Stay away from this chart. This chart will give you voltage drops of up to 8%, with drops of 5% being common. If you want bright lights and everything to work properly, you need to keep TOTAL voltage drop in your circuits to under 5%, 3% would be better. These drops are additive; if you drop 5% going from A to B, then another 5% going from B to C, by the time you get to C you're down over 10%. It's misinformation like this that causes guys to have to install relays to get lights and stuff to work right....
" It's misinformation like this that causes guys to have to install relays to get lights and stuff to work right..." I read the OP, AZguy has plans to "convert to 12V neg. ground, is considering a modern fuse block and stated " I don't plan on keeping stock gauges, lights, or switches.". Well, I would say a modern forward lighting circuit, complete with relays that are grouind controled, would not be out of the norm, in this case. If originality is not the goal, I will shy away from running full voltage through switches when ever possible. No disproportionate voltage drops and bright lights to boot!
Not to dispute any of the above. If you're looking for a fuse panel, try this. I used one years ago in my 'bird. The connections are fine thread, similar the European wiring methods. In 15 years I've never had a connection failure at the panel. If you've got everything else it might be an option. http://www.centechwire.com/Fuse-Panels_c3.htm
Yup, I agree with @miker98038 Call Centech, and they will put together a kit for you. The wires are not connected to the fuse panel, so you can wire things from the component to the fuse panel without dealing with a bunch of wires in your way that aren't connected yet. Use them on every car.
I'll stand by my statement. As an example, using the 15 amp line and the 'recommended' wire sizes will result in voltage drop percentages per given length of (reading left to right) 2.5, 4, 5.6, 8, 4.75, 6.3 and 5. As I try for 3% total circuit drop or less, and would consider 5% as the absolute upper limit, this would not be acceptable. Sure, you could add relays and if the relay circuit path is short enough, mitigate this to a degree. But using big enough wire to start with is the smarter move... There's also another consideration; fire hazard. Excessive drops create heat, and heat is the enemy of electrical systems. Plus, using undersized wire means you're probably overfusing it; in the above example, the first four numbers are for #18 wire which is only rated for 6 amps. That 15 amp circuit will have a 20 amp fuse, so you're opening the door to possibly applying over 300% of its rating. http://www.calculator.net/voltage-d...e=12.5&distanceunit=feet&eres=15&x=67&y=17 For a thorough discussion of selecting wire sizes (among other things), look here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wiring-101.843579/
Yea I'm not going for a restoration. Plus I have 2 complete original dashes with gauges so I'll only be cutting and modifying one of them. That's a good looking panel and it has the flashers unlike most of the panels I've seen. Thanks for all the good info, those are the kind of number I need. If I don't go with a kit I definitely plan on running a little heavier gauge than I need everywhere. I'm not going to skimp on wire sizes and end up burning my car and garage/ house down. Yesterday after driving around the neighborhood fine I parked it and a few hours went to go back into the garage. The battery was completely dead. The battery now drains almost immediatly if it's connected to the car so it looks like one of those bare wires has shifted somewhere and shorted against something. So the re wire has been moved up to my next project on my list. Not worth tracking down the short if I'm going to re wire anyway plus it could be almost any of the wiring that's in there now.
I have both made my own harness and after market harnesses. Make your own is not all that difficult but probably not much cheaper either. The good after market harnesses will come with relays as part of the fuse box and all the wires will be marked the entire length of the wire. If I were starting from scratch I would probably go the after market route. Make sure to get a good wire crisper, I got one from Mac Tool that crimps around the entire wire $40 well worth the cost for peace of mind. Also if you go the make it yourself route use the new wire terminals that have the shrink wrap as part of the connector, they are water proof and easy to use. Good luck with your project. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Napa sells them! I have one in mine and do not think twice about it. Of course my car is basic without power anything. I would also solder any connections even if you crimp them. Makes a much better connection. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used the EZwire kit on mine. Not bad in my opinion. Great kit for the money. I soldiered every connection so it took a little longer. I would never recommend to anyone to do the black wire kit. The wires should be hidden anyways. You will thank yourself later when troubleshooting. I also invested in waterproof connectors off amazon for things like lights and turn signals.
I used a Kwikwire kit to wire my 49 Buick. I had no problems what so ever and everything worked first try. Wires labeled their entire length, good instructions, and I believe it's made in the USA. You can buy a kit that has as many circuits as you will need, so less unused wires to mess with.
I used the Kwik Wire on my Ford, their GenII GM harness and it was fairly easy to do. The instructions were great, quality of everything was good too.
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