Technical Chevy 327 tuning help

I'm running a Comp Cam XE262H in my .060 over 327 300 HP (avatar) and couldn't be happier. Ground pounding idle and pulls hard through all 4 gears and 3.73 rear. The idle tells eveyone its not close to being a stock 327. If it where me, I'd ditch the thought of 3X2's if your looking for performance. Probably would run much better with a 650+ CFM four barrel.

Gary

 

Thanks for the help. It’s much appreciated.
All this help will be helpful when the parts buying spree begins.
I want to try and get things right the first time.

 

Thanks for that Gary.
Sticking with the 3x2’s as it’s more in keeping for the look I’m after.
This is going to be built as a bit of a cruiser. No strip action, so no need for top end power. Just need it to pull well from idle up to about 50-70mph.
After reading everybody’s input it looks like I’ll up the gearing around the 3.70 mark

 

This is how the motor is at the moment


This Coupe is the sort of look I’m after
Chopped and channeled with Rocket Racing Injectors

 

Pic of my engine. You need a tri-power manifold. D

 

I have seen those but that would mean more outlay.
Would it affect the running with my setup or would it be better on a 3x2 manifold

 

I'd look for some camel hump iron heads; they are getting pretty cheap and will work well with the L79 cam. I had a 40 with a 327, turbo 350 stock converter, 3.08 rear, 28.5 tall tires. It was a pig below 60 mph. 3.50 gear with shorter tire and 2000 rpm stall converter or ,as mentioned, 3.70 rear gear. I would still look into a looser than stock torque converter.

 

All good info to keep in mind. Many thanks

 

I run a 327/300 hp. in my Merk with 3.73 rear end
with a Powerglide Trans & I am trying to change the Rear end Radius by putting
Larger Tire's on the Rear end.
when Crusing at 60-65 the Engine is Screaming
either Tires or Change the Gear Ratio or a Hone a Drive
and I would run a 4 Barrel

just my 3.5 cents

Live Learn & Die a Fool

 

I'd keep the turbo 400 simply because they were used in several UK (for the guys who didn't check he lives in the Peterborough, UK ) built cars in the 70's and internal parts, filters and service if you need it are easily available.
If you are shooting for looks that 3x2 adapter has to go and you have to have a proper 3x2 intake. That unit will cause more point and laugh than OOH and AWE with knowledgeable rodders.
I'm thinking that the main cost difference in building a 327 than a 350 at any level of build is in the pistons. 327 being more expensive because they don't sell anywhere near as many and volume of production and sales = price.

It might help if you post the casting number of the heads you have now and the suffix number of the serial number stamped in the pad on the front of the right side of the block. That would let guys know what you are actually starting with.
The Trick flow heads are probably out of the picture cost wise as you don't want to spend the extra for a real 3x2 intake . If your stock heads are rated to flow somewhat decently I'd keep them and get the proper intake with the money.
Cam: there are plenty of cam grinds that sound real healthy and create torque and pull hard on the lower end. Even some of the factory GM mid 70's Z28 cams work great in older smaller engines.

 

Heads read

Block casting number and on the front pad it reads,V0822MF
If I’m right it comes out as a 67 Camaro 210hp

 

I did think it looked a bit odd with it being so unusual looking and had thought about a proper 3x2 intake. Looks like I’ll have a change.

At the end of the day I want something reliable with a decent bit of grunt.

 

Those are strange heads for a '67, but they did offer a 2 bbl carb 327 engine in a Camaro and maybe that's it. See if you can find heads with casting numbers that end in 441,461,462 ( and there are more) on your side of the pond. They also used that block for a 350; I'd pull one of those heads and check the stroke before going further.

 

Finding those heads over here could be a bit of a mission.
This is the 2bbl setup that came on it

 

Most likely pro comp junk, I'd rebuild your stock heads way before wasting money on those things, also like was said I'd get rid of that goofy fake 3x2's looking thing in a heart beat, just looks like a joke wannabe laugh at me item.

 

It’s a 3x2 adapter made by ‘vintage speed’.

 

This would be the only other head with the true camel hump, these are the last ones, "291" casting from late 1967/68.

 

I think you guys are too harsh on the 3 x 2 adapter. I think the added height it gives to the carbs looks good, a standard 3 x 2 manifold can look a little lost in an A engine bay. That baby will sit tall and proud between the radiator support rods. Plus, I bet on a good 4 barrel manifold that arrangements flows better than a standard 3 x 2 manifold. Of course, if you want it to look like everyone elses, forget all this and just get a 3 x 2 manifold...

 

It’ll sit nicely between the rods on my ‘A’ that’s for sure.
They’re supposedly jetted for this setup so it may work out ok

 

40 coupe, that 3x2 manifold wouldn't make for a decent door stop. Again I'd trash it and get yourself a decent four barrel intake and carburetor and forget about how something looks. To me performance always trumps looks and posing.

Gary

 

I think that 3 by 2 adaptor looks like a monkey screwing a football. Later Bill

 

I concur!

 

The manufacturer’s name is Vintage Speed but that thing neither looks vintage nor is it built for speed.
There are much better choices out there.

 

Apparently these flow better than a generic 3x2 intake.
I’m not after a high power engine.
Saying that though, if this setup is detrimental to the longevity of the motor I’ll happily change it for the more common, same as everybody else intake

 

But then I’m not after high power/performance

 

If your not after performance, block off the end carbs on that deal and put everything else back to stock. Done. Lippy

 

Yeh, you say that now!

 

You say that like it's a bad thing

Good thing he's building it for himself, not you!

 

Since you are from Europe too, I suggest you to go as high on compression as you can. I suppose your cheapest gas in the UK is also 95 octane, just like here. I´m running 11.3:1 cr on my .040 over 327 on 98. Just cruising ( like going on vacation for 500 miles) it will be perfectly fine with 95. Going racing at full throttle and high rpmsand in extremely hot temps you would need 98 here.
In North America fuel ratings for pump gas are 87,89 and 91 and it even smells a lot differently. That´s why most guys will tell you not to run 10:1 or more on pump gas with cast iron heads. Last time I was in the UK fuel there was even more expensive than here in Germany, and adding compression is a good way to save fuel ...just my two cents worth.

If you would like to find yourself a pair of 64 cc camel humps, go searching for set of 3991492 heads, they came on Opel ( probably Vauxhall in the UK) Diplomat 5.4s up to 1977 I think. They are pretty plentyful. An try to use a steel shim head gasket, you will loose compression with the blue multi composite gaskets that come with the FelPro gasket sets.I have 10 sets of steel shim gaskets for sbcs in a car that is on the way over here right now, so if you can find a set locally, I will gladly send you a pair.

If you don´t need a lot of hp and want a nice running engine that is good on fuel, you could just use your 3 pot intake with the rear and front carb blocked off, a mild cam like at 218/[email protected] lift to get a nice bottom end on the one carb and make enough torque to haul that long rear end and large tires.

 

That what it may sound like. I put a 234/244° @.050 lift with 110 LSA cam in mine ,long tube headers and a 750 cfm carb.