The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kscarguy, Feb 14, 2013.
I'm starting to look for a reasonably priced Kenwood or Pioneer.
Good call. The others you listed aren't known to be quality units. I've been super busy with work recently and haven't been on here much, but take a look at www.crutchfield.com for some deck ideas. I have some experience and would be happy to narrow some choices down for you. Just PM me.
My '27 T Roadster build: ﻿www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Crutchfield x2, although I wanna see what their fitment guide says when you tell it 1941 Ford COE!!
A Jetta stock unit is a double din.
Is there not enough room for a double din? I have never owned a single pop out screen unit because I always felt they must vibrate like crazy not to mention being worried about moving parts failure.
No room for a double DIN with the a/c unit mounted behind the dash. Even if it fit, the angle would be bad. I can just fit a Single Din in there above the ductwork and with the adjustable angle of the screen, I can get a better viewing angle.
Pioneer units cost $400+ and the add-on Navigation unit is over $300. Too rich for my blood. Even a new Clarion is $700
Crutchfield has a nice new Jensen unit for $279. Part number VM9216BT . It gets good reviews, but it is a bit boring looking. However for a decent quality at a low price, it seems like the best choice. The add-on Navigation unit is an additional $160 or more. One big downside is it does not have a slot for a memory card, so I can't store my music on it. At least it does have slot for a thumb drive.
Crutchfield said that even if I install it, that will not void the warranty. Good to know.
Now on to Sub woofers...I had an older Rockford Fosgate 8" sub, and it sounded great, but the foam on the cone tore apart, so I replaced it with a new RF version. Now it sounds plain lousy and dull, Is Kicker any better? I am thinking of this unit... 40CWS84 in my un-ported box.
I've gotten a ton of radios from EBay and had great luck, usually half off. But Crutchfield is a great supplier and I've bought there.
Working on the storage box today. Removed old back panel and fit new panel. Also working on the sail panel mounting and design...you might now realize how large these are. It is balanced on top of my engine hoist legs. It's about the length of two and a half SBC engines line up front to back.
EVERY TIME I tear the truck apart, we have to move...Ah! My landlord decided to sell our rental home to his relative and we have to move again...soon. No month to month as we expected. Luckily, the COE still runs as-is. I almost started to unbolt the rear suspension today...whew!
Ouch, I thought they had to give you 30 days notice.
man kscarguy ... you have some incredible luck. who did you make mad in this lifetime? hope you find a new place soon.
What's that saying: "If it weren't for bad luck..."
Working on creating the curved panel for the sail...Truck tailgate made a good workbench for my slip roll. I had to sacrifice my SS wire brush to clean off the years of dust from the threads to make it easier to operate. Once I got the first one done, the second was easy and quick.
FYI - This is the top view of what I am building.
Damn fellow, when you get moved into a new house just spend time working on the truck, because unpacking will just be a waste of time!
BUMMER MAN ! Good luck . Blue
The single most important thing to consider with subs is "required cubic footage". You can have an incredible sub, put it in a excellent box that's too big or too small and it'll sound like shit. Also matters if the sub is designed to be ran in a sealed or ported box too. If you like your box find a sub that matches its dimensions and charachteristics.
My '27 T Roadster build: ﻿www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
My single 8" sub is in a 1.25 cu ft. enclosure under my passenger seat. The enclosure is un-ported and custom built to fit the space just to get that internal volume. My first Rockford Fosgate sounded incredible in it...the second sounds like it is muffled under pillows. I think I'll try the kicker sub when I get the new head unit. For now my focus is on getting the truck back together and finding a new place to live.
Just load evryting on the old COE and move around like gypies. Seriously though, sorry to hear about having to move. Must be something in the air, my son just got the same notice.
After you guys get older like me, your ears won't care if you even have a radio! What, Huh, pardon me!
After a lot of cardboard templates and contemplating, I changed the shape of the sail panel...The top shape is the new design. I also bead rolled a lip into the back edge to give me a place to change from undercoat to finished paint. One double curved panel down, one to go...
We have had a reprieve. Everyone agreed to maintain the original 60 day end of lease agreement. And there is no immediate notification from the landlord, so for now we will not have to be homeless and living in a tent mounted on the COE bed. Whew! I'm still looking hard for the next house.
I passed on buying a cool farm on 11 acres, with a 100 year old house and a big old barn, because it was across the street and downwind from a cattle feed lot...too bad. It would have made a great setup for hotrod building.
As for my COE progress, I bent up internal supports to glue in underneath the long top panel on the boxes.
I would have bought the Farm, complete with a Barn and 11 Acres, what's a little Methane between friends
Good news on the reprieve. As for the smell, after a few months there, you'd never notice the smell unless you went away for a vacation. Dad raised hogs and they only time we noticed the smell was after being away from home for at least 5 days.
I typically take showers while on vacation, otherwise you will tend to stink...ha!
So you're telling me the reason my wife calls me a "Stinker" is because I need to take a shower more than once a month?
Worked hard on my COE storage boxes today. I added the first of four inner supports by drilling 54 holes through the top and plug welding. It was really warped bad. Now it is quite solid and almost perfectly straight. I had to cut up and extend a pair of vice grips to clamp each plug location. I also finalized the end panel and I am getting close to installing it...
This is all slow and tedious work, but needs to get done. The good news is I have my compressor hooked up so I have air tools again.
Nice job and glad your keeping busy and not worried about needing to move again .You missed a good show at Austin .
I heard there were quite a few COE trucks there. I'm sure you will post your pictures of all of them...HA!
1. Old door jamb - I left this corner piece in as it was, but never checked it to see if it was actually plumb...it isn't. It is off by 1/8" top to bottom. To late to fix it now. These kinds of hard to reach corners had to be finished before I could do any other work. This channel along the top of the box drains water and is what the door will seal against.
2. New back panel with curved portion of sail attached. Nice notch for leaf spring bracket. There will be a triangulated bracket added to the box mounts from the bottom of the mount up to the center bolts on the box. I have not welded the tabs to these brackets yet, but they are finished on the drivers side brackets. Just one more of a hundred to-do items.
3. Mitered corner of inner door structure - what a pain. I cut the wrong pieces in half and used them for the sides of the inner structure...I made them 2" longer for the top cross piece, but forgot I did that since it has been so many years. It will work out with a little patching on one end. Because of the angle cut, I only need to fill in a small chunk on the outer area (easy) of the inner structure.
4. First look at the door installed. Just in mock up, but actually hanging on the inner structure and making progress.
5. Inner structure with "end caps" all just temp installed. So many small parts to fit together...
6. Good view of the hinge mounted to inner structure. The holes in the inner structure are slotted so the door can be adjusted up and down.
7. Inner hinge and mounting bracket and if you look close you can see the support welded in under the top
8. Door gaps are about as small as I can make them due to limits like clearances of bolt heads, how parts are bent, etc. About 1/4"-5/16" wide. Good enough.
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