I've welded a lot of things over the yrs. This is my first chop. I was wondering if anyone has any input on methods of welding to limit warping. I know to spot weld every 2". But do you start in the back, front door posts? I have looked at a lot of posted pics and everyone is a little different. Also is there a way to do the back corners without RELIEF cuts. I really would apprieciate any knowledge on this. I'm excited and scared. I really want this to turn out good. Its a 4" chop. Thanks Guys....
I've helped chop several model A's over the years and we always had to cut relief cuts in the rear quarters,,we always started at the front. HRP
every chop is a little different, but I always layout the chop using blue painters tape. I makes it easier to measure and visualize how things fit back together. Don't be afraid to make an offset in the chop behind the rear quarter window to get the lines where you want them across the rear window. As far as the relief cuts go, usually something has to be shrunk/stretched to line back up. Weld with small 'tacks' working around and around and around the car....to aviod overheating. Good luck and HAVE FUN.
You'll find that due to the taper of all the posts the window channels will need to be sliced vertically, the top part 'opened' a bit, and the lower section pushed together to get the inside and outside skins to line back up, no worries, get a zip wheel in there and massage it a little, weld it back up.
Don't ? if weld it that would be my advice. It would be a shame to spoil it now. Gas or tig welding will allow you to dress the welded joints to a good finish. David
Sleeve all the pillars!! Cut whatever "windows" you need in order to weld ALL four sides of the pillars. If you gas weld the sheet metal, you'll be able to finish the metal easier and better.
What sort of welding equipment to you have? More important..what are you good at using? A good mig will do the job, some like gas-welding...it's all in what works best for YOU. On long flat welds it's always good to use a hammer and dolly as you go to work the seam flat and stretch it.. it will have a tedency to shrink as it cools.
Thanks, I have a 220 Hobart Mig and a 140 Lincoln Mig, I'm using the 140 with .24 wire and 75X25 mix. I seen that the posts have to be split. Had anyone ever put box tubing in where the wood is to hold everything ridged. All my wood is removed. I also planned on sleeving the pillars Thanks for the Reminder. I am also waiting for my butt clamps to come from Eastwood(That's Sounds Wrong) =]. I really apprieciate the help fellas. I have been wanting to start this project for yrs. But life has put it on hold.
just take your time...tack, tack and more tack. I like getting the rear vertical body seam all lined up, then work forward from there.
Mig is fine. Just don't tack so light that you compromise penetration. Each weld needs to fully melt into the last & both pieces of base metal. And yes I would replace the wood with metal in most areas.
I have chopped one coupe, and one Tudor, both 4" and am almost finished with the third coupe at 3" http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=626730&showall=1 http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=745680&showall=1 I use a miller 180 with .023 wire. I use the piece that I cut at the rear to back the new weld. You do have the taper issues, I address those. I also cut the dash rail to relax the lower A pillars so they don't have a kink outwards. Take a look at the pics and ask away. I am not a master craftsman, these are my cars I have done, and they turned out really nice. Others I am sure tackle it differently. But I had a few real genuine compliments from some respected older car guys who know old car fab / custom work.
And I start at the back, then tack the front, lining up the outside and front edges of the pillar, then moving the B pillar / door tops. Here is the correct current one http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=853349
I often work alone. Sometimes it's impossible to hold, clamp, push, see and pull the Mig trigger at once. What I have done is get some scrap aluminum to back up the area where I weld. I bend the aluminum so it actually fits on the back side of the work, and pop rivet it to the car in the area where you want to weld. The aluminum acts like a heat sink, and the pop rivets hold everything in place. Skip weld the joint using .023 wire with the heat turned up a little. Go front to back, nail it, nail it , nail it. When the weld is complede drill through the pop rivets, remove the aluminum and weld up the holes the pop rivets were in. You can pretty much go around the car clamping and anchoring everything in advance with the aluminum pieces. Just be sure not to do too much welding in any one location, as welds pull. Keep moving one side to the other. Soon it will all be welded up and you can grind the welds smooth. I also put a little square tubing in the A and B pillers, then rosette weld the tubing to the post. This is and extra for strength, and the welds resist cracking because of the weight of the door etc.This works well
I really apprieciate all the help guys. I am hoping to get started welding in the next couple days. I am getting anxious, But family stuff and work limit my garage time....Thanks Jeff Picks to follow!!!!!
The Jalopy Journal
