I assembled my engine almost 2 years ago and am finally ready to fire it and break in the cam. The cam lube that came with the cam was different than what I remember when I had used a crane cam years ago. This lube is red and is a heavy liquid. Heavier than STP, but it does slowly run. So after two years of sitting, with an occasional turn over to position pistons for distributor timing, etc. Has the lube dripped off the cam lobes? Before I buttoned up the engine you could see drips on the lower side of the lobes. I never noticed any dripping off, but it has now been a couple of years. I primed the oil pump a couple of weeks ago. Should I re-lube the lobes. (which would be a pain.)
The old Crane stuff was the grey paste ? Good stuff and didn't run off but sadly Crane has gone the way of the dinosaurs. If it was me I'd go to the local GM parts dept and get a bottle of GM EOS "Engine Oil Supplement" It's loaded with ZDDP, the stuff that's missing from most modern oil and the supposed cause of most cam failures with new cams. Add it to your break in oil and run it.
I would pull distr and use a drill to spin oil pump until you get pressure for a while. You'll hear the oil go thru the block passages. The only thing i'd add to the oil is campcam #159 breakin lube, it'll have the zinc and other elements now missing in the oil and it'll help protect the cam until it is broken in.
I've had the same concerns, which is why I waited till late in the build to assemble my engine. Just used a mockup for earlier stuff. But that ain't gonna do you much good now, as yours is already assembled! Unless you have extremely high valve spring pressure, I think you'll be OK. If you have true dual springs (not just springs with flat damper inside), then you need to remove the inner springs until you break in the cam. In fact you could even install some lower tension springs for the break in. Some builders of high spring pressure flat tappet engines even use a set of low ratio rocker arms for break in. The low lift resulting from low ratio lowers spring pressure over the nose. Dave
I would at least relube the lifters. If your motor is out of the car why not redo the whole thing? I'd seriously look into using some weaker break in springs on your heads too. With all the problems people have been naving with lobes going flat, it's worth taking special care.
I have one, well two of them, and will be adding one to the oil. I also bought some truck oil a while back that has a higher zinc content in it that is my break in oil. Already have done that, and will do it one more time before starting the engine. As noted above I have some GM EOES that I am using. I had thought of that also, but it is a mild cam and has only the single spring with dampers.
I have a large bottle of Molybdenum Disulfide powder, I mix this with oil and make my own paste. This is the gray stuff that used to come with camshaft for breakin...there is reportedly a shortage of this stuff...who knows...I found mine at a military surplus place for just a few bucks..I have never gualled a camshaft using this stuff..
Thought of re-lubing the lifters also, was hoping not to have to as I will have to replace the rocker nuts (It's a ford 289), which is not that big of a deal. The engine is in the frame only, so everything is very accessible.
I haven't ever pulled the cam on a 289. Do you have to pull the pan? I'd pull the whole thing out and do it again. I did everthing I was supposed to on my BBC and one of my lifters still ended up with a burr on it. (I pulled the intake to look at the cam after break-in as I was super paranoid about it going flat.) I'm glad I did. BTW I will never use a Comp Cam again..... I hope everything works out for you.
Yes you do have to pull the pan, or should, to remove the timing cover. I believe you can get a cover kit that has part of the pan gasket, but I would just pull the pan. I have always used Crane cams, but the mechanic that machined the engine recommended Comp. I will have to give it some thought as to what I am going to do. I did ask Comp Cams what they thought, but have not heard back from them yet. As it was last week that I asked I am beginning to believe that I won't hear back.
I also like Crane cams, that's what will be going in next. Lot's of Comp Cams horror stories on the net. They like to blame the oil a lot. I used Rottella, the older stuff with the added zinc and GM EOS. So my oil should have been fine. The only thing I didn't use was the weak break in springs, but my springs are only singles.
Where did you plan on getting the Crane cam or do you have one stashed away ? You do know they're out of business right ? Sad day for hot rodders & racers everywhere but they are gone. They are sorta back in business under new ownership but at the moment are only making motorcycle parts the last I knew.
Damn man, this has just bummed me out. I guess I don't get out much. I love the little Crane 224/234 split duration that I have in my daily. Yes it is sad....
