Technical Clip for Mark Vlll Electric Fan

I am in search of the little square spring clip that holds the fan blade on the shaft of a Lincoln Mark Vlll Fan...wanting to install in my '63 Biscayne.
I have posted on this about a year ago, but still looking.
Or any ideas on how to secure it other than that clip.
It is no longer made by Ford, and I have failed in my attempts to make one or find one...
Any help ???
Thanks in advance..

 

Have you tried looking at Dorman products? They make all sorts of hard-to-find hardware (I got some wiper linkage clips from them that I couldn't find anywhere else except as part of the complete assembly), they may have something that works.

 

Do you have a picture of one.

 

I checked with Dorman...no luck.
Also can't find a picture of it, but it is a "U" shape square spring clip, about one inch square with a slot in the middle that slides over the shaft and clips into place..
Thanks for the help so far..

 

could it be something that McMaster would carry? Maybe get something close and modify it?

 

Junk yard?

 

How big around is the shaft? I have had luck at Ace Hardware.

There may be something in my junk too, I don't throw anything away.

 

Along the lines of any of these? -

https://www.mcmaster.com/#retaining-clips/=178mlqr

 

I think rjones35 has found them. You might also check the AUVECO website.

www.auveco.com

 

BINGO...THANK YOU SO MUCH.... It is that square one...

 

UPDATE:
Received the clip and it works fine !!
Now to one more question.. and remember my electrical genius is limited to turning on a flashlight switch and the the light coming on LOL
I have read about everything on the net, as well as searched hear for an answer..
I have my electric fan wired direct to the ignition switch and like it like that.
I cannot get a definitive answer on the draw of the Mark Vlll fan. I have the single speed and do not need it variable.
I am running a relay to the current fan, and want to stay simple like it is..
So...with all that in mind, what amp relay do I need to install to run this fan ??
Any help is appreciated as always..
Cheers..
Also I had to buy (10) clips, so if anyone is in dire need of one right now, let me know and I will send you one..

 

that isn't a very good way to wire it, when shut off the fan will become a generator and the engine will not shut off till the fan stops rotating google delta fan controls, they buil
d a very good and simple to install fan control

 

Thanks for the quick answer and suggestion.....I many have to go that way, but I have been running it this way for ~5 years with no problems such as that. I am switching to a larger fan for cooling concerns.

 

If I read the post correctly, the OP is operating the fan with a relay. With no relay, it might act as you have suggested. But with a relay, I believe the 'feedback' will not pass through the relay into the ignition switch. The relay has two circuits, the switching coil and the 'pass through' circuit.

Ray

 

Those are powerful fans!
Lots of guy have trouble with relays melting after couple thousand miles or catching on fire. My self included.

Unless you go with a $200 controller for it.

Now I go with a 70 amp continuous duty relay, especially since you have it wired off the ignition. I haven't seen one of those burn up yet running a M8 or taurus fan and its $35.00. I'd put a temp switch in because you don't need a EFan to rim constantly.

 

Thanks much, I will go in that direction.

 

From what I've been told by the guys who have used those fans they do draw 70 Amps.

 

Update:
First thanks for your help and patience..
Went and bought a continuous draw 70 amp relay. (actually an 80 amp as that is all they had in stock)
I also got to thinking that maybe I should install an automatic on off switch, instead of running the fan all the time from the ignition.. don' t like the cheep rods that you stick thru your radiator.
While I was picking up the relay, I asked them for a straight on off switch that went directly into the top of the engine by the thermostat housing. I currently have a temp gage there, but don't need two..
All they could find was one that did not kick in till 200 degrees...
Any help in locating one that will kick the fan on at about 180-190 degrees...

 

What the thread ?
You can sort one out in a NAPA "big book"

Coming on at 200 isn't a bad thing.
I would not want the fan turning on at T Stat or normal operating temp. With an E fan the on set point should be just above normal operating temp. 200 is right there.

 

Thank you. I bought that relay at NAPA...will go back there tomorrow to get the 200 degree switch...
Sorry to drag this on, but this is why I appreciate this forum so well..
Cheers...

 

Just a heads up; if that relay uses plug-in blade connections, it's really only good for 30 amps. That's the maximum UL rating of ANY plug-in blade connector, and anybody who tells you different is lying. Even at that, a 80 amp relay is really only good for 64 amps (80% of it's full rating) and when you add in current inrush from the motor, it's seeing over 200 amps on motor start-up. I'd make sure the relay has bolted connections, minimum 1/4-20 bolt.

 

Here is a picture of what I bought.. may not be exact part, but looks like it to me..

 

Great info.. can't believe I couldn't find that on the net..

 

So maybe a 200 amp relay for the fan?
They are just a few bucks more for the added safety.
Many of these ford/Lincoln fans are OEM controlled by pulse width modulation within the computer. Maybe start up loads can be lessened by easing the fan on and ramping up the Rpms vs slamming in on? They don't have huge relays in OEM box for these fans, standard blade type.
Stand alone fan controllers are $200 and up. And they have blade type relates as well.

 

It took a little bit to find,
there's quite the discussions about these fans out there too.

V III is kinda weird to search. Viii V111 V lll it depends on how the poster did it.

 

Generally, going 150% of the running current rating when sizing any switching for motors will usually give you enough 'headroom' for decent contact life. More is better of course; in this case a 100 amp rated relay will be just a bit undersized, a 150 or 200 will promote contact life more.

Yeah, if you can play games with electronics, you can reduce the starting current by a bunch. The OEMs kill two birds with one stone; reduce the size of the control circuit by using a lower amperage 'soft start', and also have infinite speed control. But as a custom add-on, neither cheap or simple.

 

30 amps means a #10 AWG wire minimum for continuous use and it will show some warmth after some time. I would not wrap in with other wires. Don't skimp on wiring.

 

UPDATE:
Got my Biscayne back today...
Decided to just install the fan now, and not any on off switch.. it runs continuous.
Used the 80 amp continuous solenoid I had bought (couldn't find a 70 amp-thanks 31 Vicky), used #10 wire (thanks jimmy six), and had a 30 amp fuse put in the line before the solenoid.
Reason no switch yet, is I want to see if it solves/helps the heating problem first before I I take that next step.
The shop did a real nice job of changing my old fan to the Mark Vlll as well as the wiring. (due to my bad back and legs, I just can't do this work anymore. Also I ain't the brightest bulb in the scoreboard on electric work)
Took it for about a 35 mile run. It is only in the mid fifties today so not a real test, but it ran between 180 in town and 188 at speed.
Definitely different, so will have to wait and see..
Again, thanks for all the help here.. I love this forum and this Ol' 73 year old is pretty darn happy tonight...so I think I will sit on my backyard cabin and smoke a good ceegar with my little friend Kandi

 

check out Delta Current Control, they build a simple to install pulse width modulated system of controlling the fan. by turning on and off the current to the fan you avoid the big voltage spike, the controller has can be adjusted to maintain a maximum temperature that you desire. the hotter the coolant the longer the fan is kept on, this how
Ford controls the fans on there cars, using one you eliminate "dim" headlights at idle among other things associated with retro fitting one of these powerful fans, it was designed and manufactured in the USA, i have used several they work great