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Technical Converting An Accel 37100T Distributor Back To Points

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Scotch Buzzard King, Apr 8, 2020.

  1. Got a huge deal on an Accel 37100T distributor, and I received it today. I bought it because I want a dual points distributor. Pulled it out of the box, turned the shaft, and something didn't sound right.

    After disassembling it, I discovered that someone converted it to a first generation Ignitor. Totally heartbroken.

    I want to convert it back to how it came, but I can't find any instructions or anything. I need help. This thing has nothing inside that resembles its former beautiful self.

    Just so you know, I'm restoring an actual gasser that was left for dead in the 1970s. There is something wonderful about the sound and smell of a points distributor.

    With that said, a points distributor is crucial for the restoration. I don't want to keep this cheesy Ignitor conversion.
     
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  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 30,030

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well unless they are brave enough to pop your distributor cap off and look and not afraid to get a breaker bar alongside their head I guess it is something critical. That said I have one of those conversions in the distributor on my boat that came with the boat and I make damned sure that I have my boat towing insurance paid when I go out in it.
    I was thinking that one of the selling points of those kits was you could pop the kit out, put points and condensers back in and go again without a lot of hassle.
    On the one in my boat they changed the plate the points sat on when they converted it and I am not sure what brand the conversion kit is.
     
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  3. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    Buzzard if your distributor is a 37000 series it should be the 2 piece housing that also has a support bearing cover under the cap that is held on with 3 allen head countersunk screws,if so when you get the cover off the points sets and condenser should screw directly to the floor of the aluminum housing.if there is some kind of steel plate in there it is part of the conversion and needs to come out,once you can see the floor of the bowl you will 2 sets of threaded holes with a milled out circle between them this there to provide clearance for the pivot pin of the breaker arm,you will also see a threaded hole off by itself that is the one for the condenser bracket.if the upper end of the shaft for the cam has any rust on you will want to clean it off the upper bearing is a slip fit but is fairly tight so any rust will make it a bear to get off.These are great distributors and in my opinion are some of the best ever made.Just make sure its not a BEI because that is not a conversion but it shouldn't have a part number starting with 37 if it is.
     
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  4. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,852

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Finally! Someone after my own heart!

    I can't help you, as I have no knowledge of these, but I wish you good luck. It seems like there is a lot of help on here for you!
     
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  5. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 7,230

    Budget36
    Member

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  6. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    The only downside to the accel 37000 series is if you have to have a vacuum advance distributor keep walkin because they didn't make these with that,their street distributors yes but not the 37's.
     
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  7. I appreciate all the feedback. Does anyone have a picture of the inside of a 37100 distributor with the points left in the factory position?

    Starlinerdude, your input is incredible. If anyone can place a picture to his description, I'd be appreciative.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. It's not a picture, but it'll do...

     
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  9. Now that that's settled, does anyone have a parts list for the replacement parts for an Accel 37100T? Internet searches are absolutely worthless in this regard.

    I need correct part numbers for points and the condenser. Anything else I might need, feedback is welcome...
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. It seems to fit my memory that they use standard Gm points and condensers. The last time I used one of these was in the 1970's so I maybe incorrect. If your searching turned up no info, I think parts will be the same results. Sorry I can't help much.
     
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  11. onetrickpony
    Joined: Sep 21, 2010
    Posts: 529

    onetrickpony
    Member
    from Texas

    That distributor used the same points as a V8 GM car. Not the factory dual points type, but two of the single point sets with the hex adjustment screw. Be aware that some brands of points would not work well due to a clip that protruded from the bottom. Accel was made by Echlin, the same company that makes the top grade NAPA ignition parts. The main difference was that the Accel points had a stiffer spring for more RPM without floating. Some guys would just double up the spring on stock points adding a spring from an old set to the new points. This usually resulting in shorter life of the rubbing block, though. The condenser used came from the same source.

    IIRC, the cap and rotor were an old Chrysler part upgraded with better material and brass contacts.
     
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  12. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    I believe wfo and one trick pony are right I think they use the same point set as the window cap GM's.The accel made point sets were very high quality and sturdy and you had a choice of 23 or 32 oz.spring tension,but they are kind of hard to find they may be available new from sources but they're expensivethe last ones I saw on ebay were like 35-40 bucks a piece.I know Blue streak and Echlin at one time made the GM point sets in hi and low spring tension too but I don't know if they still do,unless your running super high rpm I'd stick with the 23 anyway because the 32 wore the rubbing block down pretty fast and required frequent regapping.
     
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  13. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    When these things were new they had a foil like sticker on them that listed the accel part numbers on them for the point sets and condenser when I get a chance I'll dig out one of mine that still has the sticker and see if I can get a pic of it.Worst case scenario you may be able to cross reference that number.
     
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  14. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    I guess if I had read one trick pony's whole post I could have saved a lot of typing.
     
  15. Hahaha. Its all good. :)
     
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  16. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    Haven't been able to find the one with the legible sticker yet but I'm still looking,I'll find it sooner or later.
     
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  17. I found the set you were talking about. 8101ACC is the part number for the 23oz points set with the condenser.

    Unfortunately, it doesn't look like Holley makes a set anymore without the condenser, so if you need two sets of points you'll always have an extra condenser.
     
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  18. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,194

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    You'll need that second condenser since finding 1 good one is harder than finding a bad Pertronix 1. Is an NOS wrist pin the next crucial part?:confused:
     
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  19. Color me dense, but I have no idea what you are talking about. Do you mean the pin that holds the gear to the shaft?

    The next crucial part for me is this thing:

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,385

    GMC BUBBA
    Member

    Send some more pictures i have a basket full of these Accels and can get ya what ever ya want ....... Cheap like in shipping only !!!!! rbg :>)
     
  21. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,385

    GMC BUBBA
    Member

    AND that napa parts number for the good points is CS786
     
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  22. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,385

    GMC BUBBA
    Member

    And a RR175 condensor
     
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  23. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    Scotch the primary wire you want looks quite different than the pic,it looks like 2 wires1 red and 1 black molded together with a grommet where it passes thru the body then at the end that hooks to the coil they both join into a single connector,1 of the wires about in the middle splits away and has a bullet connector so that you can disconnect it and use a dwell meter to set the gap.
     
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  24. I'd like to see a picture of this thing.

    I'm sending you a private message...
     
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  25. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,385

    GMC BUBBA
    Member

    HERES WHAT WAS IN THE BARN JUST TELL ME WHAT YA NEED ??? ACCEL DIST.jpg
     
  26. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    Scotch,Bubba's pic shows that primary wire coming thru the side of the housing thru the round black grommet,the red and black wires.His pic also shows the sticker with the part numbers.Bubba are all those chevy distributors is that one standing up for a ford?
     
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  27. GMC BUBBA
    Joined: Jun 15, 2006
    Posts: 3,385

    GMC BUBBA
    Member

    Yes one is for a Ford engine , Scotch bought the entire box will ship to him next week...
     
  28. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    Scotch when you get those,if you don't have a use for the ford distributor I may be interested in it.
     
  29. Starlinerdude
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 149

    Starlinerdude
    Member
    from Washington

    Scotch,the pic you posted above of the black primary wire is that something available new?It looks like the one for a factory ford dualpoint.
     

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