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Concrete shop floor coating

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by firehawgcfd, Feb 3, 2012.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,810

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    So what you are telling me is that your knees are destroyed and possibly your back too :D

    And no, there are not coatings capable of that.
    I have spent over 35 years as a professional welder and welding instructor and I will destroy any coating you care to come up with.

    Welding sparks and slag thrown off from a cutting torch are quick death to any coating, leaving burn marks and melt tracks or blisters etc etc.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2012
  2. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,810

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    If you had been asking about floor color for a new concrete pour, I would have advised you to look into concrete mix in coloring -hardener powder.

    It puts a nice color all the way through the concrete mix and leaves a nice hard colored surface after finishing.

    There are lots of colors available and we did the floor in my fathers shop with a nice brick red color.

    It looks amazing and is durable and can stand up to pretty much anything a welder can throw at it.

    Much superior to any kind of coating.
     
  3. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,428

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Just be happy with the natural patina of the concrete..nothin wrong with it
     
  4. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 6,265

    Special Ed
    Member

    The USA put a man on the moon. More than once. And you honestly don't believe we can come up with a coating that can withstand a few sparks? Really? With all due respect, you fellows up in the Great White North need to step into the 21st century.... :cool:
     
  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,810

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Did you really ?? I thought it was a hollywood style set in a secret location ;) :D

    And no, no coating like that. And I'm talking about more than just a few sparks. Welding makes a sparks, some processes more than others. A cutting torch is something all together different and we are talking much more than a few sparks. Add a plasma cutter into the mix and we are talking floor coating death. :D
     
  6. Tricknology
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 546

    Tricknology
    Member
    from DETROIT

    GO TO HOME DEPOT


    BUY LATEX PORCH AND CONCRET FLOOR PAINT ABOUT $15 A GALLON, YOU WILL NEED 2 GALLONS FOR A 900 SQ FT SHOP.

    it works great, i use light grey color.

    holds up to welding and grinding.

    once a year blow out the garage and repaint,,,it takes about 40 minutes,,,i just pour a small amout on a small section of the floor and roll it out with a roller,,,as fast as you can roll is how fast it gets done.

    easy cheap,,,holds up to gas and brake fluid...

    epoxy floors are expensive and they chip and burn,,and they take a lot of time.
     
  7. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 6,265

    Special Ed
    Member


    Nope. Sorry. You're still wrong. We have coatings here that can quite literally withstand more heat than the concrete that it's applied to. It deflects the heat. Similar situation as our spaceships (that's why I mentioned it in a previous post). It's a coating that uses ceramic bead technology. Flaking, spalling, and cracking of the concrete substrate can, and will take place if you apply the heat directly from a plasma cutter or torch directly to the concrete itself (without any coating). At least that's what happens here in America... I have no idea what you are doing north of the border with your own personal torches and concrete, though...:rolleyes: <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
     
  8. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 7,383

    noboD
    Member

    What is the brand name of this product?
     
  9. vg62truck
    Joined: Dec 17, 2011
    Posts: 50

    vg62truck
    Member

    The best longest lasting most rewarding floor coating I have found is just cover your existing floor with more old cars and trucks.

    For most of us paint will do. Best if done before it is occupied.. These are mostly small shops and garages, not lobbies in five star hotels.

    Enjoy the build, enjoy your ride, sweep the floor!
     
  10. Offset
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 1,700

    Offset
    Member
    from Canada

    When it came time to coat the new cement floor in my garage I did ask a lot of questions and eventually purchased a two part epoxy finish. Bought all the prep materials that were recommended and it turned out just beautiful. I will not mention the product name because I do not think it was the product rather it was an important point that someone on the first page mentioned and that is a vapor barrier under the concrete. I missed that step although the foundation was built to code no one ever mentioned the barrier.

    I parked my car over the winter and in the spring the coating came off in sheets under the car and anywhere things were stored. Water had wicked through the concrete and simply and neatly removed the coating. I am not sure if it is lack of air movement or perhaps temperature changes under stored items but it did not work. To redo the floor to add a vapor barrier would be prohibitively expensive.

