Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Clutch not disengaging

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fftoddster, Feb 8, 2016.

  1. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member

    37 Ford 21 stud eng. t5 trans with cornhusker kit with ford type cross shaft. Drake 39 pedal assy.

    Clutch does not appear do be disengaging.
    Things feel correct... small amount of free play and then feel the pressure when pushing down on pedal. When pedal is released can feel the clutch plate push the pedal back up. Measured the travel on the external cross shaft lever and it is 1" then pedal arm travel bottoms out in the little notch in the frame.

    What is weird is before driveline was put in I had the yoke in trans and started eng and was able to shift through all the gears. Now when I try I cant shift because the gears are spinning.

    Any ideas?
    I'm really not looking forward to pulling it apart again.
    Unfortunately there is no inspection access with this set up.
     
  2. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,019

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Are you sure the T5 input shaft is not bottoming out in the pilot bearing/bushing?
    And/or, the splines on the input shaft are doing that? I seem to recall when using some versions of the T5, or in some adapted applications, the input shaft and/or splines need to be shortened.

    Ray
     
  3. I remember a while back on here there was a 5 speed combo that had same issue. The problem ended up being the front bearing retainer on the 5 speed actually made contact on the Disc hub and pushed the hub up against the Flywheel bolts. Pressure plate was releasing the Disc fiber but had the Hub jammed tight. No way was that going to work. Stands to reason you could shift it without the shaft hooked to the rear end. I bet the Yoke was doing 50 M.P.H.
    The Wizzard
     
  4. what would happen if you put in gear with the engine off then cranked the motor over with the starter? kill the ignition first and make sure you have room in front of the car.
     

  5. Boryca
    Joined: Jul 18, 2011
    Posts: 695

    Boryca
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Detroit

    When you shift, are your gears grinding, or is it simply not letting you shift?
    I had a similar problem with a T5 I recently put in, so I put it in gear, held the clutch, and started it. Car didn't move. When I let out on the clutch the car moved forward like you would expect. After that it shifted fine. Still not sure what the real problem was, but I haven't had an issue with it since, starting, shifting, or otherwise.

    Mike
     
  6. 3quarter32
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 379

    3quarter32
    Member

    I had to remove 1/8"to 1/16" from the pilot shaft. It was to long and was contacting the back of the crankshaft. BTW, that was in the instructions that came with my kit, you may not have gotten that.
    Lee
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  7. Make sure the clutch disc isn't installed backwards. One side of the hub is usually longer than the other, forcing the disc to drag on the flywheel or the pressure plate.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  8. 01mikep
    Joined: Jul 26, 2014
    Posts: 125

    01mikep
    Member
    from California

    What Montana said. Done that before.
     
    Montana1 likes this.
  9. Been there and had to tear it all apart again. It's called learnin' the hard way! :oops:
     
  10. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 6,954

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    See post #4..
     
  11. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member

    Jacked up rear on jackstands started eng trans in gear and clutch pushed in... Rear wheels spun. Stepped on Brakes and car died.

    Not really able to shift into gear from neutral while running, mostly grinding, did get it to go in a couple of gears.

    found instruction sheet from cornhuskers... says something about checking the clutch hub to pilot bearing clearance... oh f$^* thinking that may be the issue. Adjusted all the free play out of the linkage and it is still not disengaging so guessing that something must be hanging up... oh damn!
     
  12. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,032

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Did the engine and trans combo sit for a while after you tested it before it went in the car. Just wondering if the clutch might have rusted to the flywheel and need to be broken loose?
     
  13. I had a T5 out of a blazer onetime about 3 times before I decided to check the brand new clutch and pressure plate. The owner was told by his mechanic that he needed syncros because it would not shift.

    Pressure plate was warped.
     
  14. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member

    No just recently put together.
     
  15. feckert
    Joined: Aug 5, 2008
    Posts: 34

    feckert
    Member
    from oregon

    if the linkage looks like it has enough throw i would be checking the pressure plate , you running a dieaframe or finger pressure plate? I have a 58 stude hawk 289 running a chevy t5, stock bellhousing for the chevy trans. very rare bellhousing, same problem as you have, pressure plate wouldnt release the clutch. im useing a 3 finger pressure plate, take your disk and pressure plate to a clutch rebuilder and he can adjust the pressure plate, mine has 3 nuts on it, cant remember if he turned in or out. but it worked.
     
