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Cleaning a fuel tank with acid / then hit it with wax grease remover?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Piston Farmer, Feb 23, 2013.

  1. So im getting ready to clean out the fuel tank for the 50 chevy truck. Was going to do the usual length of chain inside of it and shake it to get rid of the big shit. Then use muriatic acid cause i have a gallon of it to remove the rest of the rust.

    So heres my question after i rinse the acid out should i dump some wax and grease remover in there to keep it from flash rusting before i use the por15 tank sealer?

    Or if i get it dried out well enough should i skip the wax and grease remover and just seal it up?


    ( yes i know im not useing por15 marine clean and metal etch)
     
  2. You should probably neutralize the tank with baking soda/water solution.
     
  3. Can I ask why you are not using the products that are designed to work?
     
  4. oldwood
    Joined: Mar 13, 2010
    Posts: 1,056

    oldwood
    Member
    from arkansas

    I cleaned a '61 Ply tank with Muratic and then washed it at the car wash and poured in WD40 out of a gal can. Just my 2 cents.
     

  5. There marine clean is alkaline and is used to clean varnish, they then have you use the etch to convert back to an acid on the metal. The tank sealer sticks to the acid etched metal. its in thier instructions.

    this is from thier instructions;

    Metal-Ready will enable your POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer to
    chemically bond with whatever rust may remain in the tank and
    form a permanent non-porous barrier against further rusting.
    The primary job of Metal-Ready is to change the ph of your tank
    from alkaline to acid, because coatings and paints stick much
    better to acid-prepped metals. Be sure to rinse your tank
    thoroughly with water afterward, neutralizing the surface.
     
  6. Take the tank to a car wash,bang on it to loosen the crud-give it 5.00 worth of hi pressure wash with the sender and plugs removed to get the worst loose stuff out.
    then take it to a radiator shop and have it hot tanked.
    then if you have to use a tank liner inside it....do that.
     
  7. Roger Walling
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,149

    Roger Walling
    Member

    After draining out the gas, I always wash it out with a very strong detergent to remove as much gas as possible.

    I have had good luck washing it after, with sodium hydroxide and sand/gravel mix with a pressure washer.

    <O:p(Just like sand blasting, but under water to prevent those nasty explosions) :eek:<O:p
     
  8. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Muratic acid is an organic …. Will not effect a petroleum product and visa versa.
     
  9. chubbie
    Joined: Jan 14, 2009
    Posts: 2,336

    chubbie
    Member

    following advice from others i used the log chain thing. i straped it up and tied it to the jib boom. i rolled it around for a 1/2 hour! you should of seen the shit come out of the tank!!!!

    NO ONE TOLD ME THE CHAIN WOULD TIE IT SELF INTO A HUGE KNOT!!!! it took me several hours to get the chain out! no way no how will i ever put a chain back in a gas tank!:eek:LOL
     
  10. I have tried most of the things that has been suggested but for the last 30 years or so I take the easy way and I have never had a problem.

    I take the gas tank to the local radiator shop and let them vat it,,they always come out clean as a whistle,,Kevin then pressure test it for leaks.

    The last tank he did for me was a mess inside and he charged me 20 bucks,,I'll take the easy way anytime. HRP
     
  11. I used big 1" square nuts with pretty much the same procedure . No knots but they did work their way past the baffles and were a real bitch to get out .
     
  12. Rubber mallet attack.....
    Car wash till youre broke.....
    hot tank....[maybe twice].
    now youve got a reuseable tank.....
     

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