    While you can leave concrete natural the problem is dust, I do not think it ever end until the floor is gone, swept away. While some claim that there are materials that will withstand the welding process I doubt there are any that will withstand water wicking through concrete. I will add that this is probably a geographic thing however I am positive it is not a "north of the border" thing. Maybe I should have had the Canada Arm mix the epoxy and our contribution to the space program could have been but to a real test!!!

    Good luck with you choice and perhaps you will update us over time to let us know how it all worked out.
     
  11. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,093

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    On burning the finish, I've worked on some really nice floors. In one shop we had these burn blankets for car protection, and when a job required a torch or plasma I'd cover the floor with one of em to keep it nice. Barring that, a piece of used sheet metal could make a nice barrier too. If it's an all welding/burning shop then floor coating might be a moot point, but many of us do more than that. Just a thought...
     
  12. Stude Kurt
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 9

    Stude Kurt
    Member
    from Illinois

    Nope..... But I did spill some POR 15 gas tank sealer on my shop floor maybe 10 years ago....... Still there and looks like I did it yesterday.
     
  13. I used Pittsburgh Paint Polyamide Epoxy two-part paint on my floor 15 years ago with very good success. No problems with solvents, brake fluid, etc. I try to wipe them up when I see them but no real problems with the paint.
     
  14. studhud
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,403

    studhud
    Member

    I am not an expert but the best way i determined after seeing lots of different ideas and products was to grind, stain, densify, polish and then put a sacrificial sealer on it like wax. That's the thinking behind a polished floor system. Go to www.wrmeadows.com
    I did a lot of research then used there products. I have seen too Many epoxy floors have to be removed.
    Heres the floor I did in my garage
    First pic is of it ground exposing the aggregate and leveling it
    Second is of it stained.
    Then it got the densifier
    Then it was polished from 200 grit to 3000 grit pads
    The sealer on top "basically" a wax that wears to protect the floor was belletrix
    Hope that helps
    Last pic is it done
    Dave Hitch
    FBBF
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 5, 2012
  15. harley rider
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 527

    harley rider
    Member

    I agree. I built a new shop last summer . did a lot of reserch on floor coatings. found what is called concrete dinsifier. I used this product on the floor it was easy to apply.it leaves the natural finish . the thing I like most is oil spills kind of bead up dont soak in and cleans up easy. great product.
     
  16. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,476

    BLUDICE
    Member

    Before buying any product - read the small print concerning what's under the floor. Most coating will not last if there is too high of moisture in the ground under the concrete. To keep this from happening today contractors put a heavy mil poly sheeting down before pouring the concrete. This is noted in most all warranties of concrete coatings.
     
  17. firehawgcfd
    Joined: Sep 13, 2009
    Posts: 40

    firehawgcfd
    Member

    Found some negative reviews for this company and there product on line. Problems with the product not adhering to the floor as well as customer service problems when trying to resolve the issue. In light of this and after considering many of the points brought up in this thread I have decided to explore some of the better options that have been suggested in this thread.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2012
  18. jophus
    Joined: Jan 3, 2012
    Posts: 101

    jophus
    Member

    Check out LegacyIndustrial.net. I recently applied their HD-015 product in my new garage. Happy so far. I do a lot of welding and grinding in my garage and haven't seen any burns yet. Good luck.
     
  19. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,810

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Of course the name and source of this magical mystery coating will never be revealed. :)

    And if it was you would find that the price per square foot to coat your floor would be similar to coating your floor with hundred dollar bills. :D
     
  20. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 6,265

    Special Ed
    Member

    Simply Google: "ceramic coatings" ...:)
    All the information your little heart desires is right at your fingertips. Or is this too difficult of a task for you to perform? :rolleyes:
     
  21. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,810

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    As we can see the "mystery coating " with the magical properties has still not been revealed. All we get is "look it up " :)

    Seems a little fishy to me :D
     
  22. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 6,265

    Special Ed
    Member

    What's with the drama, dude? What is your problem? Just grow up, for god's sake...
    I used a concrete finish by Super-Krete with ceramic beads. Held up to everything that I could throw at it. There are dozens of proprietary products out there by dozens of companies. Do I need to hold your hand? Why are you attempting to argue about something that you are so obviously uneducated about? :cool:
     
