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Technical Chevy 235 261 inline six motor oil

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by stoveboltswede, Sep 8, 2015.

  1. What kind of viscosity do you guys have in your stovebolts?
    I´m using a mineral oil with very high zinc (2100ppm) additives and high viscosity in both of my Blue flame sixies.
    It´s called :Lucas Hot rod and classic 20W-50 Oil High Zinc
     
  2. prpmmp
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,072

    prpmmp
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  3. in a 235 I would use straight weight 30. Unless it is very cold or very hot in which case I may go up or down 10. Unless you have seriously jacked the spring pressure upon your valves or are running a new cam that doesn't have many miles on it the added zinc isn't going to make much difference, and those old engines prefer straight weight oil or that has been my experience.
     
  4. flyin-t
    Joined: Dec 29, 2004
    Posts: 1,354

    flyin-t
    Member

    Pennzoil 30HD in my stock '57 235. No additives.
     

  5. waldo53
    Joined: Jan 26, 2010
    Posts: 860

    waldo53
    Member
    from ID

    I use Valvoline VR-1 straight 30w. Last time I checked the ZDDP content was 1400ppm, should be plenty for a stock engine ('54 powerglide 235) that rarely sees much over 3000 rpm. I used to wait until it went on sale at O'Reilly's but now I just buy it online from Amazon - pretty cheap too.
     
  6. flyin-t
    Joined: Dec 29, 2004
    Posts: 1,354

    flyin-t
    Member

    Not to jack this thread but Waldo your pickup is NICE!
    [​IMG]
     
    waldo53 likes this.
  7. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,473

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    I worked in a gas station in the sixties when there were thousands of those on the road. All we ever used for oil changes and top ups was 10W30. Unless the owner was a cheapskate and the engine was an oil burner, then they bought straight 30 weight.

    If it is stock the valve train is low stress and today's zinc free 10W30 should be ok. But if you are nervous you could use Rotella or some other brand that still has zinc. Diesel engine oil still had zinc the last I heard.
     
    stoveboltswede likes this.
  8. prpmmp
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,072

    prpmmp
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Clifford agrees with Rusty! Pete http://www.cliffordperformance.net/engine-blueprint.html
     
    stoveboltswede likes this.
  9. Ok it seems now that I've been overdoin the viscosity in my engines, I guess it's time to go from 20w50 to 10w40 or 10w30 and of course still mineral . We can't use straight 30 here in Scandinavia because of the four seasons...
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2015
  10. LOL we got 4 seasons here of course it only gets below zero for a month or so. Some of us have been using summer and winter oil for so long that we don't know any other way.

    You can't buy anything here but dead dinosaurs any more so mineral oil it is. There was a time that you could get vegetable based oil but those days are long gone. Synthetic has become popular in the last decade or two, I don't use it my engines are all from a different era. I figure if I still eat beans and cornbread instead of health food my engines can still use mineral oil instead of synthetic. We are both from the same era. ;)
     
  11. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,319

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    They left out Customs!
     
    stoveboltswede likes this.
  12. old sparks
    Joined: Mar 12, 2012
    Posts: 414

    old sparks
    Member

    I use 15/40 rotella because it`s cheap and in cal. has the most zinc content. Don`t knock synthetics. At the races, a synthetic takes 3 times as long to clean up as a petroleum based oil when someone unloads the bottom of their motor. I have had that experiance
     
  13. [​IMG]
    I've changed my mind after some research. Clifford performance, Patricks antiques and Tom Langdon's says that this kind of oil is the best way to go with in my old inline sixies
    Can't buy this in Sweden so I'm ordering from the US.
     

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