You're doing a fine job! This thread brings back a few memories! I resurrected a '36 just like this one. I didn't chop it like I planned because I didn't own it long enough to, but I put almost as much work into it. The wood was all but gone in it and the remnants of the floor were nothing more than a sieve. The bottom 4" of the car got replaced, metal replaced the former wood pieces, fenders straightened, firewall holes filled, frame blasted and painted along with the body getting blasted and primed. It was at that point someone stopped and asked how much I'd sell it for. A deal was struck and I was off to find another project.
It's coming along a little at a time. Glad I could bring back some memories. With the major body modifications out of the way, I started to make one sweep from front to rear - hitting all the little things that weren't a priority at the time. There were a couple of small mounting holes left in the firewall that have now been welded shut. There was also some rust damage that needed repair where the front fenders used to bolt to the body. I had considered filling the area below the curve with some sheet and simply welding the holes shut, but I took the little extra time to repair the curve and fix the holes. This way I can replace the bolts to keep with the effect of having just torn the fenders off the car. Working my way back, I wanted to deal with Chevrolets lack of provisions for windshield defrosting in 1936. I marked the location for holes in the dash directly in front of both the driver and passenger & far enough forward that theyll be under the windshield trim. A few well-placed dremel slots in the trim will direct warm air flow to the glass. Later Ill adapt a 12V heater box under the dash to deflect heat either up or down and fab up some ducts to mount underneath the new slots. Staying with the "front-to-rear" discipline led me to tightening up the kick panel supports and welding the original door hinge mounting pockets & bolt holes shut in the A pillars. Then I blocked-off the original latch pocket and a bunch of other holes in the passenger side B pillar. You can still see the gap between the outer body skin and the B pillar in this pic. The gap exists because that skin was previously the rear door and there wouldve been a weather seal between them when the door was closed. It was a simple matter of cutting some curved strips and welding them in place but between bending the blank pieces, patching the old holes, and filling in the gap between body and pillar I was on this one piece for the better part of the day. At the end of the day I hung the door in place to check the alignment & rear gap. It swings easily through its full range of motion and even though there are no latches yet, it closes nicely. Although many people will still have the habit just because its an old car, slamming the door will not be necessary. A slight push and the simple click of a properly adjusted latch should do. With this much done I can jump back around to the drivers side and repeat the same on the B pillar for that side before continuing with the rest. Thanks for following along on this.
A friend of mine recently chopped a 36 cdan 5 inches and had to put a fair sized strip in roof.I was given a 35 deluxe 4door and donated it to his cause....The 4 door roof turned out to be 4+ inches longer and fit length of chopped tudor perfectly. Made for a really nice chop.I hope this helps someone,It sure made his work alot easier!
I had always pictured a set of '50 Pontiac taillights in the trunk lid but the idea of having the lights go up whenever the lid was raised got the best of me. I'm sectioning the lid just a little more than the channel to increase the height of panel below. Now I'm thinking of a pair of the same lights on each side, just below the trunk.
And with a false bottom over the pan in the trunk behind the panel, I'll have easy - but hidden - access to the backs of the tail lights, room for jack stowage, tools, etc.
Fitting the sectioned lid. [The tape arrow is my reminder to self to raise the gas filler hole to make up for the drop from the channel.]
^^^ Thank you for the kind words. They are greatly appreciated. I've started removing the torque tube drivetrain and clutter of brackets that will no longer be necessary:
With that done, I can make a lower, front cross-member that will allow the top of the grill shell to align with the channeled body. The box tube between the front rails was welded in place to hold the width before cutting the crossmember loose. The plate behind it is 1/4" with some 1-1/2" box tube behind that. The piece in the very rear is 3/8". I took some of the 1/4" x 8-1/2" x 48", heated it at measured distances from the center and bent it to match the original. Then I tacked a "T" to it with some soapstone marks indicating the inside width of the frame rails. This allowed me to make my next set of bends for the drop at equal angles and end-up with something that fit and was centered. All that's needed it to cut the excess to length.
But before I weld anything solid, I want to make sure: the front of the frame is level the rear of the frame is also level the frame is level front to rear the crossmember is level - side-to-side & front-to-rear Then I welded it in along with a piece of the 1-1/2" square box to mimic the original grill shell/radiator mount that allows for the lower radiator hose connection. Then I cut a hole in it to allow for drainage and minimize any accumulations. I'm now to the point where I've got the whole thing flipped-over and can solidify the cross-piece with a little more box tube.
I reinforced the underside of the crossmember today with some of the 1-1/2" square box. I ran the box tube along the sides, but used a strip of 1/4" for the very bottom. With the box tube on the top side already, there was no need to make hang down it any lower. And I flipped it back over and mocked-up the front suspension.
Yeah, no kidding. It's nice to be making some progress. The time is there. I just get out and do it between everything else. If a period goes by that I don't get to it because of other priorities, it's still there when I go back. Thanks. So far, I'm liking it too.
Awesome job. I have a 36 standard in the wings waiting it's turn. Your craftsmanship is going to help tremendously.
With the frame upside-down, I cut some of the unnecessary bulk from the front and back of the crossmember. I made a template from some card stock so the curve would be the same on both sides and set after it with the torch and grinder.
Cutting the curve in the front not only eliminates some of the bulkiness but since the axle also has that rearward curvature to it, it allowed me to set it back just that little bit more to get the wheel center inline with the grill as viewed from the profile. Once I flipped the frame back over and got everything where I wanted it, I placed the mounting bracket I made earlier on top of the spring so I could start taking some measurements.
I know I couldve welded a piece of square-box tube between the rails and called it good, but what would be the fun in that? Instead, I cut a piece of 1/4″ to shape with the right amount of drop to meet the mounting bracket and poked a few holes in it for good measure.
Then, by alternating heat from the torch with welding, I was able to bend that face-piece to match the curve of the 1/4" I cut for a top.
Granted that all of this would have been much easier had I owned a drill press or still had a band saw, but I was raised on the old axiom that Its a poor craftsman who blames his tools. It may have taken me longer much longer to do it this way, but it got done.
Try as I might to weld as close to the leaf-spring pin centering hole without messing it up, I noticed a small booger in the hole between 3 & 4 oclock when I was done. Sure enough, it prevented the spring from seating fully on its mount when I tried to test fit everything. I have a small chainsaw sharpening file that would fit, but if youve ever tried to hand file a weld with the smallest of hand tools, youll know why I say, Thank God for Albert J. Dremel"
The Jalopy Journal
