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Technical Coats 20/20 questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ERguitar, Jun 16, 2020.

  1. ERguitar
    Joined: Aug 26, 2018
    Posts: 99

    ERguitar
    Member

    I just bought a coats 20/20 tire machine and while it works fine I have a couple of questions that the previous owner could not answer.
    There is a separate air tank linked to a "ring" that is underneath the tire as it is laying on the changer. The ring has a bunch of small holes and is linked through a pedal. Perhaps a inflator to set the bottom bead? This has never worked for the previous owner and I am unable to find any references to it.
    I'm wondering if it was an option?
    In addition the parts list references a quart of "special hyd oil". Any ideas where this goes?
    The photos aren't the best as I only have a backside view before I started tearing it down for freshening but hopefully someone has some experience. KIMG0229.JPG KIMG0230.JPG
    Thanks
     
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  2. hemihotrod66
    Joined: May 5, 2019
    Posts: 192

    hemihotrod66
    Member

    I think that helps seat the bead on tubeless tires....
     
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  3. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 1,508

    oldiron 440
    Member

    I had one years ago and I thought the air tank in the top picture was the one that ran the inflator. I cant remember witch of the two pedals worked it.
     
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  4. ^^^^^^^That is exactly what it is for. It should have been hooked up from the factory as they all have it and it is not a separate option. There could have been something disconnected by the PO but it is considered necessary especially when mounting skinny tires on wide rims ot the tires have been stacked for a period of time taking a "smashed" set to them.
     
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  5. mcsfabrication
    Joined: Nov 26, 2006
    Posts: 864

    mcsfabrication
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The ring gives a blast of air as you're trying to get air into the tire. It will spread the tire sides out. The pedal actually has a secondary step, you must step briskly and fully to the floor onto the air filling the tire pedal. If you're not aware there is the secondary step of the pedal, it won't actuate the bead expanding ring. Once the bead is up and the tire is airing up, let your foot back up to just the filling the tire operation. The ring will continue blasting air as long as you hold it to the floor. It blasts a LOT of air, and drains the tank quickly. Make sure you have the valve stem core out of the stem so air can go into the tire quickly. Once you have the beads seated, put your finger over the stem and reinstall the core.
    I have a 30 / 30 and have it since the mid 70's. The plastic protector pieces are still available that protect aluminum or chrome fancy types of wheels. Also a rubber cap for when you break the bead.
    One of my best investments EVER.
    Feel free to ask any questions. I'm sure I can help with any bit you don't understand.
    Be prepared to have more friends than you ever imagined!
     
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  6. All said is correct. After 35 years in the tire biz, I never thought that I would want to see one again, but there sure are times they come in handy. Good score!
    In case you haven't used one, you just lift the tire up so the top bead contacts the rim and tromp down on the inflator pedal. After the bottom bead seats, loosen the hold down cone to finish the inflation.
     
  7. ERguitar
    Joined: Aug 26, 2018
    Posts: 99

    ERguitar
    Member

    Thanks for all the replies and info. Where i was confused was all the youtube videos I found did not have the aux tank and inflator ring. I cleaned it up and am replacing hoses and a quick coat of paint. Hopefully tonight I can give it a go.
     
  8. scrappybunch
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 310

    scrappybunch
    Member
    from nj

    Those will destroy a cragar s/s. seen it many times. I sure dont miss them compared to a modern tire machine.
     
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  9. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 1,508

    oldiron 440
    Member

    That is the machine that breaks the center of Crager SS wheels and the like so be careful!
     
  10. partsdawg
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 2,699

    partsdawg
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Minnesota

    Made a ton of side money with a earlier version back in the 70's. Boss didn't come to work on Sunday's until after church so from 6am until 9am it was tire time. Pretty sure he knew but never said a word. Good machine for it's time.
     
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  11. ERguitar
    Joined: Aug 26, 2018
    Posts: 99

    ERguitar
    Member

    Good to know about the Cragers. Fortunately I'm a steel wheel kind of guy.
     
  12. thecj3man
    Joined: Aug 16, 2010
    Posts: 43

    thecj3man
    Member
    from TN

    What is it about the design of this style machine that makes it not work on Crager or other mag wheels? I have been casually looking for a tire machine and see a lot of these older style coats for sale. I would like to be able to do mag wheels along with the steel wheels on my Jeeps and trucks, and trailers.
     
  13. scrappybunch
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 310

    scrappybunch
    Member
    from nj

    When breaking the bead off the rim the lever on the left side pushes the bottom of the rim up, and the arm on the right pushes the top of the rim down. All this force is applied to the thin center section of the rim where the center cap mounts. Modern machines compress the bead one side at a time and the rim is not held by the machine. When doing cragars we used to break the beads with a slide hammer type tool that was for truck split rims. This was 40 yrs ago....
     
  14. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,200

    slowmotion
    Member

    Yep, center cap cone cracker. Did time on a 10-10 when in HS. Had friends I never met, opening on Sunday mornings...2 bucks!
     
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  15. thecj3man
    Joined: Aug 16, 2010
    Posts: 43

    thecj3man
    Member
    from TN

    Thanks for explaining it to me.
     
  16. Penetrator
    Joined: Aug 25, 2011
    Posts: 418

    Penetrator
    Member
    from SK CAN

    There's no "E" in CRAGAR.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 18,576

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    I have a Coates 40 40 which is a little newer version of yours. I had changed hundreds of Cragars over the years with no problems. I even used to joke with my buddies asking if they wanted to buy the mag wheel insurance before I worked on their wheels. Then it happened on a wheel of my own. A new old stock 15 x 10.... I broke the center cap area out of it... I was sick. Then I made this adapter, it is a front hub from a 65 cutlass, I machined the center out of it and welded a pipe in its place that fits thru and above the wheel. I machined a bevel in the top for the large cone nut on the tire machine to go against. Now with the adapter bolted to the wheel there is no chance of breaking a wheel

    95FD125E-7CDE-4D29-9783-947EAF2DB3C5.jpeg 504D990B-8C10-4860-83ED-CD698619857D.jpeg
     
  18. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 4,257

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I like the looks of that adapter. I just bought a Coats Model 3 and am in the process of reworking it. It's pretty much the same design as the 20/20 but without the tin work surrounding it. On mine the cylinder was stuck, the guy I got it from had disassembled it already, it had some rust and pitting in it. I wirebrushed it then ran my cylinder hone through it, turned out pretty good. Might make up an adapter like that for Ford wheels which will be mostly what I'll be dealing with.
     
  19. scrappybunch
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 310

    scrappybunch
    Member
    from nj

    That's awesome! Coats should have made this 50 yrs ago.
     
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