Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Chevy stovebolt six, big bolt as well as small, calling all

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by volvobrynk, Aug 7, 2015.

  1. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

    In 1959 the 235 was modified to give higher torque at lower RPM.
    You can read about the changes in the 1959/60 shop manual supplement.
    1959, 1960 Chevrolet Passenger Car Shop Manual Supplement

    [​IMG]
     
    volvobrynk and stoveboltswede like this.
  2. 1937FordCoupe
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 79

    1937FordCoupe
    Member

    I am sure it is covered in this thread - but I'll ask directly - Will a Neutral Balanced 168 Flywheel work on a ~ 1960 235 that currently has a 139 tooth flywheel? I know I have to swap the started - but would the flywheel fit inside the bell housing (with a 10" clutch?) or are the diamaters different - and therefore I would have a clearence issue? I am rebuilding the 235 now for my 53 3100 - With this I would like to change from the Stomp Starter to a Solenoid based starter. The truck is now 12V but with a 139 tooth ring gear so I think it is using a 6V stomp based Starter - which has not given me any trouble. Based on the above - I would change to a 12V Solenoid to assure it does not slam if I retain the 139 tooth flywheel)

    Right now I have the 235 with a 53 Bell Housing, as I know this does not have the same bolt pattern as the 63 and new L6's and V8's. I am using a t-5 adapter plate a T5 9" disk (26 Spline) and I adapted t5 pressure plate to get it to align to the 235 flywheel. However there is a bit of a vibration, I think from the T5 pressure plate bolt holes being hogged out to adapt from the T5 metric bolt circle to 9" bolt Circle. Figured if I put a full 168 fly wheel with the 10"Clucth and pressure plate, I could make all these adapter challenges go away.

    I am open to other thoughts - Thanks!

    Clark
     
  3. I would try @Crusty Chevy he put a t5 on his 235. He's helped me out a ton.
     
  4. Flywheels do not interchange late onto early as they do not physically fit in the bellhousing, I am not totally sure about going the other way or when adding a later bell to an earlier engine there might be enough room. I am using a 58 235 bell as it has the modern 4 speed bolt pattern and does not require an adapter, just a thin spacer to move the T5 back a smidge to get full disengagement and not run out of splines. This I do know for sure, 6V starter must go to 6v 139 tooth flywheel and 12v starter to 12V 168 tooth flywheel, tooth pitch is different and they do not mix. 48 and back starters are 6v and stomp style. I run a 6V solenoid style 49-54 starter on a 139 flywheel with 12V input power, spins over very fast. For the T5 I used the factory S10 spec 9 1/8" clutch disc with a 9" pressure plate designed for the original application, in my case '47 using factory flywheel pressure plate bolt holes, no need to use the s10 pressure plate. Unless you are towing or putting out big HP the 9" clutch is fine, no need for a 10". The 10" in T5 spline comes from some sort of Vega and I have no experience with this I do know some have tried to use the astro van disc which is an 11" and will not fit. Hope this helps.
     
  5. 1937FordCoupe
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 79

    1937FordCoupe
    Member

    Thanks Crusty Chevy - This helps a ton. I'll to get the 49-54 Solinoid Starter - the rest I have in the garage (New 9" Disk, New Orig style pressure plate, etc) - Clark
     
  6. 1937FordCoupe
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 79

    1937FordCoupe
    Member

    Thanks
     
  7. Happy I could help. Even if it's just pointing the way.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.