  16. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member


    I am running the 3 finger pressure plate that was in the car with the 3 speed trans.
     
  17. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member

    Cornhusker said that it should not be a disc issue using the one I got from him, He suggested trying the original Ford linkage arm on outside of bellhousing on cross shaft
     
  18. Been through this. Is your pressure plate new? They can wear in alot of places and won't work if they are shot.
    Also be sure your clutch disc is good quality and not Chinese from
    Speedway.
    The stock Ford throw out bearing, fork and shaft will work as intended
    And the stock Ford clutch pedal shaft has enough adjustment for all this to work. But you will have to take the T-5 out again to fix it.
     
  19. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member

    I put a length of pipe on the arm and rotated the it as far as it would go (as if applying the clutch) and had my son try to turn the driveshaft (rear wheels in air brakes off) it would not turn.

    So I am pretty much ruling out external problems such as arm and linkage.
    It has to be something inside.

    new disc, throwout bearing... from cornhusker He said he has not had issues with these parts.
    Pressure plate was reused. Perhaps that is where the problem lies? It did work on the old set up just the trans was shot.
     
  20. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member

    Well what a nightmare!!!
    Pilot bearing stuck to input shaft.
    What a chore to get apart. Had to pull on trans with a strap wench to rear end, and pry, wiggle, lots of cussing... finally got a bit of movement but would still not come apart.
    Finally got it about 11/2" apart. Then pulled oil pan (not easy in car) then I was finally able to loosen pressure plate bolts and it came apart. IMG_2565.jpg
     
  21. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,019

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    OUCH! Tough to disassemble that puppy! Nice to know you found the problem though.

    Ray
     
  22. Dang, that's a new one. Goes to show you must check fit on all parts anymore before you put things in place. There don't seem to be much Quality Control on anything anymore. What a Blister you got delt.
    The Wizzard
     
  23. That's a new way to pull a pilot bearing :)
    Any clue why it got stuck on there?
    Remember anything that didn't feel right going together?
     
  24. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,812

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Now you have me paranoid. I have a Dwight Bond setup on a 59A. Used a roller bearing pilot. Everything seemed to go together ok but now I'm second guessing. Haven't fired the motor up yet (not in the car anyway). Eek!
     
  25. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 7,285

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    As I stated on the Ford Barn I've sold countless 100's of the conversion kit using the bronze pilot bushing with minimal problems. I have backed up any of the kits I've sold if parts proved defective. I suspect something else caused the problem but I will do what I can for the toddster. Gary at Cornhusker
     
    270dodge likes this.
  26. 01mikep
    Joined: Jul 26, 2014
    Posts: 125

    01mikep
    Member
    from California

    Wow. That's a new one for me. Never seen that happen. Sucks, but glad you figured it out.
     
  27. fftoddster
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 72

    fftoddster
    Member

    OK After having everything apart and thoroughly checking and measuring things I want to make it perfectly clear. This was NOT due to any bad parts from Cornhusker. I am going to own this and hopefully save someone else from going through this.

    I have determined that It was my fault for not carefully measuring things ahead of time.
    I had read lots of forums and quickly mocked things up and figured all was good.

    Well the deal is I am using a trans out of a 1993 s10 and apparently in 93 some of the input shafts are 3/8" longer than in the previous years. This appears to be what the problem was. The input shaft went thru the pilot bearing and ever so slightly made contact with the crankshaft. This was unnoticeable in assembly as everything went together no problem.
    So the input shaft end got buggered up and seized in the crank. Then when I finally got it to release and pull back the pilot bearing got hung up on the now buggered up part of the input shaft where it stayed giving the appearance that that was the problem.

    Now I never said it was anybody's fault or the parts were inferior. But I want to make it clear that it was NOT due to bad parts. I also want to thank Cornhusker for offering to due whatever he could to make it right and help out without knowing exactly what the problem was or me asking him too. Far to often in society today people don't take responsibility and are fine with letting the blame lay with someone else. So hopefully this clears his name and parts he offers and somebody else does not make the same mistake that I made.

    Mystery solved and thanks for all the input and help. You guys are a terrific source of knowledge and help.
     
  28. Thanks for the follow up. It's good to know that Cornhusker is a stand up guy. Ya just never know what's going to cause us grief.
    The Wizzard
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.