i know i will get looked down upon for this but i have a lot of questions for people. if anyone has put one of these in a car please let me know. i have a 92 S10 that im going to be putting my chopped (yes i bought it back) 54 chevy truck onto and cant put a big motor because money is tight right now. so i have the 4cyl with 5 speed so it will get good gas mileage so i can still afford diapers. so if you guys have any info please pm me. mine is fuel injected but i think im going to have to go carb on this so i dont have to move the crappy comp over and what not. thanks. JohnnyG.
Lots of people doing it. It's a good fit apparently! Keep it light with that 4 cylinder though...and I'd KEEP the F.I. in this case. Use the complete S-10 harness/computer and enjoy the extra bit of HP & torque the F.I. will offer. With a small engine in a fat truck you'll need all the help you can get. You've been following the AD/S-10 threads I assume?
You shouldn't need diapers in a truck like that...it'll run okay and likely get decent mileage...but it shouldn't be fast enough to require you wear DIAPERS!!!
alright, the diapers arent for me, they are for my 7 month old son. but how much of a pain in the ass is taking that harness and everything else out and re installing it? that doesnt sound fun to me.
It won't be fun and games but if you have everything and it works correctly now, do it. I think the weight of the 54 will probably be close to the same or actually less than the S-10. With the whole Matching drivetrain (engine, trans, rear), It should be a nice little cruiser that will still more than keep up with traffic on the highway. There should be a bulkhead connector on the firewall that will let you disconnect the harness and leave all of the engine harness attatched while you disconnect the inside portion of the harness on the inside along with the computer. I'd get ahold of the 92 S-10 wiring diagrams and study them so that I pretty well knew what went where and where to disconnect things.
Pull the harness intact, strip off everything that has nothing to do with the F.I., then you'll see that there really is not that much to do other than plug it back in once you swap the engine into the new truck. The F. I. will require power and ignition, but all else is within the engine compartment and to the computer. In other words, swap the hard parts, ALL of them. Now, pull the computer, and plug in all the wires (easier if you start with using the S10 gauges and column, THEN swap over to whatever). You will find that there is one or two wires that go direct to the battery, but that all else just plugged into a component that you swapped into the 54. I say to use the S10 gauges and column, BUT, you do NOT have to actually install them, just use them to make sure the engine RUNS. Once it all runs, THEN adapt to what you have/want to use. This way you know that the engine runs, and you don't have the problem of tracking down faults in the 47 adaptions that you just did. Don't do the adaptions until you know it runs. Cosmo
cool. i have a repair manual for this truck so ive got all the diagrams and shit. thanks for the support. this was the only way i could make my fiance happy with driving an old (new) car.
now what about all the smog stuff? can i take all that off and will the computer run ok? im just thinking if i get rid of all the smog shit, the mechanical fan, and go with a carb it would be pretty close to the same power wont it? or am i stuck with all the smog equipped stuff? im also thinking about going with a rear end out of a 79 malibu. i think its a tad bit wider and its all ready set up with 4link. so it will be an easy bag set up.
If you pull the smog stuff, the computer won't be happy. I'd try to find an early non computer controled distributor, and adapt a carb to your intake. It would make life simpler. As far as it having more or less power with the EFI vs Carb, if the carb is the right size, and set up properly, it should be close. The injector will react faster to changes than the carb, but it shouldn't be that far off, especially if it's a stock engine. Also put in a Fierro high volume oil pump, while you are swapping thing around. The bottom end on those 4 bangers need some extra tlc to live long. When I rebuilt my 85 the crank needed a regrind, 2 rods were out of round, and 2 of 4 bores were egg shaped, even though they had almost no ridge at the top. I had changed the oil at about 2500 mile intervals, and the inside of the engine was so clean you could almost eat lunch off of it, even with just under 100K on it. The only reason I pulled it apart was that the oil pump shaft snapped off, and I figured I'd go through things while I had it apart. Oh yeah, several cam lobes were cracked, and 3 valve seats were cracked too. Things got expensive in a hurry. But if yours is in good shape, hopefully you will have better luck.
Smog stuff?? This ain't like the 70's where all that stuff was added on willy-nilly. It's integrated into the whole, and works better for it. Plus, if I'm reading between the lines correctly, you want a runner sooner rather than later. Bolt it together as it is, modify it later. This way, your fianceé will be as happy as she ever will be about the "old truck"; you'll be driving it, rather than wishing you were driving it; and you can still modify it later. Thought more about how I was describing the install. Think of it this way: it's like a stereo rack system: a lot of wires between components, but just one that goes to power. And your wires are bundled to go to just one component, making it easier. I think you'll be quite happy with the power, happier with the mileage (it WILL be a lot worse with a carby, F.I. by this time ['92] had gotten quite good), and you will be spending a LOT of time with your son. Cosmo
a nother question, do i need to keep the cat. or can i straight pipe this? or what ever i can to make it sound decent.
