The age old complaint about original “Junk” bulbs and the lack of light they provide. I am going to be honest I really love my T3s and I just couldn’t throw them away!! **If Anyone has any 3 prong 5-3/4 T3s burnt, non working, slightly damaged or working that have “GUIDE” printed above the T3 like this one and you don’t want it please let me know: Now for the tech... I gathered some appropriate burnt out T3s two head lights (3) prong and two high beams (2) prong. I picked up a nice NOS Hella Conversion lights. The AutoPals are great but not exactly perfect. Next I needed an empty plastic container, a ruler and some clear tape. When I did this I made sure the “split line” was at the same height all around. Next a Diamond dremel blade(EZ545), dremel chuck (EZ Lock) and a drill press that pivots and has a height lock. I offset the press so that the cutter would send the cut dust and material away from me. The height was set at the “split line” of the bulb. The press was set at medium speed. Holding the top of the bulb using the little nubs. I guided the bulb around with very light pressure against the cutting surface and made a score line. I spun the light in the same direction the cutter was spinning. After the score line was made I continued to spin the bulb three complete revolutions then let the bulb cool and clean off the cutter. Use light pressure, try to keep the bulb speed constant and try not to stop. I did about 10 cycles per bulb before the lens split. After the lens split I gently cleaned up an sharp edges on the lens. This bulb started with a white film another started with a black film. After this step the lens was washed with warm water, dish soap and a green scotch brite. They were left to dry on a paper towel. As you can see the lenses are nice and clear.
Next was the Hella lights. I started with a really rough set to practice my craft. Make sure you mark the bucket top center. The first lens I did cracked but that was because the over was not hot enough. I learned my lesson and tried again. I set my oven to 250F and preheated, the bulb was placed glass side up for 10-12 minutes. I used welding gloves to remove the bulb and proceeded to work quickly. There are little spaces around the rim where you can push in a razor blade. I first pushed in the razor then used a very thin flat screw driver. I was gentle but with conviction, slowly pushed in the screw driver. Once I slid in I gently pried the lens away from the bucket. I practiced on the crappy set first and had to bend the outer lip to get the T3 lens in. As you can see there is a 5/16” difference between original lights and the new conversion.
Now for the new ones! I peeled off the labels in the front and back and removed all rubber and plastic. I cleaned the glue off with googone and used alcohol to remove the googone. Same as before: preheat oven to 250f place bulb in face up and leave for 10-12 minutes. Removed the bulb with welding gloves, used a razor blade to get behind the glue and a slim flat screw driver to start splitting the lens from the bucket. On one or two occasions I used a scraper for leverage and slowly went around with the screw driver. Try to stay away from the reflector, the screw driver always stayed on the “shoulder” As before mark your buckets, high beams and driving lights have little divots to help you remember the “center”. They differ between bulbs but mark to be certain. Luckily the newer version of the H4 was a perfect fit for the T3 lens so no bending was necessary. Using 3m scotch-weld dp 100+, 1:1 mixing nozzle and a 50ml mixing gun I glued the lens to the reflector bucket.
Thank you to @1oldtimer for the glue idea and the BMW forum for the cooking of the Hella lights. I cooked this set because I broke the lenses last time I did this with AutoPals. Breaking the lenses out of the AutoPal were a complete and total mess and a ton of work to get the little pieces of glass out. I borrowed this from the internet somewhere in case anyone needs a diagram to wire them up. Since there is a 5/16” difference in the original lights vs this conversion you may need to use a filler between the bulb and the light bucket frame. I am using some 1/4” foam with double sided tape. It was the stuff that comes in rolls at Home Depot for use around air conditioners. **This thread is for informational purposes only, I am an idiot and take stupid risks. Don’t be an idiot like me. If you try this it is at your own risk. I will not take responsibility for your actions***
I really hate to see this.... The problem with any conversion like this is the lens was designed for the filament pattern and reflector as originally installed. Change either and the light output isn't always going where it's supposed to. Unwanted scatter can result, causing issues for oncoming drivers. I'll also note that none of these (store bought or home-brewed) are legal.
Thanks Steve! Per my last post there is a disclaimer and for entertainment purposes only. Don’t be an idiot like me * To be fair Hella has been selling these kits since the 80s. Also any high output lights that they sell at all the auto parts stores can cause issues for oncoming drivers.
I would say it's worthy of testing vs a stock sealed beam (or high output). Spread pattern side by side. BTW great write up.
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