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Customs Clutch Push Rod 1957 F100

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by vadensomers, Jun 6, 2017.

  1. vadensomers
    Joined: Aug 30, 2012
    Posts: 25

    vadensomers
    Member

    I have a push rod problem. I have a retrofitted slave cylinder for my clutch on my 1957 F100. It is definitely a bit of a farm special but seems to be solid and functioning. The pushrod I have is trashed. Are there adjustable or universal pushrods available for this application? I am running the original clutch fork and bell housing onto 1977 Econo-Line pressure plate and clutch disc. I am running a 4 speed top-loader RUG for a transmission. Any push rod information would be helpful.
     
  2. Is this the rod at the pedal or the one between the slave and fork? If you need the one at the fork, look at Speedway item 910-25606.
     
  3. vadensomers
    Joined: Aug 30, 2012
    Posts: 25

    vadensomers
    Member

    Yes bobss396, it is between the slave and the fork. Speedway does have the universal one which I might order and modify.


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  4. vadensomers
    Joined: Aug 30, 2012
    Posts: 25

    vadensomers
    Member


  5. Chiss
    Joined: May 12, 2017
    Posts: 236

    Chiss
    Member
    from S.C.

    I made mine out of Heim joints, All the way to the Pedal. You would not Believe what it does to a clutch. Folks would make me pop the hood when I told them it was not Hydraulic.
     
  6. I'm using the speedway rod as it came, it was perfect. I thought I would have to cut it down. I'm using a '55 Chevy bellhousing and Chevy truck fork.
    221-013.JPG
     
  7. Actually I do have a bushing in there as well.
     
  8. vadensomers
    Joined: Aug 30, 2012
    Posts: 25

    vadensomers
    Member

    Slick set up bobss396


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  9. Not sure what you have going, or the configuration of the throw-out arm; but in the past, have used a 3/8" fine thread GR 8 bolt with the head cut off, a couple jam nuts and Chevy rocker ball against the fork.
    If you have the fork with the two ears, we used to cut the arms off a 3/8" clevis and weld a single 1/4" flat-bar ear on the end pinned to the fork along with a cut off bolt used again for the pushrod.
     

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