Anyone remember off the top of your head how you remove the drive shaft from the rear differential on a 1949-1954 Chevy?! Thanks in advance
jack the car up safely and then pull the 4 bolts out around the bell on the back of the transmission slide the ball to rear of car as far as possible then get inside of bell and remove the little bolts and slide the joint to the rear of car and then the driveshaft can be lowered below the transmission CAUTION THIS IS A DANGEROUS PLACE FOR FINGERS AND THEY CAN BE AMPUTATED BY MISTAKES IN JUDGEMENT I did not know how to do this 40 years ago and used a torch the first time, i am sure that had a bad outcome
Take off the rear cover ,remove the spider gear shaft retaing bolt. Remove spider gears ,push axle in ,remove C clips . Remove axles ,unbolt the torque tube assy from the front side of the axle housing. A bit like working on a 10 bolt to get the axles out.
if you just want to get the driveshaft and center section out pull the rear cover and remove axle clips and pull axles and the unbolt center section at the front of the housing and remove otherwise you will have to remove the u bolts or however the springs are hooked up and maybee dismantel the rear shackels and slide rear end out the back, it proabbly could be shifted side to side and sliped down if clearance is sufficient are you replacing rear with another open driveshaft style?? there are some pivots mounted the rear end and they are clamped to the leaf springs if not reusing the differential in the car cut the bolts out with a torch and save a lot of time where it mounts to the springs
How do you get a driveshaft rebuilt for this car? I have one that leaks and can't afford to swap anything out, just trying to get it running again.
wheres it leaking?? i assume around the bell?? not sure if is is best , but some have put a grease zerk in bell and packed it full of grease to keep oil in the rear end not sure if this would apply , but i used hub oil that has a sealer used on front axle hubs on semi tractors , sealed the front rear end on my dura max its in the white bottles, NAPA should have it memory gone another thing is 85-140 grease a little thicker wrap seal with string and silicone and bolt together??for the bell seal, I never had a problem with these, but i could buy parts at the chev store in 1963 did you tighten the packing gland on the slip joint on the bell???some hardware stores have a water pump packing that is sold for a sink faucet repair, could be used there
I have been trying to do the same thing all day (reomove the driveshaft from the rear axle) but the bolt that holds in the pin inside the differential housing is a freakin' flathead round bolt. What the heck? All videos online show the guy getting an easy 12-sided bolt off to remove the axle pin in seconds. I can't get a flat screw driver to torque this bolt all! Any suggestions? I can't find a 1/2 socket for my impact wrench that holds a large enough flathead tip. (The channel of the screw is 1/2 inch long so a small flat bit won't do but I can't find online large flathead bits/sockets). I even got a smaller vice grip on the head but it won't turn. I am perplexed. Is there any other way to get the driveshaft disconnected from my axle than getting out those darn C clips? I'm not going to reuse this axle or likely the drive shaft. Is there another way? Can I cut the driveshaft or is that a waste of time? Differential fluid isn't flammable is it? That's a solid steel shaft. Pretty hard to cut but whatever. The desperate-side in me is ready to do something drastic. I'm writing here to collect my thoughts and sanity. Thank you for any suggestions and any sanity you can provide. Photo: The yellow is the pin. The red is the stupid flat head bolt. (round head, not hex). I also have the front of the housing unbolted. The axle is freed from the leaf springs. It's so close to all pulling apart but it won't because of the pin, I guess.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/04rear/4_01.HTM click the link it will let you go thru all pages.
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