I can't move my shifter with the engine running so I figure my clutch isn't disengaging fully. Does anyone know how far it should move at the throwout bearing? Got all sorts of mismatched parts on my car. Chev 350 with a Ford toploader overdrive trans (T176?) with Jeep shifter, cast iron truck bellhousing with rh clutch fork, 85 Mustang diaphragm clutch, Datsun pickup slave cylinder and Toyota vanwagon clutch master cylinder. Everything seems to work when I step on the pedal. Hope someone looking at the picture can figure it out.
That is a mixed bag. I know on flathead adaptions like this the three finger Older Ford Clutch is preferred over the diaphragm type. The leverage is not looking right to me. Can you move the slave rod out on the clutch lever?
I had a similar issue with my clutch and there was a thread on it. I was using a Borg and Beck three finger clutch, it had served me very well but suddenly wouldn't disengage. I won't go through all of the fun stuff I did but ultimately I installed a diaphragm clutch from Speedway. I still had issues until I "adjusted" my linkage to give more throw. With a mechanical linkage and Z Bar it is easier to do. I am not sure (and this may be because of the camera angle) but it seems to me that your clutch release arm angle should be at this point (angle) when the clutch is depressed. Maybe move the pivot point closer to the engine? Thicker throw out bearing?
Sounds like it's not releasing. Have some one sit in the car and step on the clutch and use a feeler gauge to read the gap between the disc, plate, flywheel. I'll bet there is not any. Also watch to see the fork arm movement as they step on the pedal. Have them tell you how estimate each inch the pedal moves down to how much movement you see. If not much, reblead the system. If it doesn't move enough you may need a slave cylinder with a smaller diameter piston.
The one pic doesn't seem to show the tob pushing the fingers on the diaphragm. When clutch pedal is released. .is there play on adjustment rod? If yes then I'd adjust that rod longer first. Looks bottomed out short. You do need some play there though . Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Needs longer throw out bearing or adjustable ball pivot to correct pivot ratio. That is of course that I'm assuming everything in the photo is at rest?
Looks like the fork is hitting the bell housing ? The way to fix that is a long throw out bearing. Then you have the slave adjustment to figure out because the fork will move much closer to the slave. Just by the bellows boot, it's in relaxed position with no room for the fork to move. I have no idea how far the clutch fingers need to move but they need to move enough to get you an air gap of 0.030 between the clutch disc and the pressure plate. Minimum.
Thanks for the response,guys. Guess I'll try the long throw out bearing idea. Just hate the thought of dropping the transmission. Should have used something with an aluminum case. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Witle up a spacer to simulate along bearing and see if that will give you a 0.030 air gap. Know before you try all the labor.
With the car jacked up and in gear have someone push the clutch in and try to turn the drive shaft by hand.
And I believe the access to the pivot has something in the way, like a transmission. Possible to slide it back to get access, make up some pilots (cut the heads off long bolts..) to make it easier.
Well, after giving it some more thought, since r&r tranny isn't really something I want to do, I adjusted my pushrod at the master cylinder and the magic happened! Finally took the car for its first drive out of the garage. Went around the block; no insurance, no plates, no registration. Seems like I've never done a totally legal first drive ever.
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