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Projects COE build thread - "Git r' done"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kscarguy, Feb 14, 2013.

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  1. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    I decided to post a buid thread for my 1941 Ford COE. Actually more like a re-build thread, let me explain...

    I have been working on my COE on and off for 10 years. Four of those years it sat collecting dust. Mice lived in it and spiders calling the chassis their home. Rust also has taken it's toll. But it is now time to finish it...whatever that means.

    So I will start posting pics, some old, many new. I try to finish the beast before year eleven!

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  2. About time! :D
    Bombard us with pictures please
     
  3. Plans? What are you going to do?
     
  4. NEWFISHER
    Joined: Dec 16, 2011
    Posts: 591

    NEWFISHER
    Member
    from Oregon

    That thing is bad A$$! Nice job so far. What powerplant, interior, plans, suspension...give us the skinny.
     
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  5. It is in excellent shape already. Look froward to your build.
     
  6. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    PLANS..hmmm let me think

    General plan is to relocate the rear axle forward to get a better balance to the truck. I need to finish the latch system on the boxes, then extend the boxes, re-fabricate a bunch of brackets, finish the interior with more custom touches (oh, I have some really neat ideas to share!) change the paint scheme, maybe paint the bed top like a vintage surfboard, build a better wiper system, add electric cowl vents, build driving lights into a second grill, and just keep going with whatever I can think of doing to make it really roadworthy...

    The good things are the truck has a new 406 SBC, New 700R4 trans, a great steering setup, and a lot of already started items that are worth saving.

    Oh, and if I get ambitious, I will rebuild the entire bed out of aluminum...(what am I crazy???)
     
  7. Vendome
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 129

    Vendome
    Member

    Just curious about the axle relocation plan. I think it looks just fine and wonder how it will affect the towing/handling characteristics. With more hanging to the rear of the axle seems it would give whatever is being pulled more leverage to cause an issue, however slight. That said, I do like it alot!
     
  8. If you're on FaceBook I hope you check the "Cabover Cult" page.
     
  9. matthew mcglothin
    Joined: Mar 3, 2007
    Posts: 970

    matthew mcglothin
    Member

    Looks good to me as is ... Drive that mother!!
     
  10. Roger Walling
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,144

    Roger Walling
    Member

    It looks ike you are running a tag sale.
    How much do you want for that blue thing?

    What chassis are you using?
     
  11. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    The axle location in the pic (with all the junk on the bed) is photoshopped to be where I want it. Right now it is about 6" back from that location. It creates a huge space between the rear tires and the back of the box.
     
  12. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    These are early photos as I was starting out...the grill change has to do with the radiator location. I wanted the radiator mounted low so the hot air would not run into the firewall and heat up the interior.

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  13. Vendome
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 129

    Vendome
    Member

    Ahh....got it. 6" ain't gonna hurt anything. Was thinking something radical from the photo.
     
  14. 53 COE
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 688

    53 COE
    Member
    from PNW

    Looks sick now.......... Looonnnng and sick........ Moving the axle will help with the turning radius too, a bit. You should scale the front and rear axles afterwards to see the front to back weight ratio.

    I need to scale mine on each axle when I get the new wheels on in a week or so. I am thinking with the gas tank out back now and almost mid engined on a 91" wheel base - it must have a good front to back weight ratio.

    ;)
     
  15. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    You ask for pictures...you get them.

    Here are the front fenders. Subtle changes, reshaped front curve and lowered at the running boards:

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  16. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    More pictures: Seat risers and mocking up the sub woofer

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  17. It looks great and I'm ready for more! Keep'em coming!
     
  18. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,718

    farmer12
    Member

    I like where this is going. Looking good.
     
  19. Cool truck! Keep it coming, maybe it will get me going on mine again...
     
  20. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 690

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

    Nice truck, i am looking forward to more updates.
     
  21. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    I sat in the garage today trying to figure out what I need to do.

    I decided to put the bed back on it. In doing so, I discovered the breaking strength of a Harbor Freight ratchet strap...

    FYI - they tend to max out on truck beds with sharp edges.
     

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  22. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    I have an issue where the running boards and front fenders do not align with the bottom of the boxes. Adding to the running boards is easy, but the fender is 1/2" above the bottom of the boxes. Do I add to the fender (again) or move the boxes up??? Moving the boxes is tricky. They set 1" below the bed. Moving them up might looked cramped. Also the fuel tanks, and lines are all inside the boxes and moving the mounts effects them. It will be tough, but I will most likely cut the fenders back apart to lower them...ouch.

    Second picture shows masking tape of a lower running board edge.

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  23. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    What chassis is it sitting on? I want to build one of these someday...
     
  24. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    This is a modified original chassis. It is Z'd right at the back of the cab. The front of the chassis sets lower than the back by the height of the frame. By doing this, I retained the body mount and running board bracket mounts relative to the cab and got the cab to set lower. I wish I had a picture to show this.
     
  25. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    And the front axle and rear axle are out of what?
     
  26. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    Front and rear are GM truck. The rear axle is a 14 bolt Corporate dump truck rear end. It is narrower than your off the lot, dually 1 ton trucks. The front end is also GM 1 ton. Lots of mods to make it work right and be safe. Biggest change is the steering setup which uses a car steering box mounted inside the frame rails. Uses a 1 ton 4x4 drag link to connect the box to the center link.
     
  27. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    I started working on a hinge setup for my storage boxes. The original idea was to hinge the doors at the bottom, but that makes for a long reach.

    I did this design to see if I could lift the door like a bus cargo hold, and clear the bed edge. This mockup is made of Styrofoam. I think the top hinge pivot points on each side need be connected together with a bar to prevent twisting. I'll add springs or cylinders on each side to help lift it.

    The hardest part will be to build into the design a method to make fine adjustments. Any small change in location really effect the movement. On this setup, the lower point on the door actually interferes with the box edge. I have to try moving it around to see if I can get it to work right.

    Next will be to duplicate it in wood or steel. I think I will make a plywood template that fits inside the boxes so I can test the setup "in-place".


    The hardest part will be to build into the design a method to make fine adjustments...

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  28. kscarguy
    Joined: Aug 22, 2007
    Posts: 1,571

    kscarguy
    Member

    I did a quick setup using the actual box. it looks like the hinge design will work. However the lowest hinge point might need to move as it is located inside the door. I am now thinking of using an actuator to open and close it...but I don't have any experience with them, so time to learn. The next step is to make wood arms and a metal door section to see if it really will work. Still contemplating the fine adjustment issue.

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2013
  29. I always thought the bus cargo door system was pretty cool.
    Hope you can make it work.
     
  30. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    Man, those front tires sit under the fenders perfectly. Nice stance, which I think is the most important aspect of hot rod. Good to see this thread, I started a thread about seeing hot rod dually's and it got deleted by the moderators...
     
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