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Chevy Flywheel Question??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 392Roadster, Aug 16, 2011.

  1. 392Roadster
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 124

    392Roadster
    Member
    from Long Beach

    Need some help here. I'm reinstalling the '57 Fullie motor back in my '40 Tudor Sedan and the Schiefer flywheel that was in it is junk and needs to be replaced......The question I have is, Should I replace it with a lightened unit or a stock unit. It will see most of it's use on the road around town. THANKS.
     
  2. dbradley
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,036

    dbradley
    Member

    A steel flywheel will provide better manners on the street. Aluminum ones allow the RPM to come up quicker, but in a heavy car with a street gear you're probably better off with steel. I'd spring for a SFI rated unit, can't be too safe.
     
  3. Turbos10
    Joined: Aug 8, 2011
    Posts: 55

    Turbos10
    Member
    from Texas

    For a driver, the heavier the better within reason. A heavy flywheel has inertia, or stored energy, so when you let out on the clutch the engine has to do less work to get the car moving. This is particularly true on a mild, small cube engine without a ton of low end torque. The light weight flywheels are for race cars for the most part.
     
  4. CalGasser
    Joined: Apr 11, 2005
    Posts: 793

    CalGasser
    Member

    Both of the above advice is true. Unless your car is light, have some steep rear gears & engine has lots of torque, you'd be a lot happier on the street with a steel unit. You'll also be doing a lot of down shifting when you begin to slow down to low speeds or else your car will start bucking...:( Go with a steel SFI unit!
     

  5. N2hotrods
    Joined: Jul 6, 2010
    Posts: 146

    N2hotrods
    Member

    You will want to use the steel flywheel for a street driver. The stock chevy unit will work just fine and you will save some money.
     
  6. bobkatrods
    Joined: Sep 22, 2008
    Posts: 690

    bobkatrods
    Member
    from aledo tx

    A good compromise is a steel wheel but about 20 lbs, midrange between the 30lb steel and the 10 lb aluminum, depending on what gear you have and torque of the motor.
     
  7. 392Roadster
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 124

    392Roadster
    Member
    from Long Beach

    Thanks Guys! That's what I needed to know.
     
  8. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,591

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    ....and if you're using the early cast iron bell housing with the three bolt starter, you need the 168 tooth 'wheel.
     
  9. DAPER DAVE
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 200

    DAPER DAVE
    Member
    from N/A

    Stay with the stock Flywheel unless you plan on racing it.
     
  10. Basic Flywheel 101, be sure to check the teethe count and get the correct balance. A new set of AMERICAN made bolts would be good too, Lock-tite and a torque wrench. TR
     

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