not exactly an ultrasonic cleaner, and only "free" as in it was done with stuff laying around. but, 'tried this today. Saw a version of this done somewhere, 50-50 mix CLR with water, Shake for two hours, Scrub with fine brass wire brush Rinse thoroughly with clean water Dry and wipe with WD-40 so I gave it a try. I believe it cleaned evenly inside and out including passages but gave it a dull etched zinc appearance hit with the fine brass wire brush gave it a kind of pewter look. not exactly restored look but might look ok.. on engine with semi polished aluminum? View attachment 4767096
When I was a kid I used to get old grungy model airplane engines. I put the parts in a container with some cheap carb cleaner. I strapped the container to an old craftsmen vibrator/orbital sander clamped in a vise or held in my hand. The aluminum pieces came out perfectly clean and looked like I had polished them. Great for cleaning special hard to get fasteners too. I am 66 and still have the sander. BTW it works great on mixing model paints and small spray cans.
Well........ I don't know what to say.......?...... It is a product made to clean stuff. And it did clean the part. Probably gentler than sandblasting. Looks like it worked out well. So, yea. Have you heard of anyone using CLR in those ultrasonic tanks?
That was the experiment, To make a caveman ultrasonic cleaner for zero cash outlay. Probably could have gotten similar results with dish soap and lemon juice.
Hey P, Great job on those carb parts. Excellent modern caveman device with the sander. I have used CLR on a lot of stuff, despite the label warnings. The main thing it was good for was calcium deposits on sink faucets and the end tip bubblers. Drop those in a shallow tub and it was like new. If the faucet areas were too hard to get to or remove, a small paint brush and a couple of dabs of CLR left overnight also cleared up the chalky stuff. Now, there is no need since we upgraded to new stainless faucets and new sinks. But, that center basin plug will get clogged up with some form of "stuff." Water sits on top and develops a chalky residue. No need for a scrub brush at it scratches. Even Blue Dawn detergent in regular and concentrated did not take off that deposit. CLR took it right off. On an old skateboard cast aluminum part, I coated it with several coats of CLR and it looked like new. Jnaki I like the look of the carb with the rough dull surface. Kind of like old school 1959-60 era. Perhaps assemble the whole thing and place it(them) on the manifold to see the look. It might surprise you. We don't all need to polish everything, especially if it is TRADITIONAL old style.
Why yes, it did. The vibration unscrewed the lid dropping the jar to the floor. Luckily only a small mess and little loss of solution. No damage and easy fix.
I discovered the vibrator part many years ago cleaning rifle brass. Didn't have a tumbler, so I strapped one of those strap-it-to-your-hand massage units to a 3 lb coffee can half full of media, a dab of Brasso & a bunch of found .30-30 cases. Used plastic lid. Plugged it in & let it run all night - next morning, shiny brass .... It works on auto parts equally well.
When I read carbs and CLR together I wanted to scream NOOOOOO! CLR eats aluminum and pot metal. But you diluted it and kept an eye on it. Results look great!
Yes it says right on the container not for galvanized (zinc) old carburetors, and not for aluminum, new carburetors. But I had to see for myself.
I have an ultrasonic cleaner for small stuff, and a air operated pump type that was made to be used in a 5 gal can, but I think your rig is a great idea, and the results are obvious. I have a vibrating sander, and intend to give this a try. I have been using Simply Green as my main cleaning fluid, with good results. I have some CLR, and may give it a try as well. I dilute the Simple Green, and have used it a lot in the ultrasonic cleaner to clean aluminum chainsaw carbs from large chainsaws. Great idea. Bob
I like it. Agree - go very cautious on the acid content with carbs. One carb to the next xould be much different cast or plating material. Lemon juice - can probably also use citric acid sparingly. Safest bet is a petroleum based cleaner since we're trying to dissolve petroleum based crud. Vibration / tumbler Ive seen concrete mixer rotated on its side with fuel tank strapped to it, cleaner and chain rolling around for hours. I can see how the sander gives smaller pulse action like an ultrasonic cleaner, compared to a rotating tumbler. I have a old beat to death half sheet electric sander that needs a new pad, the pad installs with screws. Could make a fluid container that actually bolts to the sander in place of the pad.
Made me think of this classic scene from Fight Club, vibrating luggage. If you notice the security guy, he was in a LOT of commercials for a while. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw0HB61FSHQTV8S1jA8ptCQS
The last carb I did, used pinesol and it worked good, didn’t try vibrating but it would probably get it done faster. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Another test for comparison This time same two hours but without agitation 94 top with gold coating Similar results I think this just shows CLR is not the best for carb cleaning. All fuel residue, oil etc would need to be cleaned off first, Agitation does seem to help But the CLR is too aggressive, by the time things start looking clean the acids are eating the metal away.
Ive been looking into citrus degreasers, to refill a parts washer, theyre moving to them in the asphalt industry to clean equipment, if it cuts asphalt, it should cut engine type gunk. The PH on them is approx 10-11 so theyre basic and not acidic, should be easier on plating and base metal. Ammonia is around 10 PH for reference. Zep sells a citrus degreaser that should be available at home improvement stores, for a test, before ponying up for the industrial brand version( 1 gallon jug dilutes to 5-8 gallons) for use. Not sure how these compare to pinesol.
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