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Projects Clark Coupe Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by etboy97, Dec 21, 2016.

  1. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 4,635

    atch
    Member

    That's interesting. I've never seen the entire clutch/brake arms protruding into the cabin; only the top curved section. Mind to fill us in on why that came about?
     
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  2. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    The pedals are mounted as far forward as they can go with out hitting the bellhousing (the Olds motor has a long tail on the block) and lowering them leaves the master cylinder hanging below the frame. Some guys just raise the toe area of the floor which I mocked up but did not like. See post #172 for some background.
     
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  3. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,308

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    Very nice, that is a great idea on the brush things there around the pedals. I've been searching for a small boot for my brake pedal that won't stand out, I like your idea better.
     
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  4. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 4,635

    atch
    Member

    Ok. Now I remember reading that when you first posted it. Sorry but I had forgotten it. These golden years just ain't what they were cracked up to be. CRS ya know.
     
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  5. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    Made some progress on the bulkhead.
    IMG_20180727_135820362.jpg
    IMG_20180731_142727490.jpg
    IMG_20180731_142137062_HDR.jpg
     
  6. Nicely done on the bulkhead!
     
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  7. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    Made some seat belt attachment points.
    IMG_20180802_134822398.jpg

    Got bulkhead done with the exception of auto body sealer around the edges.
    IMG_20180806_140303452.jpg IMG_20180806_140313904.jpg
    Prepped holes in the rear for the tail lights and license plate.
    IMG_20180807_150716653.jpg
     
  8. Looks good (and safe!).
     
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  9. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,649

    The37Kid
    Member

    Looks nice, but you can't haul to many 8 foot 2x4's now. o_OBob
     
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  10. jetdocmodelA
    Joined: Jan 6, 2016
    Posts: 27

    jetdocmodelA

    Looking good. Curious on the amount of gap around the bulkhead to avoid any body damage on the rear quarters. What type of sealant will you use to allow some flex, but also be safe?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2018
    loudbang likes this.
  11. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member


    Most of my gaps were a 1/16" to 1/8". Here is the auto body sealant I bought on Amazon.
    IMG_20180818_144046413.jpg
    Here is the sealed bulk head. I taped most of the joints to get a cleaner finish.
    IMG_20180818_154316531.jpg
     
  12. jetdocmodelA
    Joined: Jan 6, 2016
    Posts: 27

    jetdocmodelA

    loudbang and Bam.inc like this.
  13. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    With the way the trunk floor area was modified I now had to contend with what to do about the trunk rain gutter drainage as any water in the gutter would end up in the trunk.
    IMG_20180811_114402440.jpg

    After several mockups of bad ideas I came up with one that I think will work well. I took a 1" square tube and split the upper portion and them filled in the open area to make a flat funnel shape.
    IMG_20180811_114416859.jpg

    I then cut a square hole in the trunk and welded both of them in.
    IMG_20180818_143519362.jpg

    With the bottom drip rail section set and once sealed with body sealer it should be good to go.
    IMG_20180821_123643356.jpg
     
  14. Looks like that will get the job done!
     
  15. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    Got the trunk lid fit the best I could. I spent several days working on. Lost count how many times I took it off and put it back on as I adjusted the hinges. I ended up having to shave a little off the body panels at the top right and bottom left of the trunk in the below photo.
    IMG_20180907_154648819.jpg I spent all afternoon cutting and welding the trunk latch strike as it was not even close to fitting the way it was made.

    Also got the rest of my floor panels made. I still need to weld them in.
    IMG_20180907_153646500.jpg
    Also bent up the fire wall panel for mounting the fuse panel and what ever else.
    IMG_20180907_153659451.jpg
     
  16. Good plan on the firewall panel. Will you leave slack in your wiring so it can be removed for future maintenance? (I never get it right the first time.)
     
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  17. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,308

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    This is really looking good. I need all the wood around the top of my sedan. I was going to bend up some brake line for a pattern and cut it. Hope it works.
     
  18. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDALS VERSION 3.0

    I remounted my seat and dash so I could get my steering column figured out. As I sat there in the seat with the steering wheel in hand I kept thinking about how unhappy I was with the brake and clutch pedal location. I am installing a roll down rear window which takes up more room then the fixed window. This left my seat tight against the roll down rear window wood and I am only 5'-10". I had to figure out how to move the pedals forward some more. This was not going to be possible with the F1 pedals so I figured I would have to make my own. I made some various cardboard templates changing the angles but keeping the 6 to 1 pedal ratio.
    IMG_20180913_131223352.jpg IMG_20180913_133032930.jpg By using this modified pedal shape I figured out I could move the pedals forward about 3".
    The plan was to make new pedals and reuse the F1 mounting housing. The pedals are cut out of 3/8" plate. The existing shaft pin was warn out and reproduction one has not been available for a couple years per the Old Ford Store so I had to make a new one out of 7/8" shaft. The shaft, bushings, and tube material are from McMaster Carr.
    IMG_20180917_145047015.jpg

    The shaft pin is drilled through to grease the bushings like the original.
    IMG_20180925_151507858.jpg

    All the pieces fabbed up.
    IMG_20180925_151815923.jpg
    IMG_20180925_151717602.jpg
    You cant see it in the above photo but the clutch pedal has a bend in it to offset it a little.
    Now I will have modify the pedal mount on the frame when the body comes off next.
     
  19. Nicely done!
     
  20. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    I made some mounts and got the steering column mounted. Also mounted the gas pedal. The column mounts are made with shaft collars and steel plate.
    IMG_20181004_145118930.jpg It is a Lime Works column that was new but that I had gotten from another guy a few years back. It is for a banjo wheel which I am not using but was a good price so I figured I would make it work. I dug through my junk and found a left over part from a ceiling fan that should do the trick filling in the gap between the back of the steering wheel and the column.
    IMG_20181008_131957081.jpg

    I got most of the glove box made.
    IMG_20181008_162513603.jpg IMG_20181008_162317670.jpg
     
  21. Ceiling fan part is perfect! Looks great.
     
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  22. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    Finished up the glove box and built the head light bar.
    IMG_20181102_161711752.jpg IMG_20181102_161420012.jpg
     
  23. 51box
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 954

    51box
    Member
    from MA

    Car looks good man, lots of hours paying off
     
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  24. Nice job on the dash!
     
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  25. gary kessler 1932
    Joined: Apr 16, 2010
    Posts: 78

    gary kessler 1932
    Member

    Love your car!! just my 2 cents, I think your front shocks are to tall,lower the upper mounts and get a shorter shock>. just my take. you r doing a great job on the car.
     
    WiredSpider and loudbang like this.
  26. Fry
    Joined: Nov 14, 2002
    Posts: 849

    Fry
    Member
    from SK, Canada

    Great looking build.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  27. etboy97
    Joined: Nov 3, 2007
    Posts: 191

    etboy97
    Member

    The body is back off the chassis so I can build the exhaust and modify the brake/clutch pedal mount. I built the headers using purchased flanges and mandrel bends.
    IMG_20181204_154914398.jpg
    I wanted to try and use the mechanical fuel pump but the housing would interfere with the front motor mount so I was able to machine a new two piece lower housing to clear. It still needs some finishing and will have to see if it works. The top vacuum pump portion of the pump will get blanked off.
     
  28. triumph 1
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 536

    triumph 1
    Member

    Nice work on the headers!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  29. 31 Chopped Coupe
    Joined: Aug 24, 2014
    Posts: 97

    31 Chopped Coupe
    Member

    Awesome job on the headers, love the Rocket Olds motor. Show us the other header.
     
  30. I agree - nice job on the exhaust header!
     

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