  23. My $.02 is this. If you want your shop to have a shiny floor to slip and fall down on, it won't apply.
    Put a vapor barrier down before mud is poured. Have the guys running the power trowels make a smooth, but not polished finish. Let it dry, spray it with whatever sealer that will wear off eventually.
    Own a warehouse grade broom that looks like a house broom, but rougher broom corn and not cut at an angle. Use the wide pushbroom when you need to cover acres instead of under and around stuff.
    Make a pushbroom from a broom handle and a 2x4 to grind in your oil dry clay stuff, to grind out stains from where you've worked. You may need to just get down on your knees with a short piece of 2x4 to get down on it.
    Painted floors=bust your ass when wet with water and worse with oil.
    Damn, keep it simple. Makes for a little more work, but less work in the long run.
     
  24. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,810

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Finally :D That was like pulling teeth from chickens :)
    I still don't believe that stuff would survive an industrial welding shop, no way.
     
  25. rick finch
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,003

    rick finch
    Member

    We could tell you, but Homeland Security would fry our asses. Chill out dude, Ed was a flooring contractor for years, consider the possibility he just might know what the hell he's talking about....eh.;)
     
  26. Special Ed
    Joined: Nov 1, 2007
    Posts: 6,265

    Special Ed
    Member

    You must have an awful lot of time on your hands to ask questions that you already know all the answers to. If your mind was already made up, why did you bother to ask? Simply for the drama? That is childish, and serves no purpose. This forum is for traditional hotrods and customs. This thread is only very borderline on-topic, but thanks to you it stopped being relevant long ago....
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2012
  27. 29sportcoupe
    Joined: Jan 14, 2008
    Posts: 350

    29sportcoupe
    Member
    from arizona

    Fucking girls.....

    Bottom line is any paint/coating you put on the ground will come up. Eventually. I acid stained my concrete and put a solvent based clear over it. It is blotchy, chips, and scratches. It looks old and I think it is perfect, love it. My next shop will be the sand and polish option, no coating.

    And yes, I have been a painting contractor for 25 years.[​IMG]
     
  28. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,555

    zman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Garner, NC

    So you've never worked in a facility where someone actually spent the money and time to put down a real industrial epoxy floor. Not our fault. :rolleyes:
     
  29. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,093

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Most of us will never do more than maybe a 3 car garage at best. Maybe 600sqft. That's not a lot of labor or expense if you really want a bright clean floor. I recently did 8000sqft, the hard way like I mentioned earlier, and fork lifts, trucks, snow and salt, dragging pallets, none of it pulled or damaged the finish. It's more sensitive when it's new. Years ago I did 4000sqft in my 1st shop, then 5000 in the next one. Do what works and don't try to save a buck on mat'l. That's the biggest "secret" to a good coating. In all of those experiences, just like an automotive finish, material thickness is a key element. Too much will peel very easy, especially when you drop that heavy chunk of iron on it to get the chip started. "Stain" the concrete, get it to soak in, you'll have no issues for decades. The things that stain the epoxy range from washer solvent to paint, long term brake fluid exposure (like an overnight leak), and layout dye like machinist bluing. Not much else will hurt it. The vapor barrier is something that's probably figured out in new construction. None of us need a nice floor so bad that we'll re-pour for that. But, if you soak the concrete even that's a moot point. If you think about it, it's pretty obvious. What nobody metioned though, and most likely the number 1 cause of catastrophic failure, is when the etching solution is not completely neutralized. Within a year the concrete will react with the etching mat'l and lift as much as 1/4" of floor, turning the concrete to dust and stone. Water and ammonia or TSP (trisodium phosphate) will kill the etch and preserve your labors. I rinsed the last floor, all 8000sqft, 3 different times to be sure, and I used ammonia to kill the acid. Stick with the basics and you'll never go wrong.
     
  30. wfsfab610
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 19

    wfsfab610
    Member

    This thread has been prettty informative.I used a company called Epoxy coat, good stuff but has issues. Cant take a heavy socket being dropped without chipping, and welding sparks leave a trail till its mopped. but one thing I have found out in the past 5 years about my floors is you can spend all your time worrying about your floors or you can just build your cars. Somtimes I just wish that my floors were plain jane. I think that every coating will give somebody a heartache in some way
     

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