Why don't you pull the intake and lifters, then apply some of this Moroso #35000 to the cam and lifters? Or, do an online search for 'Crane 990021' as a number of places say they still have some in stock. <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width=590 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Moroso Moly Paste™ Assembly Lube [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- heading: end heading and sub-heading --><!-- category_notes: start category notes --> <!-- category_notes: start pgroup text and full width images --><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1][/SIZE][/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- display full width parent image(s) --> <CENTER><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><CENTER> [FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-2]No. 35000</CENTER>[/SIZE][/FONT]</TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></CENTER><!-- category_notes: end category notes --> <!-- start images table --><CENTER><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR></TR></TBODY></TABLE></CENTER> <!-- End images table --><!--- Place holder for part section >>>> moved to bottom of page after select statement --><!-- Start Main Table --><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%" bgColor=#ffffff><CENTER></CENTER> <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=8 width="100%" bgColor=#cc0001 border=1><TBODY><TR><TD>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-1] Heavy-duty assembly lubricant is specially formulated to reduce friction and wear on all metal surfaces Extends the life of parts subjected to extreme heat during racing Contains molybdenum disulfide (MoS2), which greatly reduces friction and wear Moly formula coats surfaces with film that chemically bonds itself to metals, filling in the microscopic "hills and valleys" present in all metal surfaces Surface areas coated with Moly Paste™ retain an unbroken film of lubricant that reduces metal to metal contact and reduces risk of component failure Recommended for use on cams, lifters, bearings, gears, etc. Very effective when storing an engine [/SIZE][/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>[FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Note: Do not use on piston rings and cylinder walls[/SIZE][/FONT] </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!--- START Part, QandA, TechTips etc --><!-- Start product list --><TABLE width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width=590 bgColor=#eeeeee border=1><TBODY><TR bgColor=#cc0001><TD vAlign=bottom align=left>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-2]No.[/SIZE][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=bottom align=left>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-2]Description/Application[/SIZE][/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left width=70>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-2]35000 [/SIZE][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left width=520>[FONT=Arial,Helvetica][SIZE=-2]Moly Paste™ Assembly Lube, 4 oz. tube[/SIZE][/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I use the GM stuff, the Crane stuff or the Lucas stuff--have never lost a cam yet-use Crane, Sig, Elgin or Chevrolet cams --bought several bottles of Crane stuff when i heard they were gone--also went to Kragen and had them ck inventory--got two more Crane 266 degree-440 lift cam and lifter sets (at a closeout price too!)--they still had a few in stock two weeks ago-but no more cam lube--the circle track guys bought it all
I believe that's basically the same goop as the Crane stuff except the Crane stuff has graphite added which is what gives it the grey color. I still have a tub of the Crane stuff that's probably enough to do 100+ cams so I guess I'm good to go.
Just got an email back from Comp Cams. Last week I asked them what they thought. Here is the reply: I would recommend putting some type of assembly lube on the bottom of the lifters and drop them back in. If you already have the motor buttoned up, I wouldn't worry about opening it back up to put lube in there, but if you can get something extra on the cam, go for it. Thanks, William D Hood Comp Cams Even though he says if it is together not to worry, he does say he recommends lubing the lifters. With the problem lately with cams it will give me piece of mind if I pull the intake and lube the bottoms of the lifters. Oh well.
I would pull the intake , lifters and re lube the liters and put some extra on the bottom . Make sure you use " Break in oil" that has lots a ZDDP in it . Don't forget to use a drill and prime that engine real good till it holds good pressure . One the cam lube , I use ARP , very sticky . Goes on and stays there . I agree , Crane had the BEST cam lube , cams & rockers ever made ! I don't think anything would stay there for 2 years ! RetroJim
ZZDP Plus is an alliance vendor. They have an additive to replace th missing zinc in modern oil. Ordered as an Alliance member will get you a discount. Frank
Will do. I posted a tech for tech week on making mufflers for my lake headers that I promised to post some sound for, so you will get sound also. I have decided to do just that. I believe I have a old tube of some moly assembly lube that everyone has been talking about. I also have the GM EOS for the break in. Have already primed, and will do again just before firing it up. Hopefully in a couple of weeks as I have a few more things that have to get done first.
Thanks. I'm pretty sure I will be alright for zinc with the EOS and the oil for diesel trucks I got when I put the engine together.
crane sells an assembly lube full of ZDDP that you just pour in the oil. drain after break-in and add some more every oil change.
I would flip the eng & pull the pan. You will be able to access the cam to at least get a fair amount of cam lube on the bottom of the cam. I had to do this same procedure to my eng. The cam has lasted 9 years so far
Sunday I pulled the intake and removed the lifters and put some moly lube paste on the bottoms then rotated the crank with just the lifter weight to spread the lube. The engine is back together and waiting for a dry weekend so I can roll the chassis out and fire it up. With the engine already in the frame I didn't pull the pan as mentioned above. If it was still on the engine stand I would have done it that way.
I took Friday off work and fired up the engine and broke in the cam. No problems. I posted a video with sound in a thread I did for tech week on making the mufflers for my headers, if you want a listen. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=436738
Good news, I just read, they are alive and well. Hope they can survive. Crane people have always covered their parts with me.
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