I removed the cat on a 2.5 in a pontiac and lost some economy. I swear I lost around 4 mpg. It ran ok without it. Really didn't gain any power though. Sounds like a good swap. I'd keep the injection too. I have a '91 s-10 I drive to work, and it could be a donor in the future. Jeff
Strait pipe would sound anything but decent. I think you want to make that motor run as quiet as possible
Those S-10 2.5 have some major differencves from the car ones if I remember right. I know someone who had one that needed an engine and it had to be from an S-10, not a car. The sidewinders are alot different than the rear drives too. It's been a long time and I don't remember all the details.
Keep the cat, run it with no mufflers..... When you get the ECM out of the truck..... All the Pink wires are switched 12v and the Orange wires are 12v constant.
awesome. thanks for the input. i was thinking about going with duals with glasspacks. the guy that had it before me put on some muffler that makes it sound like half a v8. i cant stand it. so anything to make it sound less like a lawnmower. i do like the sound of inline 6's with 1 1/2 in. pipe on them. any chance of something close to that?
That's a fine looking boy you have Johnny. Must get his looks from his mom. Run the straight pipe that way if it's not fast it'll be loud as hell and you can still make a statement>>>>.
thanks. actually if you take a baby pic of me we look identicle. i hope he gets his moms build. im built like a twig...
If you really want to eliminate some of your questionable pollution control items,...unplug the from your running s10 now, and see if it still runs the same, before you do the swap. Just use the wiring from your s10. Label the shit out of everything before you remove it. Even if your not sure what it is, label...A to A, B to B, etc...Lay all your removed wiring on a sheet of plywood or a table and keep it organized until you re-install it. It's not too hard a job. Good luck.
Newbie here and I thought I'd jump in- On the exhaust note, depends on what you want it to sound like, an old rod or a lowered honda with stickers everywhere? I drove a Chevette w/a 1.6 4 banger in college and wanted a little sound out of it. I replaced the muffler w/a Honda factory type resonator (looks like a small glass pack) that would normally go between the cat and muffler in a Honda system and a Monza dual resonator tip at the back end. It still had the factory cat too. The muffler shop guy was sure it would be a loud nasty ricer sound but it sounded deep, mellow, and healthy. I'm not a fan of ricer fart pipes so I thought it sounded real good for a 4 banger. Just my .02.
^^^ that might not be too bad of an idea. anyone else ever do something like this? i either want it to sound decent ( i know its a 4 banger) or as quiet as i can get it. i dont want it to sond like a honda. i just want something that doesnt grab you and say "hey thats a 4 banger". thanks everyone for the help.
I'm trying the same swap under a 36 Ford cab. Anybody know what Chevy had the non comp controlled dist. and a carb intake?
a s10 is a light truck,i have a 52 chevy 1/2 ton and it weights 3600 pounds (with a small block) hope that 4 cylinder can handle that
Junkman-The 79-80 2.5 in chevy Monzas and other clones, had the crossflow head, HEI non-computer distributor with vacuum advance and either a 1bbl or progessive 2bbl carb. The 2bbl manifold can be easily modified to run a "normal" 2bbl. These engines also had the "standard" V8 bellhousing pattern. Some of these engines had cam gear problems so change to the best ones you can find.
yes, but you are also including the weight of the stock chassis and bed. im running quite a bit shorter bed, no running boards, half of the original roof (seriously chopped) cut down fenders, etc. so all in all i cant see this weighing a whole lot.
Firstly, sorry for not starting a newb thread, I know how much everyone hates that. I also know my truck is too new and has too much billet for me to be too useful here, but regarding the topic of s10 4cyl I can tell you its a worthwhile swap. I just kept the whole firewall and floor intact and welded the old cab to it. This way I have modern brakes, power steering, HVAC, EFI, highway gears, all coupled with 4 cyl economy. the steering will need a ujoint or two to move it outboard just a hair. by my calculations it is about 3-350 lbs lighter than the stock 98 s10 I used. Most of the weight in the old trucks is in the ladder frame and cast iron engines.
Split the exhaust after the cat and run duel straight pipes out. Will sound as good as can be. Keep the complete ECM system up and running and you will be driving it soon!
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