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Chevy 327 overheating help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 63bluenova, May 17, 2014.

  1. rtomss
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 241

    rtomss
    Member

    Take the cap off and let it warm up for a bit. Could be a air pocket that's restricting flow.
     
  2. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 556

    OFT
    Member


    Yes, a Spal 16".
    I run a sense wire from the gauge to a Dakota Digital fan controller. That is a high impedance circuit so it is not a problem. Motor is a 350" with 177" blower. Gauge gave same false reading with 396 and blower.
     
  3. I just went through this with my wagon. It got hot sitting in traffic but was fine while driving. Make sure the fan is pulling air through the radiator towards the engine. If it's blowing out through the grill shell it's backward (unintentionally tested this theory the other day). In my situation it was the timing being badly off. I set the timing, retuned the carb, and moved the vacuum advance to the manifold vacuum port on the carb. Runs great and 190 in traffic on a hot day.
     
  4. 63bluenova
    Joined: May 31, 2013
    Posts: 90

    63bluenova
    Member

    Just started it with cap off and lots of air came out fan came on about 185 and temp peeked out at 195 then dropped thermostat didnot open much then closed . Hope this fixed the problem



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  5. 63bluenova
    Joined: May 31, 2013
    Posts: 90

    63bluenova
    Member

    How many cmf's does the spal 16 fan ?


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  6. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 556

    OFT
    Member

    Last edited: May 18, 2014
  7. c57heaven
    Joined: Feb 22, 2008
    Posts: 540

    c57heaven
    Member

    I too was going to suggest checking the timing. Make sure your harmonic balancer and timing marks are cohesive.
     
  8. Commish
    Joined: Jan 9, 2010
    Posts: 379

    Commish
    Member
    from NW Ok

    No, don't change to a 160, won't make it run any cooler. Rating on a thermostat is just a set point that makes the engine come up to that temperature before it opens completely. After that it is condition of cooling system and capacity that determines how cool you are going to get it to run. As has already been stated there is a lot of BS info distributed along with the good on forums like this.
     
  9. txturbo
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 1,771

    txturbo
    Member

    Changing to a 160 degree thermostat will not change anything, except it will open sooner when warming up. If you are already running at a temp higher than the opening temp of the thermostat , how is that going to change anything? Only way it will make a difference is if your cooling system is capable of actually cooling it down to a temp below the opening temp of the thermostat. I would check your radiator for cold spots even though it is new. If you didn't start off with a clean cooling system when you put the new radiator in it could have a bunch of crud from the block starting to clog it up. Touch the center of the radiator core with your hand and see if it's hot or cold.
     
  10. 63bluenova
    Joined: May 31, 2013
    Posts: 90

    63bluenova
    Member

    So far driving and letting it idle in driveway goes to 195 then back down so I think it's fixed . Thanks guys for all the help



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  11. My biggest enemy on SBC engines has been "Air Pockets"
    Burp it and burp it again, run a 160 or a 180 degree thermostat and maybe burp it once more. Solved my issues.
    Shroud is a definite item also.
     
  12. Jay Tyrrell
    Joined: Dec 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,631

    Jay Tyrrell
    Member

    Those electric fans usually have a shroud built into them. I think you mostlikely fixed it with burping the system.
    Jay
     
  13. 5Wcoupe
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 306

    5Wcoupe
    Member
    from L.A., Ca.

    Do yourself a favor and check distributer vacuum advance and timing
    Finally did new Vac advance on my 327 and has run 10-15 cooler ever since
     

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