Any info on them and the quality? I know many Cokers are Biasply and Radir has radials. But I think Coker now has radials also. I want some cheater/pie crust tires out back on the `55. Most likely white walled. I see many of these tires on members pictures and avatars. They give em the nastolgic look I am after...I did some searching on here, and really didnt come up with much...
Mooneyes has hurst whitewall cheaters for like $140. That's the best price that I have found, but I don't have any so I don't really know about the quailty
I went with the Radir's, they are sweet, a little bit higher in price but the are the real deals, made by M/T they are not retreads, you need to check to see if the others you're looking at might be re-caps.
Isn't there an Alliance Member on the forum that sells Hurst? I'm hankering for a pair? They're bias-plies,right?
So Hurst are biasply? That means not the best traction. If they are a cheater slick, wouldnt they still get some traction? For the money that radir/hurst cost, I just want the one that will last the longest is all...I will be dropping the clutch from time to time, to raise hell on these back roads...But I guess I could throw some other rubber on it, for doing that though...
Hurst are not bias ply they are a recapped radial. I just got a pair on monday and I could'nt be any happier with them. I compared all of the companies and hurst was the cheapest for a pie crust cheater slick. I just order directly from Hurst. My buddy ordered his from Mooneyes and it took twice as long to get them
I run the Coker bias wide whites and its like driving a roller skate!!! No traction even at highway speed. I am changing to radials soon. I would say if you want to drive your car put radials on it!!!
? did you try going to the source? http://store.coker.com/?__utma=1.93...c|utmctr=coker tire&__utmv=-&__utmk=198956847
Coker has the radials that have wide whites, they don't look exactly like bias ply's, but it still has the old school look. Might be acceptable if you're throwing them under a fendered car.
Some of you are saying the bias are like riding on skates/ice...Eff that noise. I will have to have radials for sure then. Thanks for replies and opinions...
Bias are fine, don't buy the hype. You just don't mix bias and radials. I have a cruiser that I put radials on because I'm a cheap ass. For an A, a T or a real Trad Rod, no radials.
Theyll be going on my, soon to be, '55 gasser...street/strip car. I`ll be romping around the streets more though for sure.
I asked Speedway to compare Firestone dirt tracks to their slicks and they tested them with a durometer and both were 75. By contrast, Hurst has posted on the HAMB theirs were 65.
Radirs hook up infinitely better than Hursts on my coupe. Tried them on the same track, same day on consecutive runs. The difference was amazing. My Hursts have held up nicely and were very reasonably priced. Just depends on if your lookin for tire life or traction.
Hurst are cheaper, and you say they hold up nice. So that will probably be the way I go then. I can always throw on other rubber when I want traction...
I used Diamond Back on my last roadster and was very happy with them. Several things to concider...first is the date of manufacture. I hear (have not seen it myself) that some tires spend a loooong time on the shelf before being sold. Whichever tire you spring for check the date on the tire. A tire over 5 years old MAY come apart (seen it happen) and distroy anything that gets in it's way. Not to mention the handling problem of a massive blowout at speed. Second, drag tires and street tires react different. Doing a burnout of a real drag tire will soften the compound for better traction. Street tires, over time, will harden with burnout heat cycles.
I had the Hursts on my 54 for a couple seasons then the same set swapped onto the T. They were abused pretty good and you could see little tread wear.
Good Morning folks! Lets discuss this matter little bit. I would not mind finding out more from all of us and help improve knowledge with the choices available. First off not all of our tires are Radials. We also recap on Nylon , Bias casing as well. Due to lack of availability of used Bias casing, we purchase "NEW" tires to offer certian sizes "The tall narrow profiles can only be obtained in "Nylon constructed casing" All of our tires are built with Racing Compound rubber that Durometers at 65 Cold , 51 Hot On the majority of the Radial Casing they are LT , meaning Steel Belted 6 ply. This is a heavy sidewall casing. Not going to give like a Nylon tire , let alone a Wrinke Wall Slick. We also cap on P tires that are 4 ply. Mostly depends on what will fit the mold,when buffed and built "Most Important" You Do Not Drop Air Pressure in Radial tire like you do with a Nylon. That is BAD BAD BAD!!!!! Radials depend on Air pressure to work properly and depend on air pressure to survive. Also with the amount of rubber that has been applied on the casing a Long , Hot , Dry , Burnout helps distribute the heat evenly through the cap and get that Durometer reading low "51". I have seen 1.6 60' with my 8" tire at the track with 3000# car "62 MAX WEDGE" I know they work Anyone have the Durometer Reading of the Coker or M/T? Thanks Cody