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Chev 235 which timing gear marks to use?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rampant150, Mar 26, 2012.

  1. rampant150
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 31

    rampant150
    Member

    FNG here. I am assembling a 1962 chev 235 and have gotten to the timing gear stage. The issue that I have is that my crank gear has two marks on it, one is a line and the other is an 'R' with two dots, and I'm not sure which is the right one.

    This picture was taken with the motor at TDC. Can someone please point me in the right direction?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Curt B
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 325

    Curt B
    Member

  3. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    I'd say that as shown in the pic, it's "off" by one tooth. I'd go with the mark that's right next to the gear tooth,...Which is the way any that I have seen are. (The other "mark" may be something from the mfg process?)

    4TTRUK
     
  4. raengines
    Joined: Nov 6, 2010
    Posts: 227

    raengines
    Member
    from pa.

    I'd degree the cam and find out if it was me
     

  5. fiddy
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 163

    fiddy
    Member

    Call patrick's auto parts, they are an alliance vender and know their way around a stovebolt.....very helpful too
     
  6. 6inarow
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,243

    6inarow
    Member

    Its a tooth off.

    But as said above be sure to DEGREE the cam. I just got done with a rebuild and the cam was cut 10*off. I GOT in a time bind so I had the machine shop assemble it. Before it was rebuilt I told them I wanted it degreed (and balanced, the whole shot) Well they lied to me about it when the damn thing wouldnt run, I took it apart and found out what was wrong.

    Dont trust the marks, and verify it
     
  7. rampant150
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 31

    rampant150
    Member

    Thanks so much for the help guys. Hooked up the good ol' dial indicator tonight and it seems both marks are wrong. I did not get the required .044" of movement on the exhaust lifter until I moved the cam mark one tooth to the right of the 'R'. With the cam mark at the R I only got .020" and at the line I only got .010".
     
  8. rampant150
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 31

    rampant150
    Member

    Does anyone have the cam specs for a 1962 235 with manual lifters?
     
  9. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    is it possible you put the gear on backwards, and the mark is actually on the other side?
     
  10. rampant150
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 31

    rampant150
    Member

    No its not, as the puller bolt holes are only on this side of the gear.
     
  11. rampant150
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 31

    rampant150
    Member

    Tried Degreeing the cam and my specs were all out of whack. Think I may have found out why. Part number on the cam is 3836386 which comes up as a hydraulic lifter camshaft. Shit.
     
  12. Curt B
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 325

    Curt B
    Member

    Make a table lamp out of that one and get yourself a solid lifter cam intended for a 261.
     
  13. rampant150
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 31

    rampant150
    Member

    Yeah, I found replacement cams on summit racing last night for $100. Not bad. Do you know of anyone that would have a stock used camshaft locally?
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2012
  14. Curt B
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 325

    Curt B
    Member

    Used...no. For a new one try Gary Automotive in Edmonton @ 780-433-1425. Many local FLAPS around the province call him when somebody asks for something that predates thier computer/catalogs.
     

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