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Converting to disc Brakes...Dumb questions.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by usedall9, Oct 16, 2007.

  1. usedall9
    Joined: Oct 30, 2006
    Posts: 423

    usedall9
    Member

    I want to convert my 61' f100 to disc brakes. My question is: Do I Have to run a dual reservoir master cylinder, or can I use my stock single reservoir. I know it's probably not the best way, but my truck is down right now because of brake issues. And Speedway has a conversion kit that is about the same price as stock drum parts. I will up grade the master cyl. and brake lines later for sure. Thanks
     
  2. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,523

    Roothawg
    Member

    You need to have the larger dual chamber m/c.
     
  3. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,304

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    well there were disc brake cars prior to dual master cylinders. I don't know if the same master cylinder would work or not though.
     
  4. metalshapes
    Joined: Nov 18, 2002
    Posts: 11,138

    metalshapes
    Member

    Maybe the single fruit jar type Master from a '65 Shelby would work.
    ( Non Power, I believe )

    Tony Branda sells them...

    Probably still have to plumb in something to get the Brake Balance Front to Rear right.
     

  5. Daddiojoe
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 123

    Daddiojoe
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    There are two reasons to have dual reservoir master cylinders:

    1. Two different circuits so in case of a line problem, etc., you don't lose all your brakes.

    2. Because drum brakes and disk brakes grab at different rates.

    A single reservoir master cylinder might work, but it would only work by letting the discs grab and the drums would be left far behind--you'd get about 50% braking.

    Cars w/ single reservoir duals (a bad idea and they didn't do it for long) would be equipped with a proportioning valve which would regulate the pressure between the discs and the drums. You might need to use one of these anyways.

    Find out what year Ford first went to master cylinders. You can probably get one for less than $50 at O'Reilly. You might need an adapter. That shouldn't be a big deal.

    My experience is with Mopars, and they use a distribution block that all of the lines go into as well. Not a bad idea.

    Brakes aren't something to be half-assed about.

    Best of luck,

    Joe
     
  6. usedall9
    Joined: Oct 30, 2006
    Posts: 423

    usedall9
    Member

    Thanks guys... I don't want to be unsafe by any means. But my stock brakes on my truck in great condition are sketcky @ best. So new mater cyl. and porportioning valve it is. Thanks for you feed back.
     
  7. Gnashty1
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 142

    Gnashty1
    Member

    I believe 1967 was the first year for the dual master cylinder.
     
  8. old dirt tracker
    Joined: Sep 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,003

    old dirt tracker
    Member
    from phoenix

    you dont absoulty need a dual m/c. you can remove the line pressure valve (looks like salt shaker lid)and add a proportion valve to the rear. you just need to monitor the level more often as the front pads wear down.by removing the valve you let the disc get full pressure and the adjustable proportion valve lets you adj the rear drums.
     
  9. ray
    Joined: Jun 25, 2001
    Posts: 3,791

    ray
    Member
    from colorado

    the dual master should be a bolt on, and shouldn't cost you more than $30 and an hour or two(i'm being generous here!) to plumb it up. you don't HAVE to swap to a dual chamber master, but when you factor in the plumbing to make the single work with your new setup, you might as well get it all taken care of while you're at it.
     
  10. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,304

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    Here's another question. Say the truck already has a distribution block. You put on a dual master cylinder. Can you plumb it back through the same distribution block and call it done?
     

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