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Technical Converting a model A banjo axle to juice brakes

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dave Huelke, May 8, 2019.

  1. Dave Huelke
    Joined: Feb 22, 2016
    Posts: 26

    Dave Huelke

    OK so no replies you should just get a 40 banjo and be done with it.

    I have a 27 T that I am putting a V8-60 in and since it is only 60 horse power on a good day I thought that a model A banjo with a T spring would fit just fine. Remember this isn't a top fuel pro stock grand touring blah blah blah. It's a cool little 1,000 pound two seater car.

    So the question is how to add juice brakes to a model A banjo. Change out the backing plates to juice plates? I do not think that the axle holes are the same. No problem I can weld in a patch and reinforcement.

    Is there a better way?
  2. Boden
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 131


    Driller out. Or drill and tap the rear. Or make a flange to bolt to the rear to accept juice backing plates.

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  3. Deescott
    Joined: Mar 1, 2017
    Posts: 202


    Holes are same. But the perch will hit the backing plate. Notch the backing plate where it hits, or clock the backing plate. It’s easy, but your brake line will be a tight fit but totally doable. Nothing wrong with an A rear if there’s not a lot of torque. People will tell you different for sure. Look on FORDBARN or just google how to do this it will be easy to find.
  4. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,701


    Beyond whats already been said which is correct the drum will hit the backing plate so you'll have to either shim the taper or clearance the drum ( grind the edge a little) or the backing plate so it doesn't rub. You'll see. Just bolt it together and fix the problems. Its very straight forward. Ive driven model A axles very hard they're tougher than they get credit for.
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  5. Personally I try to think for myself and keep it simple. Yes, first gen hyd brakes will mount on a Model A rear axle and work just fine. I did mine just a bit different. I didn't want to mess with the issue of Spring perch and wheel cyl. so I swapped sides and turned backing plates 180* and put things together. Been just fine for 15 years. I was even able to hook up the E-Brakes. Look close and you'll see the brake line connected on the Bottom of the plate. I even used my Stock A mounted pedal to operate the 39-48 master.
    31 C-Dan; 003.jpg 31 C-Dan; 005.jpg
    continentaljohn and adam401 like this.
  6. Dave Huelke
    Joined: Feb 22, 2016
    Posts: 26

    Dave Huelke

    So you swapped side to side and top to bottom? What years are gen one. Love your reply
  7. @Pist-n-Broke How hard was it to bleed the rear cylinders? Did you have to do anything out of the ordinary to bleed?
  8. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,790


    I'm interested
  9. First generation hyd brakes meaning 39-48. Yes I'm aware there was a change even in those years in the adjusters. Once you have a matching set of backing plates in your hands set one in place as Ford had them stock and you'll see the issue. Now flip and rotate and you'll see it disappear, it's that simple.

    Brett; I've been hammered to death over the years (70+of them)for my way of looking at things. Ya see I believe hard parts don't have a clue what they are mounted to or how they are even mounted. They will just do what they are intended to do the best they can. In the case of the bleeder valve on the bottom I simply trusted the Law of Physics in that solids will travel down and air will travel up, and it works. It did not involve any Voo-Doo or out of the Ordinary technique to get er done. Once bled the best one can do it there just may be a small dot of air left behind. I think if there is it will also find it's way out and up to the Master being it is mounted above the wheel cyl's. At any rate I have a very solid pedal and good working brakes. Were they not, Id be looking to change something till they were. Stopping is very important!
    barrnone50 likes this.
  10. Pist-n-Broke likes this.

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