. I would make the housing deeper, but there is a body support / crossmember right behind them.

    So I am looking for a nice bright bulb that will work for a taillight and brake light that wont melt my lenses. I was even considering using some LEDS because they are not hot, but I would rather not.

    Here is a pic of the taillights:

    [​IMG]

    And a few from when I made them. The lenses are 66 Chevelle:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Any input would be appreciated.
     
  2. Moloko
    Joined: Dec 14, 2005
    Posts: 726

    Moloko
    Member

    I know it's not old school, but swap to LED bulbs. 1157's are not very bright/hot at all, if you are having a problem with them I'm not sure what else you could do other than switch to a few, smaller bulbs like 5007's and 5008's, which would move the heat farther from the lens.
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2011
  3. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,698

    Weasel
    Member

    I use jamstrait LED bulbs behind the original lenses in all my rides - super bright and cool....

    www.jamstrait.com
     
  4. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    OK, so if my best option is LED, should I use the replacement style LEDS, or should I try to find a LED panel that will fill more of the lens?
     

  5. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL


    Obviously the simplest would be the LED 1157 replacement IF there is room for the LED cluster. However, a better solution for max lighting is what you suggest as a possibility...using a 'board'...but may be harder to do since you already have the lamp bucket installed (permanently ??) in the body.

    Ray
     
  6. upgrade wiring if using the bigger draw leds dunno exactly what is needed but old wires get the heat ...
     
  7. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    The lamp bucket is installed permanently in the car. The cover comes off, and the lens as well. The socket is removable.
     
  8. Are you thinking Halogens as LEDs don't draw any amps compared to fillament bulbs.
     
  9. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,341

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

    L.E.D's way better/bright/cooler temp,last way longer,
     
  10. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,341

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

    PS you may have to install a LED flasher,since they don't draw jack for voltage{if you use as blinkers.
     
  11. If you do go the led route, Remember to change to a "no-load" flasher or they wont work properly. led's dont draw enough amps to make the old school thermo flashers work.


    YEah, what duck said
     
  12. ya i'm wrong still again...
     
  13. blown240
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,814

    blown240
    Member
    from So-cal

    Does anyone know a good place to get LED boards? Ones that have dual brightness so they will do brake and tail lights. I would need one about 1 1/2 by 3 1/2 inches.
     
  14. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,341

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

  15. maniac
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    maniac
    Member

    Try this guy





    http://lambertenterprises.com/
     

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