Ok, I mentioned in another thread about the kickass new Holthouse coil for my 39 std. It's 6V and I'm running 12V for various reasons for the rest of the car. Typical standard issue ceramic Mopar style ballast resistor, will that reduce the voltage properly? Consistantly? I'd hate to burn it up, and I think, I think...? I think it's the right way. But I also trust about 99.9873% of the info we share here and wouldn't mind some opinions or just plain over think as I tend to be guilty of now and th..ok almost always lately Hit me folks. Whatcha think? Ok, ok. I know that threads about kool shit without a picture is like lying about getting some pu...uh, I mean parts. Yeah, parts
beats me if it's correct... but I ran the original 6v coil in the Hudson, about 5000 miles, with a normal white block ballast resistor, and it made it all the way home. I'd go for it, if I were you.
Trying to get sleepy here, but if it were a boxing match we could have a split decision If I create low ohms, maybe 2 to 2.5, I won't have any worries I guess. Seems I'll be checking it with the multi meter tomorrow alone and through the resistor I have. It's coming up because I'm close to ready for a 1st fire. I could hajji a generic coil for that but I'd be putting off what I want so might as well do it all now. I'll share numbers and parts of course.
Ok, digging deep between coats and: Admitted duck soup here, but on a coil for a 6V system it needs 1.5 ohms across the posts. 12V are 3 (some internally resisted) or, in order to run a 6V coil a resistor is used to add the resistance required to keep the coil from overheating. I have 1.4 at the coil, the resistor alone checks at 2.2 (flashing 2.1, 2.2). When the resistor and coil are measured as 1, or as installed in the circuit, I get 3.1-3.2 (flashing again just a bit). So by the time I add the required wire and current drop/resistance through that I should achieve the magic 3ohm value. I honestly don't know why this minor thing has become befuddling, probably because I really wanna run that coil. As an aside, a few of their "tricks" for running this include the overall size, the size of the primary wire (#10...!), and not 1 but 2 large condensers. The 1st is on an additional post on top, probably to keep the coil energy stable, and the 2nd, even bigger, is provided for the points. There's an additional ground wire to go direct to the engine right from the coil which is also a #10. So build a big coil, stabilize the current with 2 big caps, ensure a badass ground, and also in their install guide is once installed lean out the fuel delivery to optimum requirements (well duh). No matter, it is kool. Here's the parts: Basic ceramic ballast resistor, coil, close ups of the primary wires and condensers (capacitors)... Start up party soon...
I think the idea is that if you're selling "snake oil" ignition systems, if you include instructions and stuff that will fix common maladies, there's a significant chance that you'll see an improvement. Doing all the good stuff, and using the stock coil, would probably give the same results. But damn, that's a neat looking coil! I hope it works well, and lasts a long time.
I'm with squirrel, but to be sure I'm right, please send me that coil for testing purposes! It's super cool looking.
I wouldn't want to damage a 6 volt coil on a 12 volt system. There's a company DB Electrical who specializes in regulators, car, motorcycle, tractor, etc who probably has the 12 to 6 v regulator (Phone: 800-753-2242) At the very least I would series two ballast resistors. Then measure the voltage at coil. Over 9 volts would concern me. That's like 18v at coil on a 12v system. Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
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